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pete3000

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Posts posted by pete3000

  1. MJA 4x4 or Churchill 4x4 both independents near Bromsgrove/Redditch, Hogan Bros over at Lakeside have old school LR/ Austin knowledge, good guys, but can be busy as they do MOT work.

    MM4x4 bit further out towards Droitwitch, they understand parts needs i.e certain brands and have a workshop.

  2. In final stages of helping a mate rebuild his 90, we ran into a minor "wheres that go then" moment on Saturday. 90 300tdi with 2 wire fuel sender green and black spade connectors on tank. (ok with this bit

    It's the two wire version with the end spade blanked off with a red bung). Then a short piece of loom from this around 4-5 feet long then finished in a black econoseal connector.

    Does anyone have any idea where the other econoseal end from the gauges drops out, we have the multiplugs on the bulkhead but can't track the fuel sender plug down.

    TIA

    Pete

  3. I have given up watching TV at the moment as it's so rubbish.

    Instead I find that I watch videos on YouTube. In particular I have come across a chap in the USA called Keith Fenner who has a channel with a lot of videos on his job making and fixing stuff. Mainly it's using his old lathe and milling machine, with a lot of torch and TIG welding or brazing thrown in.

    Makes me want a lathe and a mill, as well as learning how to TIG.

    Now I need a bigger garage, or workshop!

    Here you go Dunc another few hours of quality lathe/metal action from John aka Doubleboost. The guy is a master craftsman IMHO.

    https://www.youtube.com/user/doubleboost/videos

    Pete

  4. +1 for bottle jack with a saddle, if you have the chassis type jack or farm jack, they are very useful for some things. Changing a wheel isn't one of them.

    You'll end up lifting the body off the axle till the wheel/ axle is hanging off the flexi brake pipe or the bottom of the shock absorber (not cool). Unless you use a dislocation strap or chain :ph34r: mmm specialist.

  5. Hi All,

    I would like to implement the electrically levelling lights as per the defenders on my project. Wiring looks simple and I've seen a few all in (bowls, frames, lights, motor) kits such as http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/408645/0/headlamp_self_leveling_rhd_defender

    I was looking to run the Wipac Crystals following recommendations on here. Is there much difference in use between them and lights in the link? I guess most people are comparing new to old?

    Does any one know of someone selling complete sets like the one above with the crystals?

    I'm creating a custom loom for my truck so there will be no problem with voltage drop to the lights. I will be running halogens rather than HID.

    Thanks.

    i have these on mine for last 7-8 years without problem, big difference to sealed beam candles i had before. Running halfords super brilliance 55/60w bulbs (not blue or yellow)

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Wipac-S6071-Crystal-clear-lens-headlamps-E-mkd-inc-halogen-bulbs-/150641711617

    they were sold as bemp2 or something similar

  6. not as far as i can see, the gas is at pressure already albeit fairly low. The air is compressed from atmosphere to produce a pressurised of air to be mixed with the natural gas which then combined burns hotter.

    A bunsen burner uses the gas to draw air from atmosphere into a tube to burn combined to produce the blue flame. This does effectively the same but the air is compressed to be mixed with the natural gas.

    However the whole thing could need an overhaul and regular safety check for blow back valves, cutoffs and the diaphragm etc. Probably not worth the faff, when you could buy a disposable set from screwfix.

    The hearth looks useful though, with some firebricks and heatproof sheets.

  7. pump to add pressure to blue hose, so forced air and gas. To be honest it's a bit of a liability. I'd rip out the gas bits/motor/etc and use the stand with the fire bricks etc. Scrap the moving parts and buy an oxy/propane set for brazing.

    Pete

  8. I repaired a similar erbauer one after the spindle snagged in a dust sheet and stalled the motor, which let the smoke out of the handle. :mellow:

    As someone says take the speed cont out of cicuit and try 230v across the motor for a second or two, you lose the speed control and soft start.

    If this works my bet is the scr/triac is a gonner. See if you can get a part number of the black transistor like package (3 legs)

    or post a pic/model number of router

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