ajh

Just get steel weights tack welded to the inside of the rim where needed. Same idea as propshafts. One of the advantages of steel rims.

When you get a 300 you get an R380, and if you've driven an LT77 you'll appreciate this. I went 200TDI and picked up a short-R380 to swap in, but it was more because I wanted dead simple and the Series engine mounting location with all that nice room between the rad and the engine. (OK and for weight bias) but if I was doing it again I'd get something with an R380 already I think.

So, just to throw something else in the mix... why gears instead of a chain drive conversion? Of course gear one gear is better short term like in a Britten V1000 but like everyone knows, they wear.

Pn HRC1163. The corrosion in the threads was the issue with the bolts, guess they stored them without bolts before shipping the housing. I am guessing the seal shape difference won't make a difference.

OK, with enough shims it seems to be OK now. However I have another issue where I have two double armed swivel housings and they seem to use different bolts for securing the seal washer goes. One took M6 but the same do not thread into the other. They differ slightly too in other ways, the seal washer is a slightly different shape as is the surface it mates with on the original one and that one does not take the M6 thread. The reason they differ is I am swapping one to go from RHD to LHD. Other than the threads they look OK, should I just helicoil the old one to take M6 and be done with it?

So... if new bearings are not available to fix a steering column, why does the Def_90_110_WSM_book4.pdf on page 57 have a maintenance procedure that requires removing the old bearings and fitting new ones?

So, my Paddocks order arrived today (amazing how quick despite being trans-atlantic shipping) and I started to fit things together. It is a 1991 110 so the kit came with the Railko Bushings, everything seems OK until I go to insert the top pin and at that point even with all the shims in place the preload is too great to even turn it at all by hand and getting the top pin back out is a painful nightmare. Any suggestions on what I could be doing wrong? Both the bearing race and bushing cup are fitted all the way flush with the ball (pressed in) and things LOOK how they're supposed to from what I can tell. UPDATE: I accidentally fitted the other one without the thrust disc, and it seems to preload properly with only the 3 thin shims. Is it possible that I could need 3-4mm of shim for this?

Rads are closed loop systems so pump workload is governed by the number and angle of the bends and the diameter of the pipe. Head hight is not relevant in a closed loop. Avoiding bends is the best way to keep flow resistance low.

If you want to see how to get more flex from the watts take a look at the modified one Rovertym does.

If you're worried about brightness you should also consider fitting the NAS lamps at the same time, use the RDX easyfit plinths for a clean easy install and you get a lot more reflected light as well as a much bigger area to light up. Can never be too visible.

As another option, does anyone sell the lugnuts (both steel and alloy) pre-drilled for safety wire?

Sorry to be brief but am on my phone running out of power. 2003 discovery v8 auto sunroof leaked heavily overnight weather went from months below freezing to heavy rain today on highway suddenly lost power if in drive, seems to work in 3rd acceleratg from stop works in drive up to 40kph then stops I have minimal tools with me but any insight on where to look would be very helpful.

De Dion has one other advantage over solid in that you can do the equiv of portal ends to raise the diffs significantly without all the extra cost The locator there looks like just a Watts linkage. Had thought about this before, another option of course is going IFS/Solid or De Dion in the back. Still doubtful if my fabrication experience is sufficient to pull that off, but I have a year and a bit to improve.

Well my plan is to put wide-angle led bulbs in NAS housings then try filling one with acrylic resin by drilling a hole in the bottom to see if there are any long-term issues.

There should also be a drain plug on the block you can use to properly drain the jacket. At least on the v8 there is a substantial amount in there. Personally I use PG coolant over OAT/Dexcool as it is non-toxic to animal life.

I am more concerned with pipe threads, it also just occurred to me that the 200TDI clutch pipe I ordered is likely to be the incorrect threading. I guess what I need to confirm is that a 300TDI slave and pipe will fit on the TD5 master (or should I get the TD5 slave and pipe?).

So, to clarify things. If I am fitting an R380 short-bellhousing to a 200TDI I know I need: FTC4229 and UTJ100210 Now I am also fitting a TD5 clutch pedal box with the assist spring and master cyl. Can anyone confirm which clutch slave I should be ordering?

I painted with Zinc Chromate primer and top coated with Tremclad Professional semi-gloss. Will let you know how it holds up in a few years, our environment here is one of the worst for salt damage. I suspect that even so I will end up needing to spray it with some kind of wax product within the first 3 years. The advantage of wax vs paint is the flexibility, the harder the surface the easier it is removed by grit-blasting, so the same applies to road debris.

