newclear

I like it when engineer's start talking about making ABS units "do something cool" To be honest, if you put the X-Eng logo on it, whatever it does I'll want it SOOO badly! Cheers Matt

possibly the Power Steering pump on it's way out? May even be the belt slipping? Could even be a fault with the Steering Box, I doubt the Diff Lock would cause it to fail or become hard in one direction, the only thing that could happen is windup which you would know about, the truck won't move and if you force it things break. To get out of windup you usually have to reverse a few metres until the Diff Lock warning light goes out. Cheers Matt

It's a Land Rover - course they aren't . I bought a full Wipac replacement set from eBay - about £24 I think and then followed Western's train of thought and drilled holes in the bottom, as after a rain shower the lenses had a LOT of condensation inside which was beginning to pool up at the bottom. Not had a problem since I fitted them - they were the full light fitting, rubber boot and all cables. Just minus the bulb (I used the old ones). Cheers Matt2

Not all Petrol Land Rovers are V8 - there were some (not many granted, and a lot older) 2.25 and 2.5 Petrol's, or at least they are in my service manual - never "seen" one, even in pictures... I have seen 300tdi mentioned multiple times in this thread by you and others (I think, long day at work and if I'm mistaken I do appologise), sorry if your not using it - I picked up on it since I have experience with it specifically.... Nicely edited - I was trying to offer advice that the problems you could encounter are more than "internal" failures, external pumps and bearings also fail in a used engine. Not usually mentioned when people think of weaknesses in an engine. I said it becuase I did 'forget' and the costs mounted far beyond what I had budget'd for. Yes Land Rovers are road vehicles, but what I meant is, is the Engine in a VW Golf designed to cope with it being used to descend a hill? Is it designed to cope with being submerged in water? I doubt it, the 200/300tdi is a very "rough" sort of engine - hundreds of times better than the older generation of Diesels (which I replaced in my truck) but still considered "Agricultural"... Not arguing for arguments sake? When did I say you "did" say that? - I have heard friends of mine say it, along with some of my family (until I showed them pictures of lane trips I've been on with Disco's). I have to be honest I didn't even know you drove a Disco . Not every comment on this thread is a direct attack at you , easy with the defensive jabs. Cheers Matt

Any car can produce more power and usually easily and cheaply too. But for the very vast majority out there they don't. This logic simple doesn't stand. 5th Gear took a 90bhp diesel automatic Golf and fitted a nitrous kit to it. Then proceeded to race a Honda NSX, fair do in the vid the Golf lost but it kept with the NSX to about 100mph. That kit cost just over $1k to fit, but how many people do you know of that have diesel auto hatchbacks with near supercar performance credentials. It's easy, it's cheap yet few seem to do it. Hi, You seem to have totally sidestepped the point here - 5th Gear did that to a GOLF, we are stating that it's not cheap or easy to do it to a Land Rover engine, specifically a 300tdi - these engines would almost be at home in a Massey Furgeson Plowing a field in deepest Somerset. They are far from a "Street Machine" engine used to easily tune. In my time browsing forums both here and quite a few other places it comes to my attention that VERY few bother to mod TDi's - or even Land Rover petrol's. This can only be that any that have looked at it have thought, after reading around the forums that it's too much hassle and expense. This is also mostly due to around three quarters of Land Rover owners use them for off road duties, something they were designed for by Land Rover, so they rarely need anymore power for three quarters of their users. Some Challenge event goers may add an intercooler, but Nitrous Oxide is all but useless at a challenge event. Even most of those that use them exclusively on road as a commuting vehicle find a larger intercooler works well enough for normal use. You also say you can't find any evidence of Failure's on the 300tdi - sorry but have you looked? There are plenty (so many I'm not going to do the searching for you and add links) of threads about "odd sounds" and "it's broke, what parts do I need?". The Cambelt is a very famous and well known week spot - you mention cars that have done over 100000 miles and no servicing will obviuosly fail - I've read of cars that are serviced as Land Rover stated in the manual and have had the Cambelt's fail do to a DESIGN flaw in 6000 miles, which is indeed very simple to fix (new idler pulley). Water Pumps fail, power steering pumps fail, alternator's fail and even the bearings in the belt tensioner fail - nothing to do with upping the power but still a weak point. I recently swapped an old 2.5n/a Diesel for my new 300tdi (cheap... or so I thought) - I went from a nice £200 swap to an ever increasing spiral of costs due to a fail in the number 1 piston which I thankfully found before the Engine was fitted (the piston head had melted and the piston had scored the bore - rings were fine) then adding everything else I had to replace it suddenly became a £700 swap. Nothing is Land Rover's is ever straight forward, if you forget to factor in a failure or an expense... it WILL catch you out. I can indeed supply photo's of the melted piston if you would like. Not the bore however, as it has been rebored and is currently under the bonnet of my 90 (with a brand new Piston inside it). The very reason nobody has actually answered your question 100% is that basically, nobody else has tried to add a WON kit to a 300tdi, most only have one vehicle, and don't want to see it go up in a large plume of smoke. Now please do not take this as rubbishing your idea, but you seem to be suggesting that - during your 'research' - Land Rover engines will perform just as well when they are Modded as VW Engines - VW Engines are obviously designed for the road, Land Rovers are not. Before you say "300tdi's are in Discovery's - they are hardly the same as Defenders" - the same 300tdi that is in the Disco is in the Defender, and I have followed many Discovery's on laning days that will argue agianst the "Disco's are for the road" comment . I would indeed like to see your progress and see just what the 300tdi is capable of, but after working with it and seeing it in bits, I wouldn't hold out much hope if I were you. Cheers Matt

