ajh

Does anyone have experience with the latest offerings in the paint and windscreen protection film market? With the flat windscreen on the Defender having a protective film applied to the outside to minimize the chance of stone-cracks just seems like a really good idea and I'll be doing this for certain (and I'm getting a bit annoyed by the face that the windscreen on my D2 just cannot be made clear, the outside seems to be grit blasted from road debris/sand and I can only see it getting worse with time.) since it will probably make the difference in having a large rock come through the screen vs a small pit-mark and it can be changed as it wears out like a tear-off with a whole lot less effort than getting a new windscreen. Something even more important if you've forked out for the heated screen (I went clear, non-green for the best visibility, I also find the heater wires in the D2 windscreen to be quite distracting and reduce night vision quite a bit.) The paint films however seem new, and given the long-term issues with moisture seeping through the paint and causing paint to bubble, etc, a urethane layer would really seal the paint vs having to wax regularly and they seem to be quite invisible when applied. That and more importantly, after doing a part-by-part full restoration and painting on every body panel (and my gods was it expensive and I did a lot of the prep work, but I'll be doing a whole lot more next time for sure.) It would be nice to be able to go do some local moderate trails (this 110 is more intended for expedition/shows/DD than for hard-core offroading) without having to worry about the shrubs detailing the paint.

Though really, I'm getting tired of having a dozen sets of different tires. I think this 110 is just going to get a good decent A/T set for most of the year and the Blizzak for the winter.

Oh, I owe him an apology, they're not from Challenger at all, they're from the deadbeat that runs Safari Equip. (got the tub tree sliders from Challenger, which are fine.) I think I need to sue this Safari Equip guy to get the rest of my parts, 6 months and I still don't have proper installation instructions for my fuel tanks, the ARB spacers, or the stainless steel vent covers that were missing from my shipment in September.

Yeah, spending a couple bucks a minute just did not seem sensible. I was hoping someone else had similar experiences and could offer some insight. I'll send him some email.

Really, nobody? With only the two ends bolted up they're really nowhere near strong enough either. I am thinking that some fabrication is going to be needed to add some attachment points closer to the main chassis rails, i.e. not through the thin ends of the outrigger and crossmember before I'm likely to actually trust them much.

1. Powder coat 2. Epoxy primer, followed by 2-part Urethane 3. Zinc Rich Primer, then any top-coat. If galvanized it needs to be done with something like Zinc Chromate or Acid Etch Primer first for any of the paint options. For PC they lightly sandblast to key the surface.

Firestone Destination M/T.

When I bolt the sliders up the front attaches to the bulkhead bolt fine, the back lines up with the middle removable tub crossmember, but the one intended to bolt to the back outrigger has about a 1cm gap between the bracket and the outrigger. (obviously on a 110) Any ideas? Just make some spacers and chalk it up to poor measurement either on the part of Challenger or of Richards?

Some more fun, after a while and without much help from the install document (come on guys, have you not heard of including photos?) I think I've almost managed to get the FMIC where it should be on my 92 200TDI. There is one issue though, I have all the hoses lined up and connected, I have the slam panel roughly where it should be according to the top brackets, however I cannot figure out how the bottom brackets mount. The "documentation" does not specify drilling at all for the bottom brackets so I assume they go on the small U shaped ears on the top of the dumbirons, only if I do this, it is fine on one side, but since both bottom brackets are identical on the other side it is out an inch or so. If this is the correct location I would have assumed one bracket would be a left and the other a right, but they seem to be both rights. Did they screw up and ship me the wrong parts, or am I just doing something very wrong?

OK, sounds like a good solution for me then. Thanks.

I will try wiggling but the wheels spin freely and everything lines up fine. To the previous reply, as stated the only things that changes were the housing and swivel balls, the rest is original.

Well, everything is together and working and both sides are the exact same so I would rule out a fluke like that.

Basically I just put back together everything that I took apart. I guess putting a slide hammer on the threads and trying to pull them out a bit is the next step.

Does anyone know if I can get the TD5 clutch master to slave hose (NRC2211) in braided stainless? and if yes, from where?

Well, I'm using the ones from the original axle, which was a 1992, but then so are the half-shafts, everything except the housing is spec'ed for the 1992 and the two housings compared side by side seem identical other than the radius arm brackets and ARB mounts.

After breaking lines "rated" for the winch I'm putting on shorter stronger lines instead and using extensions when needed. Also makes it easier to wash things too. Bringing along a 50' extension or more with 75-90' on the drum is usually more than enough.

So, I made some changes and got my front suspension back together and the only odd thing is that now the CV short-shaft is too short, not too short to work, but sits flush with the drive flange end which makes getting the clip back on impossible. It is the same on both ends. The parts changed include using a D1 front axle housing (to add ARB), new britpart swivels, and new vented discs where once solid discs were. Everything feels tight and solid. Just a bit confusing.

Not sure you guys can call it a weird name, not with your biros and hoovers.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=9334865&l=29f9f8c41d&id=544610503 has a pic of mine sewercapped. I really believe it is the best way to do it, although I totally stripped the old sheet metal from the banjo and then had to make a small spacer ring to weld in first, but now there is no gap at all, solid 1/4" or thicker all the way round.

Epoxy paint dip is also viable if you can find someone who does it, I know ECR does this for their rebuilt doors.

Do the D2 shafts use the same U-joints? Wondering if I can pick one up and rebuild it using the flange from the old 110 front shaft instead of an adapter, just a 40mm lift and an expedition vehicle so not so flexy so not too worried about the spline length.

OK, so ATEK answers emails very quickly, and yes, there should be zerks fitted to the TREs.

Looking at the TRE it looks like there is an open threaded hole in the top of each, like a zerk fitting should be there. Having an open hole to the inside of the TRE just seems like a bad idea in any case, can anyone comment on this? Should grease fittings be added?

So, it's time to run the new fuel lines (well, time to order them at least, still need to re-tweak the bulkhead after galvanizing first) and I just wanted to make sure I'm ordering the right ones. I'm fitting a sedimentor (200TDI) and are the stock lines (ones that specify for a sedimentor) the right option or should I be looking at aftermarket options? Just need to sort the fuel lines and get the rad/cooler hooked up and I can test-run things again just to be sure nothing went wonky over the last 12 months.

The one I bought was really cheap, I think I paid 6GBP off Ebay or so.