newclear

Might as well throw this in the same Oil related thread, R380 ATF only? Matt

I "fill" mine and it shows 3/4's, then it never moves below 1/4, tried to change the sender twice but never alters it... all started being this bad after I swapped the Fuel Tank Might try a Gauge swap, nearly run out of fuel twice now, wondering if that flicker of the fuel light is the sender being dodgy or if it really is low is becoming annoying . Cheers Matt

Hi all, After having read the Tech Archive thread about how to swap over the cases, I have a "quick" question. Which Gearbox is better? LT77 or R380? Will be using the Truck for mostly Pay and Play and Laning, need to use it on the road so it will never be a Challenge Truck. Engine is a 300tdi if it makes any difference. The truck already has an R380 in it, all seems to work fine bar not always selecting Reverse first time and a very slight crunch into second from first if rushed. The "new" Transfer case has come from a Discovery (with 1.22:1 ratio) but it also has a LT77 attached. Would it be worth trying to swap over the Gearboxes too? Is it even possible to modify a Discovery LT77 for a 90/Defender (as the selectors are in a different place)? While I have the "new" Transfer case on the garage floor, what parts would it be an idea to change, is it just the Input Gear and seals? How would I know if the Input Gear is already cross drilled? Is it just a matter of remove it and find out? Are the Seals for both the R380 output and Transfer Box simple or is it more involved than "hook out and press back in new"? Sorry about all the questions, like to be as informed as I can be when I undertake a job such as this - Knew the LT230 was heavy, never knew it was quite "that" heavy though (could be to do with the LT77 being attached) Cheers Matt

For the Temp sensor/Gauge: I had the same problem, coming from 2.5n/a to 300tdi, but. I bought a Defender 300tdi Temp Gauge and a Defender 300tdi Temp Sender, mounted them all where they should be and connected them up. My Temp gauge now reads correctly, trying to use Discovery Sender and Defender gauge sent the gauge a bit wrong (read half way up the gauge after the truck had been stood overnight and I had just turned the ign. on). Likewise, trying to use the old 2.5n/a gauge with the Disco 300tdi Sender worked to an extent, but "Working" temperature was halfway into the red . Been working fine for around 2 weeks now. Hope that Helps Cheers Matt

Hi all, I have just got home from work (Mid Shift break), about 200 yards after I left work I heard a very strange noise coming from the rear of the truck, like a drumming noise and it seemed to fill the entire passenger side of the car. The noise came after I negotiated a Round-A-Bout. After I drove another 50 yards or so from the roundabout it stopped. On I went, the next roundabout I came to the truck felt very strange indeed, almost like the rear axle had lost all it's mountings and was having a small dance under the back end. The noise returned on and off. Anyway I was only another mile or so from home so I gently coaxed the truck home. On my drive at 2:30am I got the torch out and checked the rear axle, to my puzzlement yet relief all the links were still present and secure. So I tried grabbing each wheel at 9 and 3 and giving them a firm shake. When I did this to the rear Passengers there was a lot of movement yet I couldn't see where at first. Then I noticed all, not one, but all 5 nuts were about 2 turns from coming off. Initially I thought "you idiot, can't believe you have never checked them, that could have been very bad" (slightly edited so I could print it here ), but now I'm inside out of the cold with some food in me, I know I checked them just last weekend when I was out Marshalling at Tong. This strange movement didn't happen when I was going to work either 7 hours previously, so I then thought of foul play by some local youths, but my Work's carpark is fully fenced in and security controlled. I was trying to figure it out and I wondered if there is ever any likelihood that this could be "normal" (long shot) or occurred before?. I bought the truck with and it still has White 8 Spoke steel wheels with Insa Turbo Dakar's on if that makes any difference. I could imagine maybe one nut coming adrift, but it's usually quite slowly and I would have thought never all 5.... Cheers Matt

From my (read: My Dads and mine) experience I have noticed that 9/10 times, Red Oxide is only any good as an undercoat to chassis paint or similar, that you apply with a brush, heavy Corrosion possible area's. If the paint you have is Cellulose I wouldn't use Red Oxide primer, as mentioned it may work but if it doesn't thats a mighty big mess, the top coat will react with the primer and sort of, bubble off. And if this is on a large flat surface the paint will then just slide off the primer. Also seen this happen when Cellulose is sprayed onto Hammerite paint. Best to carefully prepare the truck first, the use Cellulose primer, or Hi-Build. You can usually get it in a colour to suit your top coat but I (we) normally just use a very light green primer. If you already have the Red Oxide, test it on some scrap metal. Mix some top coat up and brush on the red oxide, let it dry and then brush on the top coat in as thin a layer as you can. If there is no sign of problems, crack on. Cheers Matt

