xychix

left fueltank is leaking for sure (can push my fingers in) right one looked ok) What would the miles per gallon be on such a vehichle? What would an acceptable driving speed be? I'm not so keen on gasoline, and if its for sale on behalf of the owner it's likely still having a pricetag...

ok, I don't want to go looking for parts. I want to get it on the road, if needed with mad max repairs. I can weld, I can hammer sheetmetal into shape (if not to round). So I'd be able to patch the bulkhead on the go. I can't weld TIG (yet) and have never welded aluminium. I've got a crappy FERM mig welder + 0.6mm wire and 20liter bottle and a 5-40A Arc Welding kit, invertor also .. thereby not suitable for alu. Basically I was hoping for a good drivetrain (engine, gears, diffs etc.) and patch up the rest. Maybe fit some new springleaves (noticed the ones on the back are messed up) maybe even from another vehicly be just welding a new mount on the already 'to be improved' chassis. However.... I've got 0 experience with gasoline vehicles. I'm more happy with diesel. If compression + fuel + air it will do BOOM.

France Telecom has fixed my broken phoneline!!! I will upload pictures within 2 hours! pictures posted below. This thread just got a lot heavier

bullocks, the engine seems the same as on this thread: http://www.oldclassiccar.co.uk/forum/phpbb/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=85163&sid=95a3ba9ba0830da1dfadc5d9c544edf8 Since this is a nicely cleaned enginebay I assume the engine isn't the diesel engine..... The car is ex-army. Dit some country order series III lightweight (1/2 ton) with hardtop and gasoline engines? of is it completely modifies (which makes it even more carp)

The french tech terms help now I know what to ask for. I was planning to ask if it had CT (controle technique, like MOT) but that seems very unlikely. Additionally I was planning to ask for papers to get it back on the road. That should be the Card Grise, also good to know that Card Grise Collection means trouble

ok that helps I'll go there and check papers. I'll offer max 300 if: - it can drive - it has Cart Grise I'm not going to buy it to scrap or split it up. Id park it in a corner and practise my welding skills for a few years. Hoping that one day I'll get a Controle Technique on it and it becomes road legal again.

I've seen an ex army series III LIght Weight (it says 1/2 tonne) which is completely rotten to the bone. Most of the chassis is rotten (holes you can stick your hand in) and the chassis has a thick coating (read: Likely way more holes than can be seen with bare eye). Floor is so rotten you can see the road trough the footwells. all wiring looks molten (shorted??) it's at a dodgy dealer for 'fair offer', it's been there for a while, it's in a poor area in france where the series III likely is abused as tractor. I wouldn't be supprised if it starts and drives..... What would be a fair offer? I was considering to start at 150 Euro's and max at 300 Euro's if the engine can be started and it drives. That would mean I'd have to weld a lot over the next 5 years but I wouldn't have to look for rare parts on the engine/drive train. If I offer 300 Euro's would the salesman hit me with a hammer because I insult this historical vehicle or is it more likely he's happy form someone to take the load of rotten @#$% from his driveway. As a restauration project it's a crazy action. What would such a car be worth if one sells all seperate parts? series III 1/2 tonne army hardtop series III 1/2 tonne army removable doors some non turbo perkins diesel. 5 series III wheels. Would that price alone be above my 300 offer or are these parts plenty on the market?

uhm, from a non-owner... are fuel return lines air free? That tends to give exactly this problem at a Ford Transit 2.5Di. Note that this is something else as fuel bleeding to the injectors. Transit had an issue with fuel return from front back over the cilinders while the most front cilinder was highest. Air bubble could live and stay there causing hard starting/no starting issues

I was hoping to trash my old ford transit (mk5 year 2000, 2.5di) for a few years as the van costs next to nothing to drive and maintain. However it seems parking rules in Amsterdam are changing. If i'd wanted a pre 2005 diesel I'd better get it before 06-2014. My long wish was a Defender 130. If I buy a 1996 Defender 130 with an old (550 KM) td300 in it. Would it be possible to upgrade lateron to a TD5, or even the newest 2.2 TDi? I've always assumed defenders stayed the same (apart from some wiring and hoses. Other option I have is to spend way more and buy a 2004 / 2005 TD5 130. Second question: If one replaces the chassis, would the van get a new chassis number (or VIN) and a new licence plate? is it essentially a new car then? reason I'm asking: In Holland I've got to pay way more tax (bijtelling) on a compagny car that is used for private/family driving. The rules on that changed after 06-2005.

awesome!

