Andrew Chua

Hi all, I've mananged to located a discovery transfer box to replace my whining defender box which was ruined by bad workmanship when installing the 1.222 ratio gears. the teeth are all worn out due to the failed bearing. 2yrs on the road and this has to happen. The question is, just to be very sure, will any discovery LT230 fit a defender? The seller can't exactly be sure which year is the box but the box is from a discovery with a 3.6L engine. He mentioned it was either a 92 or 98 discovery. the box does have a center diff lock. If it does fit, is it a straight bolt on? I believe i need to port over the electronic speed transducer from the defender box as mine is a Td5, rite? Thanks! I need to confirm with the seller as soon as possible before he sells it off as it's going at a very reasonable price, which is cheaper than replacing the 2 gears.

I'm sure the boxes didn't do that from new. i've tried when i got my Td5 at new and i didn't have this terrible rattling noises. yup, gentle on the clutch, no harm will be done. if you can ignore the whine, it will drive well. if not SGD$2k will fix it. [now where did the year end bonus go?]

if you programmed the ECU correctly and the temp gauge thing happened, it could be that your cooling system has a problem. I had that just last year and when driving along, the gauge will very quickly hop up to the red and then immediately read cold. a fault of 'coolant over temp' will be logged in the ECU. 120kmh sounds like the limiter kicking in cos i've done 145kmh with my 90 when it was newer.

Try put the box into neutral with the engine running and drop the main box into 5 and let off the clutch. does the box rattle? yes, you have a problem there. if not, it's the prop shaft, U-joints or even the diff.

a 110 will need the boost alloy rims. the disco1 rims will not do as the load rating on the rear is higher than the spec.

power window motor overhaul - condensed version. I've done it myself before. 1. remove door card 2. remove plug to the motor (check for +12v and -12v depending on which way the switch is pressed. if no voltage, check the fuse box in the passenger compartment - 20amp x2 (left bottom row if yours is factory fitted) 3. voltage present = motor siezed 4. now the workshop manual says lower the window and loosen the 2 nuts holding the glass from the assembly. (damn it's bloody jammed up how to lower the window!!!??) 5. yes, you have a problem. now curse and swear loudly at the design and you wonder if you should fit manual windows. they have a different window regulator assembly, mind you. 6. look at the middle of the inner skin, you see a cluster of 4 nuts on you right (PS door) and 2 nuts on the left. these hold the regulator assembly in place. 7. remove them, you need someone to hold the glass for you. 8. rest the entire assembly inside the door 9. remove the 2 nuts holding the glass, yes finally. raise the glass back up and wedge it in place. 10. remove the nuts holding the inner skin of the door. 10a. you also need to remove the CDL pump (lower left on PS door) we will deal with it later. it's 2 self tapping screws. 11. now remove the regulator assembly. Refitting is as what the Haynes manual states, just reverse the procedure. if you are a LR dealer, proceed to throw away the entire assemble and replace with a new one. if you are not, read the part 2. power window motor overhaul - part 2 1. now look carefully at the way it's position, you will need to know when re-fitting. 2. remove the 4 allen screws which will seperate the black plastic part from the motor itself 3. withdraw the motor from the black plastic housing (there are gears inside and hence you should get yourself the motor with a worm gear on the shaft) 4. proceed to dismantle the motor, just pull it apart. 5. there are 2 bearings, on on top on at the bottom of the housing. the bottom one seems to be something you can't remove. derust everything. including the motor windings and re-grease them. 6. assemble them back together. test by turning the shaft with you fingers, if it turns you're good to test it with 12v. it can be real pain to put the small parts back together especially if you've never taken a part a motor or a stepping motor. 7. apply +12v and -12v to check if the motor rotates. the motor takes abt 5amps unloaded. 8. if so you have got it right, if not proceed to step 4 again. 9. now's the tuff bit to insert the shaft with the worm gear back into the black plastic part (gear box) 10. when successful, try again with 12v to make sure the regulator assemble works. 11. regrease all the moving parts in the regulator assemble 12. apply 12v to put the assemble into lowered position (hence you needed to know how and down position looked like) 13. refit it onto the inner door skin with the 4 bolts and 2 nuts.

