xychix

I had an old carpet under mine. but that made only more mess. As my car is standing still for monts i park it in the garage, wait 1 night and throw a shovel of sand on the spots that already have fresh oil to catch the rest.

I had one of my FWH's filled with gunk (sealant) because it apparently broke on the pre-previous owners trip and was filled to keep in engaged. Other one was just fine. I found a good an cheap solution: http://www.paddockspares.com/571711-drive-flange-24-spline.html

Tim_NZ you shouldn't be posting in this thread. Get a build thread (or dit i miss it???) and post all pictures you have. You realise this is like porn for all that try and keep their series on the road?!? To bad it ain't a 109

Nice, now google for a while to learn how to measure bearrings or find a site that lists the land rover bearings for me

I Guess I'll go with the NTN bearings from: http://www.land-rover-parts-shop.com/en/ui/search.php?q=RTC3426G&stp=s http://www.land-rover-parts-shop.com/en/ui/search.php?q=RTC3416G&stp=s the biggest difference seems that these are fixed in their race (or how is that outer layer the bearings roll in called?)

I guess I have some Haynes Land Rover restauration manual. But as I got to removing the stubaxles alrealdy while placing my zeus brake kit I guess the 2 balljoints and removing the halfshaft aren't gonna kill me Will have a look in the manuals to see what they say about the shims. Will make a decent shoppinglist for this summer. For now, I;ve just driver ~5KMs testing my zeus brakes and they are awesome! it stops!!! Big thanks to anyone on here for advice, tips and the humor needed to just keep going! My next job is more custom. As the seat box under the seats is cut up for placing 2 extra diesel tanks the seat is easy reachable for mice from under the vehicle... and they did! They've enjoyed my old seats so much I decided to leave the new ones in the box till I got this sorted. Today I managed to cut and pop some sheets of galvanized steel (~0.6mm thin) to size and mounted 1 side. Unfortunately I don't have the option of getting 'sheets' of landrover aluminium at a good price here in France.

Yups, my 109 Station (9 seater) had the rear seats removed but had the fold down seats all the way in the back. A roofrack, safari roof, 2 spares (bonnet and rear door) and 3 diesel tanks (under each seat and the original in the tank). And it comes with 100+ bills from 1980 (first service) up to 1998. then it stops. By then it was likely in the south of France. I bet it has seen the world the clock says 70K, more likely 170, 270 or 370.

It appears the webshops I try for a set of good bearings all ar out of stock / no longer available. I'm after a set (or 3 if they are this hard to come by) RTC3416 and RTC3426 (<1980 hub bearings). not available at: johncraddockltd, paddocks, and-rover-parts-shop.com and several dutch parties I checked. As it needs to be send to the Netherlands I always prefer to buy at a 'bigger' web shop so I can properly fill my box before having it send. Any hints on where to look?

something like this was done to my series, made me curse a little when I arrived here in france with a box of spares including 'default' filter stuff.. Found a dealer and bought 5 oil filters just to get it over with for a while Now the screw on is convenient I'd have to admit.

Yeah I do get that. Unlikely the previous user actually engaged the hubs for years and years. Also I now suspect that my 109 (which was a noth african travel vehicle given by the books and bills that came with the car) once hit something solid on the left front given given that all bad/broken parts seem to be on that side. Also the rear connection of the left front leafspring to the chassis is dented (dent in the side of the chassis). For now I'll go with quick fixes and make a decent shoppinglist as I go. Need to get atleast a few driving km's to keep me going and will dig back in next summer. Good news, managed to gather all bad parts on the right side, so the left side (front and rear) should be mint. Maybe I should learn to drive on 2 wheels. And offcourse I can't wait to feel the disk conversion combined with my Hella UP28 electric vacuum. (all piping and vacuum tank original just the hose of the engine inlet to the pump which is operated on the brakelight.

additional info, the play appears to be on the TOP of the swivel... so it might be a 'quick fix' for now. And prostpone the full overhaul a bit.

Bye the way, does any one have a good exploded view of the swivel + hub? there is a gasket between the swivelball and the stubaxle obviously... but is there also one (the same) between stubaxle and the back of the braking plate??? I'm affraid there should be as the bolts holding the backplate of the brake in place seem to go all the way into the swivelball (why the ## is that, just seems another 6 ways to get oil in the brakes...)

If this doesn't solve it I'll have to get everything off again to get a new bearing on the inside I assume..

The car HAD freewheeling hubs. I threw them off as one was seized in locked state, the other was still freewheeling.I assume this was the working side which means this halfshaft has seen next to no movement. Just watched this vid that I guess explains most. I just dont have a good gauge to 'know' what to take out. can 'just take a few out' and give that a try?

