ajh

Here are photos of what I'm talking about. I would be very happy to find out that I've just done something wrong and that it's an easy thing to fix.

I am in the process of fitting the inner fenders and one wing and I have run into issues where the dual tubular shock tower does not seem to clear the stock opening in the inner fender. I suspect this is also an issue with the single tubular shock towers as it is fouling on the tube closest to the chassis and to the bulkhead. So, questions I have are: 1. Are the outboard shock mounts supposed to point out and away from the chassis or in towards it? I fitted them pointing outward as it seemed the only logical way to do it, but before pulling things apart again it would be nice to have a confirmation. 2. Am I supposed to cut the inner fender or can I get away with hammering it out to fit around the tower? 3. If I do need to modify the inner fenders, why do the vendors selling these towers not disclose this in their descriptions as is customary? You know so you know to wait and re-galvanize the parts AFTER making the modifications to them instead of finding out when you get to the point in the build that all your parts are finished and ready to re-fit? Are they idiots or is it me? Thanks, much appreciated. Hope to get this sorted, get my next parts order next week, and hopefully get the engine running and the front together within 2 weeks. Then of course deal with the wiring harness which will be fun and once I have the new front doors in about a month (shipping screw-ups going on for the last 5 months) I can start to design and fabricate the custom dash. (yay). Thanks for the help (this time and all the others, I really value the help I get from the community here as there is not really enough local community here with Defenders to be able to pull much beta and most of them are either NAS or various MOD variants that really don't match up to my build anyway.)

Thanks, VWP was the first place I looked but I am not having any luck finding the connectors on the site to order them and Econoseal in the search box brings up 0 hits. Would you have a name I could search for or a specific URL? http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-5623-tail-lamp-boot-kit-defender-90.aspx contains the boots, they also sell them separately for about 5.50USD. My plan is to fit LED lamps, fill the housings with acrylic resin, and silicone seal the boot and connector to the lamp housing and then just do the same in 5-10 years when the bulbs go, rather than messing around dealing with water getting inside etc. That and replacing the reflectors with body-colour reflective tape across the entire width of the rear quarter panels, also to hide the scratches in the paint from fitting the tub. The stuff is really bright and easy to replace once worn out too.

Does anyone know a source for the NAS signal lamp 2 & 3 pin connectors as well as the rubber boots for them? I found them from Rovers North but $20+ per lamp seems excessive, more than the lamps cost themselves.

You probably want to replace it with a shielded cable as well. I'm hoping to figure out a good way to do it on my carPC, ideally I'd like a captive wire terminal. The 1/8" headphone jacks are and will always be carp, had to go 1/4"/XLR for my office system to be even remotely happy with the fidelity.

Well on a recommendation I got a set of Dura-Trac as a "highway" tire but looking at them side by side with bfg mt they seem just as lugged if not more but the tread pattern is supposed to result in a quiet ride. Can't run them yet but hoping

One of the mods I am working on is airbags in all four springs, the idea is to use the onboard air to allow forced articulation on things like sideslopes to make them a little less scary, not that I will really want to push the 110 to test it, they're mostly for towing and stiffening up the suspension on long highway rides

What you want is a diode filter to block the ac/rf noise. You can get premade filters intended for CB radios and similar. I had a major issue with this in my D2 when I upgraded from the stock system which clearly had filters built in.

Just be aware the pinion is much longer and your rear shaft will need to be shorter.

For either just make sure you have a 50A charger to de-sulphate annually, my PC2150 only lasted 3 years and they blamed parasitic drains. (d2)

Anything helps and if you can do it cheap and easily why not.

No, the rear hanger uses a rubber isolator with two holes in it, just like the other two. However seeing a photo of any setup would help somewhat. I might be missing parts as it is a ground-up build, the problem is 110 are next to impossible to find around here to look at

Anyone, please?

Aaargh, this night just keeps getting better and better. I got as much of the tank fitted as I can, had to re-drill to move it forward since I forgot there's usually those rubber bits at the back and I'm building from scratch so I don't have those so I had it about an inch further back than it was supposed to be, which is why the fillers did not line up. On top of this I went to line up the rear quarter panel plating and ... Paddocks sent me TWO LEFT HAND ONES! Arrgh.

Issues so far: There is no pipe to connect the two tanks together included with the tanks. The filler pipe and the overflow filler into the main tank do not line up even remotely closely. There are no swaybar spacers included. Has anyone else had those parts included? The website says all tanks come with all the required parts to install, but clearly this is not the case. What legal recourse do I have at this point?

Oh, and where does the triangular bit of black steel go?

Thanks for the diagram. When fitting the threaded fittings should I use Teflon tape or RTV silicone to seal things up?

Is it normal for the pipe clip holes for fuel and brake lines to be missing on a Richards chassis? Guess I have to just drill? (it sounds obvious but really want to be certain before cutting into things )

I have to admit to being no less unclear, a photo would solve it for sure.

Would somebody be so kind as to take a photo of how the rearmost exhaust hanger on a 200tdi 110 bolts up? My NorthOffroad one might differ a bit as I am thouroughly perplexed as to how the hanger and mounting could possibly work. Thanks, much appreciated.

So I have an extended range main tank (200TDI) from Safari Equip and a Right wheel arch aux tank. They came with a pile of fittings but no directions at all and they are refusing to provide directions. Does anyone know what is supposed to connect where on these tanks?

Do you think there would be any demand for an alloy rad frame that would allow a front mounts intercooler to be properly fitted flush with where the rad usually is and a matching fan shroud to make adding a Kenlowe fan a drop-in option? The 2nd would also obviously be made to fit a stock setup as well. I only have a 200TDI here right now and had to come up with a clean solution to mount both my Allisport FMIC and FirstFour Offroad close fitting winch bumper as well as the electric fan and I should have an idea of production costs this week. The other thing I am working on as an alloy dash shell similar in concept to the SIIa dash but setup for aftermarket gauges/switches but using a similar bolt-on modular panel idea. Just working out the best way to handle the airflow issues now. This is a longer term project but I expect some progress in the next month at least in design and would really love to get feedback and ideas from everyone who might consider somethIng like this. I am aiming for something as clean as the dash in the TLC Icons but something that clearly says Land Rover.

Why not just get a machinist to use a set of die punches to put it back on properly after repair. It's still in the other locations anyway.

http://www.clearplex.com/?about would be a new thing then, which is why I asked if anyone had tried it. I'm sick of my D2 windscreen looking like someone etched the outside of it. Even if it had to be replaced regularly, if the overall cost is reasonable then why not it would keep the glass nice and optically clear and provide the anti-chip protection I'm looking for. Any small rock damage is fairly easy to repair with the high-pressure acrylic injection system.

I still think the high-density commercial tiles like you see in schools is the way to go for durability, and if they do get damaged you can always chip one of them out and replace it.