The TDS is called a "Goldfish" for just that occurence, with a little patience, the guide from the TDS website and some RTV Sealant you can sort the winch so it will run under water/mud as long as you need it to. I was planing on doing these very mods when I eventually get mine, as it will probably/possibly be a while before it gets mounted on the truck finally. Mine will only get light use, maybe the odd use at Hillclimb events and Pay&Play so I just can't justify the 8274's of the market. Cheers Matt

Mine came in the post last week, watched a bit of the HOFS DVD but never got round to the Russian one, thats for another night when I've got a bit more time . Very nicely put together with some great editing. I was worried initially as I thought the music would be over the top all the way through, drowning out the sound of Mouse. Thankfully the music stopped just at the right place. I remmember reading the Thread and watching mouse come together, really impressive whatching it come out of the garage, had a few of those moments myself (nothing on the scale of Mouse though... just the odd MGB). Some seriously impressive fabrication skills on show. Looking forward to getting some time to myself so I can watch the rest of the HOFS DVD and the Russian version too, picture paints etc . Thanks a lot for putting them together, can't wait for the next one . Cheers Matt

I have recently had the very same decision to make. I havent saved enough to buy the winch yet, but I have decided on the TDS for the numerous value for money reasons mentioned above. Cheers Matt

First time at Tong and what a site, really enjoyed the day. Just like to say thanks to all the competitors for making the event really enjoyable, as only my second Howling Wolf marshalling experience I found it even easier and a lot more fun than Kirton. Some excellent driving from all, witnessed some very technical winch usage that impressed me quite a lot, sure it's quite commonplace for most of the regulars though . Think it's safe to say I am now totally hooked on this, can't wait for the next one that I can attend... might be a while sadly . Cheers Matt

Clicking the link works fine for me . Spend quite a lot of time on that website dreaming . Side note David, there's a rather amusing typo on the Hydro Assist page. "Not recommended for hoghway use." - You may have been told previously, appologies if you have just wanted to bring it to your attention. Just need to get my car sold and I can give the Debit Card a Hammering... I mean.... carefully select mods that will improve my Land Rover . Cheers Matt

Done, Done and Done. Regards, Matt P.S - How many are left now agian? Didn't quite catch it

As long as you take your time and prepare everything well it's not a hard job, even I managed it . I found Seal on window first helped, also don't try it on your own, having a helper is a big plus (as you might expect). I used some string in the grove first, pushed the window into the frame with a trusty helper and broom. With pressure on the window I carefully removed the string. Once you get to 3/4 of the string removed the window almost "pops" into place, not had any leaks yet either so I'm happy (been about 4 months since I replaced the Seal). Cheers Matt

Hi all, Didn't see any point in starting a new thread, since I think mine and Guppy's problem is the same? Recently my RHS Brake light stopped working, did the usual checks of Earth and Bulb checks. After some investigation it seems that the entire rear end has been either replaced or removed/remounted. Plus while investigating why the RHS was out, the LHS stopped working too. Sadly whoever has performed this didn't think the use of a Wiring Diagram was useful or neccassary . Looking at the Spider's Nest behind the rear light panels brings a deep seated fear in me, Electrics I don't mind, but when they have been messed with to this extent I worry a lot... Even though the lights seems to be connected through "right" (wrong coloured wires, but uniformly wrong) I can't see a reason why the Brake lights have stopped working. Anyone know of any strange quirks with the 90 wiring at the rear? Sort of know the answer here but could it be a short further inside the chassis somewhere? Is this a "usual" problem? Really could do without having to replace all the wiring at the back (which it looks like I could need to do ). I need around 2 days to sit down with the Wiring Diagram and a multimeter, sadly I don't have 2 days as I'm marshalling a Challenge event this weekend (or should be). Doubt driving without Brake lights would be looked at kindly by.. well... anyone.. including me . If I am going to replace any of the rear wiring, could someone reccomend a place to get connectors from? I looked at RS-Components but I saw another one on this forum but can't remmember it? Cheers Matt2

