Andrew Chua

it depends. having the volts would be good when charging. Having the amp on your aux battery would tell you how much you are drawing from the battery and hence you would be able to work out mentally a rough estimate how long before your aux battery goes flat and the frozen meat in the freezer will go bad and the beers aren't icy cold. You can also consider marine battery monitoring meters. Like this one. http://www.xantrex.com/web/id/98/p/1/pt/7/product.asp Although it doesn't do the amps, it does let you know the status of the batteries and how they are charging along side with the voltage.

I've fitted 1.222 to a Td5 90. i noticed no significant lost of power. pulls out of junctions faster on a stock map as you don't have to rev the engine too hard to get moving. You get a better drive on the highway, less noisy and lowered rpm. in short, what you did at 65km/h will give you now 72km/h. I do not do towing hence, if towing is an issue, better stick with the 1.410. Alternatively is throw in a remap for this gear set and you'll be all ready to go with no loss of power in towing that the stock 1.410.

that large hole in the passenger side is for the air con pipe work. the condenser drip pipe goes thru there as well. good and nice place to get it choked up with mud and then the water starts dripping into the footwell and you wonder what happened.

it seems to make a slight groan when articulating especially when going up a ramp in the car park diagonally. i guess it's time to change the bushes again. so it's the bushes on tha A frame linkage and not the ball joint on the a frame rite?

Hi all, Just a quick question, i believe that some of my bushes have a problem. So here's the question. When turning right (on a full moon and the sky is purple), the rear seems to swing out after completing the turn. Is it the trailing arm bushes? Truck drives straight doesn't pull to either side when steering is released while moving. Thanks! Andrew

The front has uprated 1/2 shafts so i'm not too worried, it's just the rear 1/2 shafts. So they are different as what i read. The shop told me they are the same, so i'd better double confirm before i go get them tomorrow.

Hi all, Got a quick question : Are the 1/2 shafts on the Salisbury axle and the rover axle the same, both being rear axles? I'm taking a 110 to the RFC this weekend and it has a rover axle on the front and a salisbury on the rear. Hence i need to get spare 1/2 shaft for the rear, hence the question. Thanks!

i've fitted one before when the butterfly valve on my Td5 failed before and there was oil going into the intercooler. i got a cheap japanese one, had to make the hoses, but they aren't under a lot of pressure, so normal hoses will even hold up. so it's simple enough that you can see the amount of oil in it as well, so when it's full you just tip it over and out it comes.

the fluke 355 (clamp meter) will measure DC amps. cost abt 370sgd, hence i'm still hesitent to buy one.

ok, a standard Td5 with nothing will draw 0.03amps when everything is off. that's 30mA. Assuming you have an additional aftermarket alarm, that should be another 50mA draw. so no matter how, it should be less than 100mA when powered down. since the expected current drawn is small, you simply pull off the negative wire and connect a cheap multi meter between the black wire and the battery and read the current drawn. such a meter will be capable of 10Amps so it's no drama. it gets a little more complicated if you have installed things like large stereo amplifier which don't like sudden disconnect and re-connecting of a battery, they tend to spark when connected as they draw a huge rush of current to charge up the capacitors. in this case, you can clip on a seperate 12v battery to the two leads before disconnecting them, connect the amp meter in series, then remove the additional 12v battery and read the amps. you will need 2 pairs of hands here. once you're done, connect the additional 12v battery back to the lead, remove the amp meter and the put the 2 leads back on the battery and remove the additional battery. so assuming you have 2x 55AH optima yellow top in parallel, you have about 75AH of power on tap. but bear in mind, anything lower than 50% you're going to have a hard time cranking especially in the cold. a Td5 needs at least 275Amps to turn over from warm (measured mine before, with a clamp meter), so a totally cold start would be well over 300Amps. assuming all linear, when parked up and drawing 80mA. then it's 75000 / 80 = 937.5 hrs before you need to start the truck up. that's about 39days. as mentioned earlier they also loose their charge, so i would put my bet at most 4 weeks. I had a leaking radio that drained the battery the following day if left unstarted for over 48hrs. hence, that could be a possible lead too. the fuse box in the center are 'dead' when ignition off, so you don't really need to try to find the problem there. you can attack the giant fuses in the box under the DS first, by removing the giant fuses to see which main circuit the problem is in and then narrow down. good luck, it can be very frustrating trying to find the problem.

there are 2 relays there on mine. they are unmarked. i'm clueless too. (we are talking abt under the DS) the starter and glow plug fuse is a 100AMP inside the box. (1st one from the left). there's another relay that is warm to touch which goes to the starter motor as well, which i belive the alternator feeds. it's in the center fuse box (2nd one from the left) engine turning without firing, could it be your ecu again? there's a fuse on the black connector on mine with 2 brown wires, which should indicate 12v live, you want to check if you have one of those?

facing the fuse box inside the vehicle. it's the lower row on the left. it's a 20amp fuse you're looking for. there are 2. one for the left and one for the right.

it's $218,000 sgd for one here. you do the math and hold on to your chair. 6 units here in singapore

definately if it can be shipped to me! I've gone thru the exercise of super glue, bondo, duct tape and other options and it's still falling apart.

it's a straight bolt on. no fuss. on a 90, if you have mud flaps, you'll need to modify them to allow the wrap round to fit. on a 110, no drama. 5min and you're all set.

you can hear the fuel pump running when you have all the doors shut (windows up) and the glow plug lamp will come on briefly when put into pos II. check the 100AMP fuse (there's only one under the driver seat). maybe just remove them all (unscrew), and re-sit them nicely again. those there are permanent live. if check engine light comes on, then usually it's a connection to the ECU or ECU related problem. the only other thing will be the crank sensor that can stop a TD5.