Given the box section design of the chassis I bet you could cut 3/4" holes every foot or so down the chassis in the sides without affecting the working load at all. I am sure someone with more engineering background could help be more specific but if someone really thought about design (Richards, Designa) and did a holed chassis with the holes all pressed into flares, I bet they could achieve the same or greater strength with significantly better longevity and lower weight. I would not worry about adding holes, one to add for sure is in the bottom of the dumbiron where they all rust out after the crud accumulates there, and just behind them in the front chassis rail. When I sandblasted and painted my old chassis the amount of crud still left inside even after weeks of effort was astounding.

So yeah, my tank layout is quite different but that gives me a good idea of what to connect where I hope. Still have not gotten any instructions at all for installing the main or aux tanks from SafariEquip, nor the parts that were missing from my shipment.

Si, that looks incredible. Too bad you're not local here , well as far as I can tell there is only one really good commercial fabricator locally and I suspect this would be quite expensive.

Diesel waxing is only really a problem in the far north of Canada, in November our pumps all switch to winter diesel which I believe is good to -50C. I was planning on fitting a heated filter head eventually though as I will be blending my own fuel starting next year once I pay off the silly expenses on the 110. I will find a way to get the microcat page printed, I tried to buy a license but the rejected my "application" to do so.

If I am fitting a sedimentor to a 200TDI and have removed the SLU, is there any reason not to install it using the SLU top-bracket mounting location? I have an extended range tank and I am not sure exactly where the "Stock" location for it is but since the draw tube exits forward and the holes are already there (will just make a bracket) seems to be as good a place as any right? On a similiar topic, what should I use for diesel line to bring it from the rear to the front? Is just using 1/4" stainless for the long run and fitting barbs for fitting flex-line to the ends sensible? I really should have bought two of these so I would have another to look at as I re-assemble .

Oh, any reason the radius arms cannot be mounted over axle vs under axle? Combined with something high-pinion and really high coil-over mounting hoops with on-axle mounts vs under it seems like it would be possible to move most of the things that are likely to hit something up above when combined with the long-travel and hydraulic bump stops and modified chassis to ensure there is enough clearance upwards as is required. I hear ya on the independent suspension and if I find someone who is familiar enough with the style used on the Baja trucks (triangle with horizontal damper for really long travel, not sure what they're called) and who can do the fabrication then great. My worry about stealing suspension from another vehicle is getting enough travel. My goal though is to do it as reasonably as I can, at least for the basic design, which for now seems to mean using at least some of a stock ladder frame, something like the Tomcat cage, and Tomcat body panels. If I had more chassis experience I would certainly build the whole cage myself and just use the panels but I am more curious about taking good solid beam axle technology as far as I can without going too nuts on R&D hassles. (yeah, I know). I was also thinking in the car just now that one thing that might benefit a live axle vehicle for racing would be an active/semi-active anti-roll system. Disclaimer, I have never looked at any active/semi-active suspension technology in detail so I might just be re-inventing the wheel here. What I was thinking was use a standard torsion bar (antirock likely) on the rear axle. On the front what I am envisioning, and this may be out to lunch and over-complex is... Mounting the normal coil-overs, say Bilstein 9300s, then Inboard of those mounting another damper but with a very oversized total bypass setup, then on the bypass tubes setup a cross-linked system where the axle movement pushes fluid into a central remove reservoir (well, two with a gas/piston separation) from the dampers on both sides of the vehicle, BUT, and this is where it gets a bit more complex; link them with valving in such a way that if both are simultaneously compressed the valving allows the fluid to move quickly into the central reservoir negating any significant damping effect, then is sucked back into the damper on the rebound stroke. The roll-case obviously has one compressing more than the other and the valving would stiffen up on the side with greater compression. That would be a mechanical approach. Given the move towards embedded systems in vehicles these days, another approach would be to have solenoid valves on each bypass tube, which could be triggered to allow or disallow free movement of the piston. Coupled with a Linux system and accelerometers located on the axle, the chassis, and roll/pitch sensors this could (and with this you would probably want them on all 4 wheels) selectively and 1000s of times a second oscillate the valving to adjust for road conditions, like say all 4 wheels leaving the ground at once, etc. If you put two per damper you could control compression and rebound variable damping at the same time. So, is this how the current semi-active setups work? Am I nuts? It sure would be nice to be able to have adjustable damping bias in the cockpit on my D2, tighten things up for the highway, relax it for off-road, something like this would also allow running significantly softer springs for much more survivable landings

I would worry about flamability and wicking, roll that and get fuel on it and you have napalm. Something like TG-1 spray on insulation covered with Dynamat or similar is probably a lot safer. If you want more insulation then closed cell neoprene is not a bad choice after. Also, do not underestimate the thermal advantage of putting tinfoil shiny side down on the back of the headliner with glue, this is basically what all the emergency 'space blankets' are. It is not insulation but it does help keep the heat in.