Turn a quarter!! that's way too much. ok, first suspect would be the diff then. if you want to find out if it's the t-box, try this. put t-box into neutral put g-box into 5 let go the clutch slowly make sure your park brake is on crawl under the car and put your ear to the t-box is it rattling sound? yes, there is a problem there no, the problem is not in the t-box rev the engine listen if you hear the sound you heard at the g-box by putting your ear there (the engine will be terribly loud from under) yes, the problem is in the g-box no, it should be your diff if the problem is in the g-box, there are a few common things that can go wrong. the main input shaft or output (to the t-box) clutch bearing cluthc plate my gearbox has not given me problem, so i haven't experiment with anything as yet.

it could be the transfer box. i've overhauled my diff for over 300 gbp (1.4k sgd) and it's still whining terribly. it's going to cost you a entire rebuild of the box if the teeth are also worn out. What you can try is to find out if it's the front or the back first. remove that prop and drive in diff lock, if you nail it correctly, the whining will be gone, so you have isolated if it's the front or back. check the diff first, it's easier and cheaper than to drop the t-box.

not sure about why they are different, but they are the same on a 02 MY. I've done manual to electric (bolt on) to manual and to original electric. the gears on a electric scissor mechinism are smaller tooth as compared to the manual and the manual one has a spring loaded to hold it up. the original has a tiny motor which is very prone to rusting and jamming up. but if you look for another of my post on overhauling the motor, you can very easily get them working again.

can be either the gear box or t-box. my bet it's the bearings or the pre-load. overhauling my t-box again next month. 2nd time in 2 yrs on a 7yr old landie. so if you have covered over 200k, chances there's going to be a lot of play in the box. timr to drop it and drop a bomb on your wallet. however, if you are gentle, you still can drive for a long time, but it's just irritating noise.

pardon me, but am i missing something here? why do you even need the diode? the ECU was designed to switch 2x 10W loads for the interrior lamps as each is a 10W bulb.

i found this out the hard way. i actually wire-ed parallel lamps to the middle and back of the interior from the front light. works well and is still working. i've halogen down lighting. nice romantic orange lights. yes, the current drawn is about 2amps. but one day while cleaning the td5 90, i opened the cover at the back on the right side and i found the connector for the rear interior lamps. so if you are looking for them, it might be worth a try there first before you pull wires all the way from the front. they are always 'on' 12v. so you can find it even without the engine running. yes, it's the purple black one.

the last time i had this problem was when the t-box was leaking. so the oil gunked up the brake pads in the drum. after a good clean, all was well for awhile until some days it just won't release after releasing the hand brake. the pads would simply just stick. in the end, i changed the brake pads in the drum and it's been solved. upon inspection of the removed pads, they were totally gooey. no amount of cleaning will get them ok after they have absorbed too much oil.

yes, unplug the sensor and it uses the default value. the egr is located on the left side (when facing the engine), near to you. so you can just undo the 4 allen bolts to the intake manifold and pull it off to check.

td5 do not have timing belts. they have a dual chain inside the block. you need to take off the cover to see it. if it breaks, it's going to cost you a lot of money. generally, it will not break unless something is wrong. engine mounting? or gearbox mounting? have there been any strange things before this happened?

clutch master pump. i've been thru over 5 of them. Never changed the slave though. Td5 belt tensioner. buy the original one, never the compatible one. alternator bushes radiator hoses dampers (shocks) 3 sets springs 2 sets head gasket 3 sets oil seals on the axle transfer box gears and bearings handbrake shoes disc brake pads

that is why the pedals on a land rover require quite a bit of strength to hold on. yes, the aching right foot after a 300km highway run. ha ha. besides them behind so high, they couldn't really get wedged on the mat either.

your landie parked on flat ground? sometimes, the fuel flows back into the tank and it just won't crank. try parking head down and see.

finally solve this one. after ripping everything out, still the same. tighten all the bolts to the door and the mirror arm, no difference. I decided i'm at my wits end and decided to wedge a piece of paper folded 4 time at the ball head of the arm where it meets the cup on the mirror back. done. the mirror doesn't vibrate anymore.

open up lower screw on radiator hose. right side of vehicle (left side when facing the engine) open up the plastic bowl screw open up upper screw on radiator hose allow to drain tighten lower screw screw in upper (finger tight) top up coolant / antifreeze (depending where in the world you are) at the plastic bowl keep at it till you see some flowing out from the screw at the upper radiator hose. let some drain out tighten the upper screw (securely) start the engine top up the coolant at the plastic bowl again until correct level.

go for a pioneer unit. they are slightly more expensive, but they do well off road. a sony fitted in a defender with hard suspension even skips when driving on tarmac! i've had 2 pioner nd 1 sony in my td5 90 before.

pre 02 - no, will not work. if you read the ecu with a nanocom and it says cruise control enabled, it will work. brake and clutch switch controlled by ecu hence it's not a problem.

ok this puzzle has been solved. it's the anti-roll bar bushes. actually the bolts were loose. so no drama, just torque up and it's done. now on to the next major problem that's going to cost me lots.

2005MY and beyond have these curved corners. They look a lot better than the ugly wielding that's on my 02MY. Sure, someone lost his job, but i still feel it's better to have these updated doors. Times have changed.

As I read it off the nanocom, i get various readings from +4 to -5 on the different injectors when the engine is running. Sometimes I'd get a rare +7. 1. What's the ideal reading supposed to be? 2. What's the readings trying to tell me? 3. If something is wrong, is it electronically controlled or can some 'tuning' fix it? Thanks!