Hi, After fitting my 300tdi I had a similar water leak but it was obvious on the floor inder the truck. When I had the engine out I had replaced the P gasket and Water Pump gasket so I knew it wasn't those. Turned out to be the Thermostat housing wasn't attached to the head tight enough (barely on really ). Nipped those four bolts up and it's gone now. HTH Cheers Matt

Builders Merchants should have it or be able to get it... It's where my Dad gets it from but he does work for them Matt2

Found that website and forums earlier in the week, almost read the text off them. Surprised the text isn't burned into my Monitor . Really helped understand what it "should" look like, admittedly I have nothing to compare it to so I don't know if those welds are "perfect" but to me they look damn good. Thanks though, think I might go and have another read Cheers Matt2

Ahh yes, can see it now, quite obvious now I think... bored at work, brain not working . Do you know if that is the Diff Lock warning light? Trying to find out why my light doesn't come on... Cheers Matt

Thats fantastic! Remmembering old practise welds I had done I could never figure out why I couldn't get a solid "strip" of weld, it always went in blobs, also explains why the machine sounded so shocking, I initially thought the transformer was dead as when it was pulsing you can guess the sound it gave . At least if I can do a practise weld and show it with a long, solid strip thats got to prove things to my Dad . For thin stuff it is actually a good feature, but when trying to practise on a machine I have never used or have iny info on, it was getting frustrating.... Cheers Matt2

Is this priming just for new/recon'd Turbo's? Hope So Matt2

Is that small black cable under the Breather Tube the connection for the Diff Lock warning light? If so I'd be interested as to where that picture was taken from too... Cheers Matt

I "had" a 2.5n/a and while it was in the truck I found it fine, most of the time. Motorways were a chore but I normally took "scenic" routes to miss them. Hills also posed a problem, even the slightest incline in 5th gear dropped the speed quite quickly. I however think this was to do with the different (newer, R380) Gearbox it had fitted. While off road it was great though, plenty of "grunt". Sadly there is very little you can do to a 2.5n/a to improve the power, I would advise agianst mounting a Turbo onto it, several of the components won't last long under the strain of a Turbo. I have one of the kits off eBay to improve the Fan Speed, Speed 1 now actually does something but Speed 2 is unchanged (still sounds like a Hurricane in the Dash). Clears the screen in a few minutes now, instead of 25. For the size of the truck and the fact it has no insulation or sound deadening, it certainly heats up quick inside... P.S - I am in the process of fitting a 300tdi into my truck, missing out motorways all the time was eating my fuel. Green Laning in Derbyshire, which is all hills, just got too much - dropping to 1st on a hill made me decide . Cheers Matt2

Had another look last night while taking pictures, got the name of the unit wrong. It's "MigMatic 160" not "MigMate 160" . How do I go about trying to "educate" my Dad on welder settings? He usually ONLY changes the power for any steel he welds. I also don't think the other settings that he never touches are right, whats the best way for this, so far I've tried the "I read that...." and it got met with "well it's worked for me for years, when you can weld you can tell me how to" . Suppose I best get practising eh? . He started out Stick Welding, so I think the MIG settings are confusing, remmember how angry he got when he thought I had messed with the settings, apparently it took him 4 hours to get it "right" . What would that do/why would it be used? Looking at the pictures the symbol below the left control could be related to that.... Anyway - the pictures: Front Panel Full: Controls Close (sorry about flash glare): Info Panel: Cheers Matt2

