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pete3000

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Posts posted by pete3000

  1. +1 for bottle jack with a saddle, if you have the chassis type jack or farm jack, they are very useful for some things. Changing a wheel isn't one of them.

    You'll end up lifting the body off the axle till the wheel/ axle is hanging off the flexi brake pipe or the bottom of the shock absorber (not cool). Unless you use a dislocation strap or chain :ph34r: mmm specialist.

  2. Hi All,

    I would like to implement the electrically levelling lights as per the defenders on my project. Wiring looks simple and I've seen a few all in (bowls, frames, lights, motor) kits such as http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/408645/0/headlamp_self_leveling_rhd_defender

    I was looking to run the Wipac Crystals following recommendations on here. Is there much difference in use between them and lights in the link? I guess most people are comparing new to old?

    Does any one know of someone selling complete sets like the one above with the crystals?

    I'm creating a custom loom for my truck so there will be no problem with voltage drop to the lights. I will be running halogens rather than HID.

    Thanks.

    i have these on mine for last 7-8 years without problem, big difference to sealed beam candles i had before. Running halfords super brilliance 55/60w bulbs (not blue or yellow)

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Wipac-S6071-Crystal-clear-lens-headlamps-E-mkd-inc-halogen-bulbs-/150641711617

    they were sold as bemp2 or something similar

  3. not as far as i can see, the gas is at pressure already albeit fairly low. The air is compressed from atmosphere to produce a pressurised of air to be mixed with the natural gas which then combined burns hotter.

    A bunsen burner uses the gas to draw air from atmosphere into a tube to burn combined to produce the blue flame. This does effectively the same but the air is compressed to be mixed with the natural gas.

    However the whole thing could need an overhaul and regular safety check for blow back valves, cutoffs and the diaphragm etc. Probably not worth the faff, when you could buy a disposable set from screwfix.

    The hearth looks useful though, with some firebricks and heatproof sheets.

  4. pump to add pressure to blue hose, so forced air and gas. To be honest it's a bit of a liability. I'd rip out the gas bits/motor/etc and use the stand with the fire bricks etc. Scrap the moving parts and buy an oxy/propane set for brazing.

    Pete

  5. I repaired a similar erbauer one after the spindle snagged in a dust sheet and stalled the motor, which let the smoke out of the handle. :mellow:

    As someone says take the speed cont out of cicuit and try 230v across the motor for a second or two, you lose the speed control and soft start.

    If this works my bet is the scr/triac is a gonner. See if you can get a part number of the black transistor like package (3 legs)

    or post a pic/model number of router

  6. +1 for Ashcroft transmissions, we've used them for diy swap on transfer box then a drive in swap on the auto mainbox. (their drive in service price included a hire car and fluids). Which was a nice day out at bletchley park. Not sure if there is a garage close to you who could do the work (noticed you'd quoted euros)

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