pete3000
-
Posts
1,303 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
5
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by pete3000
-
-
Or get some 2-3mm aluminium plate and cut a new one with the jigsaw
-
2
-
-
I looked at those , but i read Gazzar is talking a tonne of fastenings
. From my experience the plastic ones are good for smaller sizes m3-m6 but you cant get much in them when you get up to m12x100. Think it was screwfix who do a nice metal carry case for their turbogold screws but the empty case sells for nearly as much as a full one.I used to work on site with fitters and they had a few of the divider cases, remember one day when they had been using them to fit a 19" rack out and one chap picks up the case by the handle not seeing the lid had only been dropped to. Much swearing ensued and about 2 hours of sorting out the m3/m4/m5/m6 contents on the floor. plain, washers, spring washers, serrated washers, nuts, nylocs, etc.
-
with the quantity and weight you are talking about, a metal industrial shelf unit with pull out drawer/box with divider set when you can remove and take away a bin or two at a time to the job.
i.e m8 nuts drawer/box and m8 bolt drawer/box. Not linbins they are just a faff.
something like this
-
had this on mates 90, if it looks too long to go to the stud where you have the other similar ring, it goes backwards along the rail and attaches to the small m8 bolt on the transferbox housing next the the mounting rubber. Trying to find a photo....
-
That and pikey's doing their window shopping when they are open........
. -
Nice, just wondering if you could get an early 2.5nad fan cowl to make the viscous fan a bit more succy near the rad? or fit an electric fan kit
-
Porch over the toy shop? lol
-
Is it dry ish round the becm area (under rhs front seat). repeat voltage tests here and have a look around the terminals going into the becm. With that many issues it could be an earth/supply problem. Thinking when you load up the fog lights it's cutting out for example.
The other area I looked at was the main fusebox (engine compartment) underside pcb traces which could have a dry joint i.e for relay or fuses feeding sub computers or items of interest.
There is more info on this over at Rangerovers.net.
http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/electrical/fusebox.html
http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/becm/
Particulary C623 (Ground)
-
-
It is on my 300tdi, 10mm nut with a slot for screwdriver. My filter is bolted to wing inner not on bulkhead
-
Good to hear, with the fuel stop solenoid unplugged, and the aid of an assistant crack the 10mm? fuel filter bleed nut open whilst cranking to see if you get fuel out of the filter housing. This means your lift pump is working pushing fuel to the injector pump. If you then put +12v onto the stop solenoid, and crank it should start with a puff of smoke. (if you haven't done anything with the preheat on the glowplugs yet)
-
if the relay is pulling in but not the solenoid, check the single red/white thickish wire plug at the rear of the engine is connected. Should make it's way to solenoid on starter motor
-
halfords do some in packs of 10 in their fasteners section
-
I added a twin mega fuse block to the bulkhead when i did the 300tdi conversion for this reason, I'd have to dig the circuit diagram of which fuse is which as the main brown into the dash area was previously unfused.
I tried to replicate the later blade fuse wiring aux fusebox from the 300tdi era
The fuses I have fitted are 60A and 80A fed from the starter motor one feed is 80A the other is 60A protected. Think the wire is 4 or 6mm from memory
-
Seems only sensible. I'll get a mega fuse holder with ring terminals to do the job, but what size fuse would be sensible to use?
Assume a fairly standard setup, with radio. Other accessories (spot lights, ARB compressor, eberspacher) will be separately fused.
How big is the wire downstream? before it leaves for the other fused feeds?
-
When I had my tub off the 110 i "made" some nut plates to cover these 2 bolts on the back of the seatbox.
Take a measurement between centres and get a piece of 3mm steel plate drill two holes (and weld a couple of nuts on). Simples
-
Resolved this hopefully, there are two black 3 pin green/black econoseals going backwards from bulkhead. (one to the fuel tank on short loom) and one which goes in loom to rear of LR through chassis. The one to rear if mated only the centre wire follows through, the outside wires are opposite sides of the mated shell. (not connected).
So logic dictates this other connector is not used. Thinking it is for a rear tank version or a nas spec. From memory a 3 pin econoseal pops out by rear crossmember along with a round 2 pin socket which is also not used.
-
If the pump is running (happens when engine is on, or for a set time door is opened with engine off) and the block is ticking then it is actively trying to push air into the system to inflate/adjust the airbags.
If this isn't rising, then you need to look where air is escaping from (best done with engine off). It could be that your air tank or pipe into it is split. Or it could be a loose pipe to it from the valve block.
Or if you have had 1 air spring fail, the car will try to remain level, so lowers the other 3 springs until on bumpstops.
The 35mph max is limp mode when the P38 EAS goes bad to get you home. You may need to clear this with the free EAS unlock software and a made cable.
check the other info on http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/4468-info-eas-troubleshooting-tips.html
-
MJA 4x4 or Churchill 4x4 both independents near Bromsgrove/Redditch, Hogan Bros over at Lakeside have old school LR/ Austin knowledge, good guys, but can be busy as they do MOT work.
MM4x4 bit further out towards Droitwitch, they understand parts needs i.e certain brands and have a workshop.
-
Guess no one has come across this one then, I'll trace it back from the cluster at the weekend, at least it's in the dry.......
-
In final stages of helping a mate rebuild his 90, we ran into a minor "wheres that go then" moment on Saturday. 90 300tdi with 2 wire fuel sender green and black spade connectors on tank. (ok with this bit
It's the two wire version with the end spade blanked off with a red bung). Then a short piece of loom from this around 4-5 feet long then finished in a black econoseal connector.
Does anyone have any idea where the other econoseal end from the gauges drops out, we have the multiplugs on the bulkhead but can't track the fuel sender plug down.
TIA
Pete
-
I like that, add 1 or 2 led strip lights and you have an all weather, day/night lid.
-
Nice work -
I have given up watching TV at the moment as it's so rubbish.
Instead I find that I watch videos on YouTube. In particular I have come across a chap in the USA called Keith Fenner who has a channel with a lot of videos on his job making and fixing stuff. Mainly it's using his old lathe and milling machine, with a lot of torch and TIG welding or brazing thrown in.
Makes me want a lathe and a mill, as well as learning how to TIG.
Now I need a bigger garage, or workshop!
Here you go Dunc another few hours of quality lathe/metal action from John aka Doubleboost. The guy is a master craftsman IMHO.
https://www.youtube.com/user/doubleboost/videos
Pete
. From my experience the plastic ones are good for smaller sizes m3-m6 but you cant get much in them when you get up to m12x100. Think it was screwfix who do a nice metal carry case for their turbogold screws but the empty case sells for nearly as much as a full one.
.
Nice work
Second Alt can't shut my bonnet.
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Have you got a picture? i'll try and get one tonight of mine 24v in a/c position. shouldn't be anywhere near bonnet...
The OE bracket is a flat plate with no tensioner, i.e four holes to bolt to timing cover then two at 90 degrees to take the A127 style 24v alternator.
The belt tensioning is done with an a/c idler and offset pulley in the injection pump timing hole. then uses a standard a/c belt