I have the same wheels which "looked" the same. I stripped them back with "Nitromors", cleaned them off, then did a final buff with a wire brush and drill combo. Sprayed it with 2pack hi build primer, then once that was dried just painted it with a top coat of normal 2pack Car Paint (Jaguar Classic White - My Uncle had some spare ). Left them to dry overnight and job done. Only put on one coat, but so far thats survived 2 green lane trips (one with many large boulders and rocks clanging away on them, no chips) Truck looks 100% better now, wheels really finish off the look. Since I can't really afford to fit a new engine AND buy new wheels, I decided to go the restore route. Cheers Matt2

You get 70 on the motorway with a 2.5na?! Mine could get 70, but it was certainly not comfortable and would barely "sit" there. Hence why it's now got/getting a 300tdi fitted My Transfer Box selector was really stiff when I got my truck (due to lack of use I'd guess), I couldn't get it into anything at one point, stuck in Neutral . I took off the Rubber gaitor and then the secondary rubber gaitor on the Transfer Selector, liberally lubricated the internal linkage and linkage shaft, which were dry and also covered the external part of the linkage in WD40. Be careful if you use WD40 for the internal linkage part as you'll be sraying into a hole, watch out for blowback. After some "negotiations" from me it started to free up, worked flawlessly ever since Cheers Matt2

Hi all, I was trying to find a thread where I could just tag this on the end, but sadly there doesn't seem to be one. My Dad has a Welder that he has sort of "allowed me access to" so I can practise and learn to Weld, I'll be buying any parts it needs so it's win win for him. The only trouble is the Welder I "have" is quite old, it's one my Dad got given (or got cheaply, can't recall, I was about 13 when he got it - I'm now 24) and has a limited amount of information with it. When I say "Limited" I mean - nothing, none, zero zip . I will post a picture of the control panel when I get in from Work. When I had a short course when at College (even this was a good 5 years ago) I only learnt on a Welder that had 2 adjusters, Power and Wire Speed.... this one has 3, I only know for sure which is the Power selector. Would wire Tension be on the front control panel? Thought they were usually inside with the wire drum? I was sort of hoping (with use of the up coming picture) someone might be able to shed some light on what each Selector does. I have only so far hooked up all the cables and tried on some scrap Steel sheet, the results aren't all that great, and I could be here a while trying to test each setting, while I don't mind buying more wire, there is still a finite amount of it (I'm not made of money heh). I still (just) recall the principal of welding, and what settings effect what, but I don't know how to change those settings . Cheers Matt2

Thats exactly why I do it, every so often I'm surprised and quite happy when someone does wave back, sort of makes my day Matt2

It's not, it's showroom clean.... Oh, you mean the Land Rover.... Coat - Door...

I see what you mean, I guess it could indeed be seen that way. Lets hope most people won't see it as "gas guzzlers driving 500 metres to buy the paper" . "We're encouraging people to get out of their cars to see Britain at its best by foot." I like seeing Britain at it's best from the driver seat in my 90 , sort of more annoyed that it's decided that it's best to see Britain on foot, why? I can see just as much, if not more in the Land Rover than I can on foot (I'm higher up ). Sadly I am able to see less and less from my Land Rover if the trend with Rights of Way continues as it is Matt2

That is indeed a lot of cash for a Ball joint.... . Could someone explain how a ball joint can be anything special? Surely a Land Rover ball joint is as good as that? Don't really even understand the Adjustable ones.... Probably as I only greenlane , doesn't really require anything overly extreme. Cheers Matt2

I wave at anything with an Oval Badge.... Unless I can see from a distance they are Ladies, I have found they just look at you funny Think the best I had was actually from a Blue 110, the entire vehicle waved like mad and flashed the lights.... so I thought what the hell, and did the same back , any onlookers must have thought something was wrong Matt2

Welcome to the Forum, not been here long but have had a HUGE amount of help. Although I am doing a 300tdi Disco into a 90... similar The Tech Archive is indeed a marvel of the modern day Sorry to jump in, but why so Western? Every time I've used the rubber hangers there has never been a problem, I came to remove the old 2.5n/a exhaust and two of the fixing bolts sheared (Plenty of WD40 and I even cleaned them up first). Since there are no bolts the rubber hangers just need replacing... IF there's anything wrong. Or am I missing a glaringly obvious flaw? Cheers Matt

Hi, I found a guy on eBay who sells all sorts of Silicone and Alloy pipes, he does a set for the 300tdi, used his silicone pipes before and they seem good quality. Had some on a Mazda for around a year now and they still look like the day I mounted them. http://stores.ebay.co.uk/REGALS-Motorsport Ignore the rather Boyracer style of his eBay shop though Paddocks also do a kit for the 300tdi, both "kits" seem to consist of Top hose, one 90 degree bend and a short coupler, all 2 inch diameter. Cheers Matt2

That really is a lovely bit of fabrication, Polished or not Matt2