At the same time you can also adjust the steering box - Allen/Hex key and 19mm Spanner on the top of the box (in the centre). This is on a 4 bolt steering box, guess its the same for them all (you can tell what yours is by how many bolts hold on the top plate - its the plate with the bleed nipple on it). Slacken the locking nut, then tighten the centre pin with the Allen/Hex key. Literally just done that this morning and took out around 5cm of play. Don't go mental tight with the centre pin, and check to make sure the steering doesn't get over heavy at both locks. If it gets very heavy or won't even go to the full lock, slacken off the centre pin slightly. Cheers Matt

Thanks Rog, I was more after a bit of a general "idea" - I know there is no way if I just go straight for the length Mad removed it will work fine. I was looking for about how much is "usually" taken off, as I didn't want to get to like 10cm removed (for example, need to do a lot ore than that to fix my problem) and be thinking I was taking off too much. The more I look into it the more I'm understanding its more of a "you take off as much as it needs, there is no too much" Thanks Steve - I got that impression as soon as the meter indicated it, thus the reason I turned off the unit and stopped Cheers for the help, Matt

Believe me I didn't (read the How to on SWR linked above, as soon as I got the reading I stopped and turned off the Unit). Good job I have a week off work, hopefully it should be quite obvious when I start to look at it and investigate. Just sort of needed a confirmation that 9 was certainly as bad as I thought Cheers Matt

I take it a reading of 9 ish (in the red) is a bad thing? Think I have some sort of serious issue with the Aerial maybe? Or is it more the fact I have it near my (mostly steel constructed) Snorkel? Already created my heavy gauge earth strap to the Fusebox Earth point, didn't seem to help much if at all... Mad: How long did your aerial end up? Currently mine is around 80cm plus the spring etc. just wondering if the length needed to be a LOT shorter? Cheers Matt

Looking at how much steel and fabrication is involved thats not a bad price really. If I had a trayback, and if I needed a winch mount for it - that would be high on my possibles list. I can weld and bend steel (eventually), but that takes out a lot of the aggro of making it, especially if I made a mess then had to start agian (which I would ) Cheers Matt

Until an adult comes by, As the crack is right the way across it's usually classed as "not safe", those cracks are likely to spread, could be gradual over a few days or it could be very sudden and catastrophic. I know I wouldn't be all that partial to fragments of glass coming at me while trying to drive at 40mph . They may be understanding Police but that might be pushing it? It may not obscure your view but how structurally sound is the glass now? Each little bump may indeed end up being the bump that shatters the glass totally. Hopefully that is the type of glass that doesnt just break up when it fails, and it has the plastic reinforcement that hold it together. If it doesn't have the plastic... you only have one pair of eyes... Matt

Looking at Google, seems the url is "www.clubelandrover.com.br", is that right cbe? Can't see anything wrong with the Domain name, but I can't see the website at work, crashes IExplorer everytime - crappy work PC's (don't think these have the language packs installed or working if they are). Matt

After having a 2.5D, I can fully understand your pain, but at least you don't smell awful after every Fuel Station stop Best thing I ever did fitting the 300tdi, still have the smell, but at least now I have "some" performance to allow me to actually drive up hills Cheers Matt

Hi there, From just outside Sheffield myself, in fact closer to Rotherham, drive a Land Rover 90 converted to 300tdi . Might see you around, what colour is it? Cheers Matt

Learn something new everyday on here At a guess the modern TD5 will probably have a Modern fuel gauge. Noticed my Dad Audi stays at the current level when the engine is cranked. That is also hooked up to an ECU and in Dash Computer (range, MPG etc) so I wonder if due to my older Truck gauge being fed by a simple electrical connection to a sender, this is possibly why it drops and the newer TD5's don't? Newer gauges seem to have a sort of "electronic stabiliser" of sorts, mine just reports what is going on at the sender, if I hit a bump, it flies around the gauge. Never seen that happen to newer gauges... Matt

My '86 90 does exactly the same, most cars do that. My '98 Mazda 323 does a similar thing and turns off everything when I crank the engine, this includes the radio etc. The only time it wouldn't is if you wired a feed direct from the battery, even then the voltage going to it would drop when you cranked the engine, probably to a point where the gauge wouldn't function, i.e the exact same symptom you are getting now (hence a pointless modification). Cheers Matt