C18RCH

Having never changed the wheel bearings on an older model I didn't know there was a difference. Like most things on a Defender I assumed they would be one of the things that is unchanged but that is also why I put the reference up just in case. My bad However, hub 'nut' or hub 'nuts' is not what I based my advice on. For all I knew it could have been a typo or reference to the ones on the other wheels.

I assume you mean the large hub nut (about 41mm nut I think). They have to be tightend to 210Nm. Have a look at this: http://defender-manuals.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/Land_Rover_Defender_Workshop_Manual_1999_and_2002_MY.pdf Page 392. My only advice would be don't even attempt this with one of those rubbish box spanners.

Bump started a 12 ton combine by towing it with the landy. Well, the idea was for me to tow it to the top of a hill and let it roll down but the farmer had other ideas. Nearly pulled the rear end off my landy when he put it in gear!

I need to move my 110 from Salisbury to Nottinghamshire. It has no MoT so it needs to be transported. Can anyone reccommend anyone or give me an idea of how much it will cost? Rich

Maybe a daft question but does anyone know if they fit? I've been after a 110 canvas roof for ages and haven't seen one but there are loads of 109 soft tops out there.

Diagram as promised Sorry, I don't think the IGN feed is the promblem but rather the problem is somewhere on the IGN feed. As you can see from the diagram the flasher relay uses the same power feed to activate the relay and also power the bulbs which would imply that the flasher relay should click constantly as it always has power. I know it is not as simple as this, I assume the other components in the flasher relay and Haz switch are there to prevent this. My understanding of electrics doesn't go as far as understanding how this actually works. Can anyone explain this?

Yeah, have changed relay, hazard switch, steering column switches. Disconnected trailer electrics but has made no difference. Have drawn a circuit diagram which I'll upload later when on computer rather than iPhone. It may help someone else out in future.

Ok so I've changed the Hazard switch for a new one which has reduced the frequency ofthe clicking but not erradicated it entirely which leads me to believe that the switch was on its way out but not the cause. Since it only happens with the ingnition turned on then it leads me to believe the fault is IGN feed but I cannot find any shorts on this line and all voltages/currents are correct. The only thing I can think maybe the problem is the trailer socket so Im going to disconnect that now and see if it cures it. Beyond that I am lost.

My 200tdi was really suffering on performance. Tried changing the filters, checking pumps, different fuels etc. Then I found a small split in the bottom turbo hose. Replaced and is back to normal now. Check your turbo hoses.

I got all the parts for mine off ebay and a fan from a TVR. Works brilliantly.

The flasher relay on my 1988 110 is energising (clicking) all the time even when the hazards/indicators are not turned on. The strange thing is that the indicators are not coming on when it clicks. The indicators work fine when selected but when turned off again the relay continues to click. The clicking is not consistent as when the indicators are selected but instead erratic. If I turn my lights on it reduces the frequency of the clicking but it still does it occasionally. I put the M.meter across the light green and earth on the flasher relay and it always has 13v across it (with engine running) as it ony happens with the IGN on. If I turn the lights on it drops to 12.8v and it reduces the frequency of the clicking. I assumed this was due to a short cicuit so I pulled my landies wiring loom to pieces and sepreated all the wires but it still happens. I have checked all the indicator associated connections and cannot find a short there, so I am at a loss as to what else it could be. The only theory I have left is because it only happens with the IGN on there is a fault with the hazard switch across the Green - Light green connections but I have checked this with the m.meter too and it appears to be fine too. I have read the following article and all works fine. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=25376&st=0&p=537749&hl=hazard&fromsearch=1entry537749 BUT I CAN'T STOP THE CLICKING ITS DRIVING ME MAD!! Does anyone else have any thoughts?

Could be something simple like the accelerator rheostat needing replacement. If you are not getting above 2500 rpm then it seems like the acceleartor needs 'adjusting'.

Cheers Gents. Thats something else that can be pulled out then. I'm going for kill or cure at the moment. Any wiring that isn't doing anything is coming out! Rich

Hi, I have a 1988 110. I've had some electrical problems so decide to re-wire it. I've dismantled the dash board and discovered a component I don't recognise (see pics attached). It is located behind the dasboard instument cluster and has a connector wired into the loom but was not connected when I dismantled the dash. If I connect it, it turns the lights on regardless of whether they should be on or not. The lights are working fine (one of the few things that are) without it connected, but what is it? I assume it is some sort of relay, but I've never seen anything like it, and since the lights work without it, what is its purpose? Cheers, Rich

I had an early TD5 (1999) There were no additional speaker wires but there was the capability on the head unit. All I did was run the additional speaker wires directly from the head unit.

Cheers, I'll give that a try. Fairly sure its not a shortciruit or incorrect wiring. Had it apart several times to check. Using haynes manual as a guide. No chance of repairing the bump stops there is nothing left to repair! Does anyone know if it will fail an MOT without the rear bumpstops? Will have to fabricate something otherwise.

Hi, I have a 1988 110 that I am restoring but have a couple of issues with it. I bought it a couple of years ago but have since bought a house, changed jobs etc which has meant it has been parked up for most of that time. Since it has been parked up I seem to have lost most of the electrics. The wipers wern't working at all until I took the steering binacle/wiper stalk to pieces and now I can't get them to turn off at all. I have rear side lights, normal lights and brake lights and also normal front head lights and main beam but no front sidelights, indicators, rear fog or reversing light. I have checked all the fuses but they are all fine. Anyone got any ideas? The rear bump stop housing, the part that is welded/attached to the chassis has corroded away. Does anyone know the part number or where I can get replacements? Also I have given it a complete service but it is still a bit sluggish. It was when I parked it up 2 years ago, this isn't a new problem. I have put a 200tdi engine in to replace the old 2.5NA. I thought it may be the fuels filter but I have changed these and it is still sluggish. Any ideas? Cheers, Rich

Brilliant, Didn't want to start it and then find out I didn't have all the parts I need. Although to be fair that will probably happen anyway . Have already checked the tech archive and cannot find it. I'm sure it was in there though last time I looked. Cheers,

Hi, I have a 110 N/A to which I have fitted a 200tdi. The engine though did not have the PAS pump with it so I have since obtained a pump, steering box and resevoir. My question is will I need to alter or a new steering column and/or steering rods to fit the new steering box? Also I seem to remember a fairly detailed article on here a while ago showning how to go about fitting PAS to a series. Does anyone have the link to it? Cheers, Rich

Do you think I have the price right for my landy? http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=45747 It is a great runner but I don't seem to be getting much interest.

before you buy a new alternator (i had a similar experience) make sure the live feed from the ECU isn't shorting on the bulk head. I learn't this the hard way after buying a new alternator. If not I have a working alternator you could buy cheap.

Where abouts up north are you. I have a mate in huddersfield who builds em.

The less electronics the better.

My Td5 will do 45 MPH and 60 MPH in 3rd and 4th respectively any more than this and you would be over revving the engine. I would suspect that it is the rev limmiter that is stopping you. Although you should not be revving the engine that hard anyway.

P.S not the one who got stuck