After removing hub, brakes and brake back plate I mounted my Zeus disc kit and reassembled it all with new seals, the best bearrings I had, new greas in the swivel housing and so on. After mounting the wheel I though I had a badly seated bearing as I had some play up and down on the wheel, having someone else make the movement while I was under the vehicle I discovered the outer-part of the swivel is moving with the wheel while the part attached to the axle stays in place. Did double check the inner hubnut was tight as it should be (~60nm + 90 degrees back). Couldn't really think of a nut I left on to loose.... any ideas? is that what causes the 'wobble of death'? I don't mind puling it ALL off again if I could just drive those 50 miles atleast once a year..... GRRRRRR.

right on to it. I've got my SIII 109 in France near our holiday house. Most of the time I'm working with my wife on the house (she rocks!) but when the stuff is getting to boring SIII is my excuse project, need to so something there as well. After 2 years I drove for ~10 km's only to set my rear brakepads almost on fire.... no blocking brakes but enough gunk and oil to get way to hot. reasons to draw the SIII card: - scratching sand out of the walls preparing them for proper joints - woodwork - painting Luckily my wife keeps on going like a real monk and slowly but steadily gets it all done. (I know it's not in fashion to say your wife is awesome but this one really is!)

turning? Its attached to the driveshaft right? How does that work? You start unleashing your mega powers on the handbrake and it keeps turning, half an hour later you're in your neighbours veggies?? If the issue is that the shaft is free turning there's likely something you can do to block the wheels?? Shock wrench (air or electric) might help.

hahaha, You still working on the orange series hybrid? Thought you'd do the wireing on a sunday evening while watching a movie!!?? that's not an excuses for not having it on the road yet Same here, wanted to install the Zeus disc conversion that was here on the shelve for over a year. It appeared to have calipers made for jaguar not landrover.... The folks at zeus did send me a new kit straight away with a lot of apoligies (even though the buy itself took place over a year ago!!!) * that's what I call service !! * now got 1 side mounted. As my rear brakes almost catched fire due to carp and oil in the brakes I also got these hubs dismantled and for the better. I though I had all parts. Appears the front bearrings are BAD (rear where fine) even the front hub driving member (the piece the wheelstuds go in.) appears be to abuses BAD by a previous engineer... chipped bad on the edge where the seal sits... repaired that a bit with the dremel and took bits from the back to get a mint front but. left rear will be put together with all the crappy parts and redone later. Chassis welding is obviously finished and wiring to the back + all lights are brand new. Some hinges to replace.... And as usually a ton of other work on the house / my daily job. Ah, and I did buy a radiator as well as I was in a spending mood, let's hope it IS the fix for my summertime overheading 2.25di. haha looking at the names here we can almost start a Dutch chapter, however without the overseas humor and knowledge... where would be be?

Hi Arjan, for a 200(t)di you can sleep in my shipping container And yup. I've bought my 109 for 3000eur, put atleast a 500+500+700 in interiour, wheels (not tyres), discbrakes. Easily another 1000 on random stuff: hinges, seals, cooling, clutch stuff, bushes etc. And it still isn't driving Hoping to get it driving soon tough (with original block and gearboxes)

I had these on my LR109 when i bought it. One side had been seized in the past and was filled sith gunk / seal / whetever to keep it engaged. The other side was nog removable as al the bolt heads where messedup. I had to break it off and bought cheap standaard drive flange and and caps in stead. best 'un mod' ever

ah yeah that makes sense, I'll stick with 6" then

hmmm I measure just over 16cm from outer edge to outer edge, which converts to 6.29" on the older rims. However the wolf ones I ordere are clearly wider! I'd guess they should be 6" then?

keep it coming for sure. Love all the smart design choices to make things work. I guess biggest reason not to respond with short responds like 'wow cool' or 'keep up the good work' Is that 9 of these responses would mean there is only 1 (or less) informational post per page, making reading more effort for all the others interested in the project.

I just swapped to 16" 6.5 Wolfrims and these are 'clearly' wider than my previous original series III 109 station sahara rims. can measure tomorow.

http://hellahd.com/index.php/default/electrics/universal-electric-vacuum-pumps/electrics-product-11/ That's the one I've found in the breakers from some Volvo (forgot the model) The good thing is that a simple mount is sufficient (i've mounted it just above the oil-level stick. I believe that was the place for the wiper fluids bottle. But that wasn't functional on my car. There is no connections other then to the vacuum hose and electrics to the brake pedal switch. At the moment I have my vacuum tank still in place, however if the pump is delivering enough vacuum fsat it might even work better without tank... I simply pulled the hose from the butterfly and connected it to the electric pump. Thereafter closing of the butterfly hole with some simple stuff in order to avoid the intake of junk.