the seal on the bottom is original. i have it on a 2002 defender. if you have the original membrain sheet, it had an extra piece that tucks into the inside hence the water drains into the door to the place in picture 1. it's supposed to have the black sticky stuff to it making it 'water tight' hence the side won't rust in picture 2. ha ha.

power window motor overhaul - condensed version. I've done it myself before. 1. remove door card 2. remove plug to the motor (check for +12v and -12v depending on which way the switch is pressed. if no voltage, check the fuse box in the passenger compartment - 20amp x2 (left bottom row if yours is factory fitted) 3. voltage present = motor siezed 4. now the workshop manual says lower the window and loosen the 2 nuts holding the glass from the assembly. (damn it's bloody jammed up how to lower the window!!!??) 5. yes, you have a problem. now curse and swear loudly at the design and you wonder if you should fit manual windows. they have a different window regulator assembly, mind you. 6. look at the middle of the inner skin, you see a cluster of 4 nuts on you right (PS door) and 2 nuts on the left. these hold the regulator assembly in place. 7. remove them, you need someone to hold the glass for you. 8. rest the entire assembly inside the door 9. remove the 2 nuts holding the glass, yes finally. raise the glass back up and wedge it in place. 10. remove the nuts holding the inner skin of the door. 10a. you also need to remove the CDL pump (lower left on PS door) we will deal with it later. it's 2 self tapping screws. 11. now remove the regulator assembly. Refitting is as what the Haynes manual states, just reverse the procedure. if you are a LR dealer, proceed to throw away the entire assemble and replace with a new one. if you are not, read the part 2. power window motor overhaul - part 2 1. now look carefully at the way it's position, you will need to know when re-fitting. 2. remove the 4 allen screws which will seperate the black plastic part from the motor itself 3. withdraw the motor from the black plastic housing (there are gears inside and hence you should get yourself the motor with a worm gear on the shaft) 4. proceed to dismantle the motor, just pull it apart. 5. there are 2 bearings, on on top on at the bottom of the housing. the bottom one seems to be something you can't remove. derust everything. including the motor windings and re-grease them. 6. assemble them back together. test by turning the shaft with you fingers, if it turns you're good to test it with 12v. it can be real pain to put the small parts back together especially if you've never taken a part a motor or a stepping motor. 7. apply +12v and -12v to check if the motor rotates. the motor takes abt 5amps unloaded. 8. if so you have got it right, if not proceed to step 4 again. 9. now's the tuff bit to insert the shaft with the worm gear back into the black plastic part (gear box) 10. when successful, try again with 12v to make sure the regulator assemble works. 11. regrease all the moving parts in the regulator assemble 12. apply 12v to put the assemble into lowered position (hence you needed to know how and down position looked like) 13. refit it onto the inner door skin with the 4 bolts and 2 nuts. CDL (central door locking) 1. disconnect the plug from the cdl pump, after removing the door card 2. apply 12v to the pump, does it move 3a. yes : the problem is at the 10AS not triggering 3b. no : the pump is faulty, nothing much you can do but replace it. you do not need a land rover CDL pump any 3rd part one will work with a lil bit of repositing and drilling. wiper motor i've not dismantled it before. there's a post on how to replace it but you need to practically remove the entire dash board.

damn it. i just typed a super long reply on how to overhaul the power window motor and it's gone. power windows - no they are not connected to ECU CDL - yes they are triggered by the 10AS if yours supports it wipers - no they are not check the TD5 wiring diagrams if you're not sure. all these are parts that will size up when dunked in water.

believe it or not, the manual says do not hold full lock for more than 1 minute!

After burning the light switch, i jus decided not to turn on the headlamps. just the side lights when i drive. heck, singapore is so bright, you can practically drive without turning on any lights.

it's a 100 gbp switch from the dealership that you just melted. now you can go buy a new one and replace it. remove the switch and take a good look. you'll soon see what's the problem, easily.

my advise, if you do not know how to DIY, get the pro to do it. they break the glass they pay you a new one. especially with the windscreen, i don't think i want to fork out that kinda money.

1. lower the window 2. remove the door card 3. slightly loosen the two nuts from the inside rather than attempting the allen on the outside 4. close the door (important) you don't want the door getting out of alignment 5. loosen the bolts from the outside 6. remove the nuts from the inside. yes, that's why you lower the windows 7. remove the 2 bolts 8. now you just flip the hinge forward 9. you can loosen / tigten / remove the entire arm assambly

it really depends, if you haven't rev the engine hard for a long time, they throw out plenty when you floor the gas. i noticed this after about a week of driving as i'm really light footed. so it's just a simple habit of dragging your gears a little longer before change up or if you can live with it, just rev the engine hard once in awhile and smoke out the guy behind and beside you. if it's constantly chucking out black smoke, then you might have a fueling problem. fuel pressure regulator ok? fuel pump ok? fuel mapping correct? intercooler ok? check your intake manifold if there's plenty of sludge, yes, black sticky and oily stuff. if so, you might consider washing your intercooler. then back up 1 step and check the butterfly valve, for it's prone to failing and letting oil thru. if not, you can fit an oil catch tank. works well for me when i didn't change the valve. i've gotten it back to stock setup now. next, MAF sensor. ok? try unplug and run the engine, any better? if it's stops smoking, you know it's the sensor. still other possible reasons are the injectors, but i doubt it if you have less than 200k km on the clock.