Andrew Chua

the transponder coil ring? working? with the factory alarm, it sets the immobiliser in about 10sec once you stop the engine and open the door or in 5 minutes once you stop the engine and don't open the door. If you have access to the programming of the 10AS you can disable this option called 'passive immobilise' When passive immobilised, the alarm doesn't sound when you open the doors or when you try to start the car without the fob. it will just flash the immobilise light on the dash which you are seeing. hence, it's the transponder ring that i'm asking about. if you try to start the truck when the 10as has enabled passive immobilise, it will send out an frequency (using the transponder ring) to 'excite' the fob to transmit the rolling code. if the code is received, it disables the immobiliser and allows the engine to be started. if you do not have the ring (or ring not working), it cannot send the RF to excite the fob, so it doesn't get the rolling code so the engine (10AS unit) must be manually de-immobilised before it can be started.

you need the hi/lo switch housing for the t-box. They are swap around easily. nothing difficult. i've fitted a disco box from a vehicle 10yrs older than mine. initially was stumped by the hilo switch. so in the end, i decided to move the housing from the original box to the disco box. by default it should be in hi range. when you put the t-box into low, it closes the switch. this deactivates Fast Throttle Control from the ECU. The rest is the same for the diff lock switch. it's just replug everything in. The diff lock switch is quite easy to go bonkers, so it's best to fit a new switch as it's not much of a cost, rather than having to crawl around to check.

The original Td5 tacho cost a whole lot of $$. for that price, i bought a nanocom and run it as a board instrument. along side i can also use it to query the engine. all works well for me. it will show you 4 things when running in instrument mode : engine rpm turbo pressure coolant temp battery voltage not to mention it also shows you a little red light when the coolant goes over 95 deg and beeps when it's over 100. so my take is don't bother with getting the Td5 tacho fitted, just plug in a nanocom.

According to AULRO, you can't use the cruise control in 5th gear. It will work in 4th. The reason is, that the pulse / sec being generated from the t-box transducer doesn't match the range of pulses for the given road speed. That being said, i've seen a box made by some company that will intercept the incoming pulse and then cheat the ECU by multiplying the pulse so that it appears correct and hence allow the cruise control to engage. doesn't sound cheap.

No. You will need to drop the t-box. While you are at it, change the bearings too. Check the preload before you put them back together. Not exactly an easy task.

Hi all, After studying lots of diagrams and reading up, I've finally come to this conclusion and bite the bullet and do the 10AS alarm project. There's plenty of info scattered around various websites and also here on the forum. As some may have known, i've immobilised my Td5 once and had no idea what to do after than, but that's fixed. So what you need to get the thing working. I assume your interior lights do come on when you open the doors (so your door switches are in place already). The driver door is 1 input and the rest of the other doors are connected together onto another input. It does make a slight difference to the 10AS, but if they are wired all to the driver door, it's still ok. Let's get started.... 1. Nanocom 2. Key fob (Lucas 17TN) they come in the 315 or 433Mhz variant. You need to know your 10AS frequency. 3. CDL options* 4. Bonnet switch AMR2022 (optional) and bracket ALR9158 (optional) 5. Transponder coil AMR 4897 (optional) 6. Ultrasonic sensor YWC102900LNF (optional) 7. Back up battery sounder (optional) 1. This is pretty much a programming exercise, so using a nanocom you just need to query the 10AS. ALWAYS do a read and save of the existing settings so that if anything goes wrong, you can revert the settings. Load one of the regions settings and write that to the 10AS. This pretty much enables the alarm. BUT before you do this, make sure you already have a key fob. you need to get the 10AS to learn this key fob first. this will save you a lot of headache later, so do this first. For any reason, when you want to disconnect your 10AS, you should disable the alarm or at least disarm it before you pull the cables connectors out. It will NOT want to unlock or disarm when you disconnect it while the system is armed (immobilised) and then re connect it back. 2. Key fobs come in many part numbers (when you pull up microcat or numcat), but my experience is that there's only 2 variants and that's the frequency. You need the right one. Make sure it's the model is the Lucas 17TN fob. 3. CDL has been covered extensively on this forum. There are many ways to get this working. So, if you already have CDL on your doors, this is a lot easier (or some may think). However, you will need to also understand how your CDL unit works and how it can (or cannot) be interfaced easily with the 10AS. If you visit Fitting Central Door Locks to a Defender, you will easily see that there's a missing relay in most of the 10AS that ship from the factory without alarm. So there are a few options you can take : a) buy the relay and solder it in (should be less than 6 bucks) b) tap the wires out (as shown in the documentation) and interface it to your existing CDL or some additional circuits to the CDL c) follow the factory way and buy a single 4 wire CDL master for your driver door and do option a) as well I 'cheated' by having a CDL controller and doing option a). connected the output directly to the lock / unlock wires of the motors. the 10AS will not be able to sense key unlock via the driver sill input wire in this way, but i still get to lock / unlock my doors via a single key turn if needed. 4 to 6) These are the optional extras. You will find the connectors already on the loom (well, i did on my based speced 90) so it's just connecting them on. 5. is the transponder coil, this stops the truck from being immobilsed automatically when you turn off the engine and open the driver door (with the key still in the ignition). Without this coil, the 10AS would not be able to sense the proximity of the key fob and assume it has been removed and sets the engine immobilize in 30 seconds. if the driver door is not opened, it sets immobilised in 5 minutes (still). 6. this is the most expensive piece of the puzzle. this is the volumetric sensor for the interior. it's mounted at the B post on the right side of the vehicle for HT and ©SW. Slightly different on a truck cab. 7. I skipped this option, so I can't really comment much. Most have said it's not worth it. To sum it all up, it depends on how close do you want to get it to the factory wiring specs. Once you understand how it works, you can then decide if you want to omit a certain 'function' of the alarm if you don't need it. I believe that there are many more out there whom have tried and succeeded. Do feel free to share. These are just what i've experimented with and discovered. Andrew