So the hole for the EGR valve finally gets a meaning :) I knew it was where for a good reason.....

A sensor in the clutch? what for!? Should I be aiming to buy a 300tdi instead of a td5? Or does that also have al those weird problems and sensors.

affordable trackers that will send message to GSM http://dx.com/s/gps+tracker my experience with dx.com is quite good, products aren't super quality but prices are low and most of the stuff does work. one might experiment with this one: http://dx.com/p/gt-02-mini-portable-dual-mode-waterproof-vehicle-gps-positioning-tracker-black-201840 http://dx.com/p/goome-gm901-gps-gsm-gps-anti-tamper-alarm-car-motorcycle-positioning-tracker-red-black-222880 might be nice as well, including engine cutoff relay signal.

When sealing I'd use welding sealant, that appears to be ideal to apply, long lasting, anti corrosion (if applied to dry surface) overpaintable, sort of flexible.

http://fordtransit.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=124290&hilit=adding+2+stroke+to+diesel the transit guys do drive with 2-stroke as well. Appearanty cheap ass (mineral) red color oil is preferred. (might be in the topic I just linked to or in one of the many others). I've driven my 2.5di transit with 200:1 mixture and it was smoother and quiter. I tend to do it on the last tanks before i'm going to service and change filters anyway (3 tank a year, in summer likely, as I service in October).

On the transit forum quite a few have tried (me included) and are happy with it (me included). I tend to run a few tanks of diesel at 1:200 before changing the fuel filter. Effectively running with 2-stroke oil in the summer and to maintainance in Oktober.

It's clearly the weight that does the damage! I'm still trying to get my wallet and wife to the point to buy a Defender 130, atm. driving a Ford Transit mk5 2.5di (year 1999). I was hit on the highway by a Fiat Uno at ~ 65 km/h (~40 Mph). A devestating blow, fiat leaked fluids everywhere, smoking ... completely trashed. Transit had a firm dent in the bumper that was straightened by abusing a heavy steel hammer. Good luck fixing this unfortunate event, and lucky the protective bumper and bull bar where doing their job or you'd likely have to fetch a new hood, radiator and g#d knows what more.

http://www.4x4cb.com/public/item.cfm?itemID=753 here is the working link that the topicstarter wanted to post

A good welder is nice! I've welded with some nice rigs. One can weld all forms and long lines. After that I bought a Ferm MIG 1000, over 10 years old but never used for 60 Euro,s After making sure the thing worked I bought a 10L gas bottle with it and switched to 0.6mm wire for welding on my transit. the wirefeed isn't smooth so it welds like carp, but with some practice I've welded up my transit and got it trough MOT. conclusion, If you want a car that looks like new after the job, get a friggin nice welder, If you need to get the job done any gas-mig welder (some even go with flux core) will do the job, just takes more practice and cursing.

You'll likely only need that on very soft surface where (most) wheels spin free. In that case it shouldn't matter. However on paved roads the vehicle would try and pull itself apart if the bigger wheels are on front, or make itself a shorter wheelbase if bigger wheels are on the rear. (however I doubt this should be used as a technique to transform a 110 to a 130 or 90 )

If ur in Uk try and get your hands on a Ford Transit MK5 2.5di 'banana' engine. (preferrably with a mechanics bosch pump) They are noisy, slow but unbreakable and cost next to nothing. If you suddenly win the lottery they are totaly happy with a turbo and a twist on the fuel pump. (and maybe onther injectors.)

sturdier diodes might not be like the ones you solder on a board but like: If you can't find it disconnect the wires and see if you can send voltage (any, 9v small battery will do) in the opposite way. continue down until you have a flow, just above that is the diode :)

I assume you already have a webasto in it? If not so, that might make a great update

I've owned a Kia Sorento with a Automatic 4x4 system. With difference in tyre size (even same brand, same size but more worn) the car whould damage the gearbox. Would it matter if you drove the defender 4x4 box on paved road with some tyredifference?