Here you go, i found it on YouTube. http://www.youtube.com/p/4E1AB0BCD79C9D48?hl=en_US&fs=1 I've queued all 15 of the video into a playlist.

when it falls to the blue this means that there's no coolant at the sensor. this fault points to the water pump. simple test. rev the engine hard, does the water (coolant) shoot up of the expansion tank when the cap is open? it should if the pump is working well. when you get to the point when it suddenly hits the red and in a split second later it goes to the blue, stop the car. turn off the engine. do you hear bubbling noises? this indicates the coolant is boiling. when it boils, it will push coolant out of the expansion tank cap as it's designed to release at about 1bar. get it fixed soon. mine had this problem 'suddenly' it was like everything was fine and suddenly it happened while driving.

it's a click. you can try it out on a R380. it's the gate that stops you from thinking you have a 6th gear. to hear it, you can turn off the engine, push into gear 5 and then back to neutral. you'll hear this click. Normal.

Ok it all well. I didn't mess up the codes. But I set the passive immobilizer to enable. So if I didn't have a plip, I can't turn it off. But however, I managed to turn off the immobilizer just by writing the option back to disable even while it was immobilized! Now that's starting to get scary.

Urgent help needed. I'm in a panic state as i've immobilised my truck. THis is a stock vehicle that shipped with the 10AS unit disabled. I was playing around with the nanocom and after that all looked well until i pulled out the key and turned off the nanocom. i got a nice red light glowing solid on my speedo. i tried to put the key in and start the truck, but it won't start at all. not even turn over. the engine immobilised light is flashing when i try that. so i decided to close all the doors and the red light on the speedo is flashing. so this tells me the alarm is armed and all doors are closed. next, when i open the doors the horn beeps twice and the red light on the speedo goes solid. how can i start my truck now? no, i never had and key fobs or anything else other than the keys. yes, there's a small metal tag which came with one of the keys with 6 characters. i believe this must be the number code i need. as i've read, there should be 4 numbers so the first 2 must be letters. i've tried removing the battery but it doesn't help after i put it back it's still the red light on the speedo. what can i try next? or do i have to tow it down to the dealship? is there a way to rewrite the 10AS unit and disable it? Thanks! Andrew

Fitted super pro on mine. Less stiff than polybush. Which feels better for me after comparing with a friends rig.

I've seen one before. The guy was a cad expert. Basically I believe it just to cut downwards on the plastic middle console n then fabricate a bracket of two din.

Yup thats what I read too. I was expecting more noise, but maybe my truck is 9yr so the gearbox is grouchy. But the tbox is 19yrs. So my experience, it sounds the same.

Td5 already has 3 hinges on the rear door if it's 02 n beyond.

No difference on mine. From Q to non q version.

Ok, sounds cool. I'll have a look at it again. Just getting paranoid about issues related to the transfer box, again.

Hi all, Yesterday i decided to investigate a leak from the t-box and i crawled under my 90. I noticed that oil was coming out from somewhere around the front output flange. Well since i'm already under, i also too the time to shake the prop shafts as well. Now the question : The output flange is not suppose to move up or down (other than to rotate) or is it a case of my U-joints are worn out? Do I have to drop the box to fix this leak or can i just work on it after removing the front prop? The truck drives smoothly except for a clunk front the front when ducking the clutch suddenly on a down hill. If done slowly, it's all cool. Thanks! Andrew

it's possible to get a 90 with alpine windows and full headlining but with utility panels. on my tiny island it really is the luck of the draw on what you will be getting here.

yup, it sounds like a core plug. these are cheap and they like to spring pin hole size rust holes and dump you coolant onto the road. They are pretty easy to remove and change, so i keep a few in the truck. one of them is an odd size so it can't be found off the shelve that easily. Well what it indicates, it's going to start leaking and dumping your coolant out. so better get it fixed. just tap out the old one and tap in the new one. Fill the system and run the engine. check the temp and you're all set.

not that it's helping. but i have the reverse problem on mine. gggrrr... it just doesn't want to wake from empty at times, even the low fuel indicator comes on. after driving around, it would correct itself. i've checked the line and it just seems strange.

Temp sender Water pump Check both. Feel the hoses after 30min. Both upper n lower. They should be a lil hot to the touch. If you can keep your hand on it, means the coolant is not moving.

it's commonly done on defender 90s in singapore. due to import tax reasons, the bare spec 90 is shipped over here and then the windows and such are put on. a bare spec TDCi 90 (as a commercial truck) will set you back by $120k SGD!! ok, so that's beside the point, but yes, it's do-able. the only difficult bit is cutting along the curve and getting the left and right to align. while it might have looked simple to me, it's actually a lot of accuracy involved with your tool. if you're confident, go for it. if not, it's better not to try to cut a hole and then patch it back. depending on which roof you have and how large a hole you have cut, they can end up leaking after the bodywork starts to flex and the rubber seal starts to dry. sure, it looks nice, but my take is, i can live with one less leak.

i use the k&n. My landie sees 99.9% highway driving. it does give a better air flow, less restriction. i have to agree it did ruin my MAF sensor as the oil from the filter got on it and the sensor didn't work. that cost me over 100 bucks to replace. so my take, i just clean out the filter without oiling it. if you have not change, just stick with the standard filter, if you do change it and you are not in dusty environment, do what i've done for mine.

my take. just get a complete ready to bolt in 1.222 box. do not attempt to do this swap. ask me how i know.