pete3000
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Posts posted by pete3000
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an intermittent wipe kit would be what you are after for the loss of function, velleman kits used to sell one through maplin in the uk, but now most cars have an int wipe they may have stopped producing them. ebay may throw up a kit.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/k2599-intermittent-wiper-controller-ve03d
or a relay could be linked to your stalk? via western's post http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=927
or
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irwin bimetal or eclipse for the hacksaw, irwin orange woodsaws are a cut above as well
The bandsaw blades i get from tuffsaws
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or possible {edited by HFH}....
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Very nice truck, should be spacious compared to the 110. Cooking wise, If you are keeping the 24v system and buying spares (re: other post) investigate a 24v ration heater off ebay. Essentially a warmer upper/boiler for rations, useful if you don't want the fumes/gas or can't venture outside due to dust/rain
similar to this
can get them from £15-20 upwards in uk (as not many peeps have got 24v).
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Probably stating the obvious but hiding info which would give your truck a home would be wise, i.e plant some random false stickers or paperwork to throw them off. Did you have harper off road or uni car park etc stickers in?
Social media doesn't help with clues being available from photos public profiles, or youtube vids.
be as vague as possible.......with a smattering of dis-information
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Let's see weldy bits in action then
Not the whiteboard obviously, just need to write "buy more beer" "plasters" and "bacon sarnies" in permanent pen at the top.
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Personally speaking
Motivational factors: learning, improving, seeing a finished job that has been done properly.
Motivations: because I can, it needs doing or improving, playing with tools/breaking out the workshop toys.
Having great mates who will generally push you along physically and mentally to get on with it. Can be a bit like having a gym membership you never use? more likely to go and get on with it if you feel you will be letting someone else down by not doing it. Letting yourself down by not doing something can become a habit where you think, tomorrow will be fine. Tomorrow never comes.
So setting a date where mates turn up for lifting, drinking tea, spannering, fitting, painting and thinking can be highly productive. The best thing you can do in return is the same on their projects. Think you'd have to be pretty OCD or dedicated/focused to do everything without and help or input, not to say it's impossible but it's easier with mates.
Pete
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Think FoMoCo/JLR have some "issues" as the focus and fiesta ST seem to be disappearing as well at the minute, the advice seems to be hide your OBDII socket and fit additional security both physical and immobiliser.
Guessing it's the same sort of vulnerability on keyless start.
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It is entirely possible to convert it to 12v, after all it's a defender. The main reason you would want to is for part availability. i.e you can't get 24v bulbs from halfords. A wolf blower motor or wiper motor when they do occasionally come up are going for £200 upwards each on ebay. Dealer prices will make your eyes water. 24v relays are another hard to find.
24v alternators and starter motors may be difficult to source also. Technically the 24v alternator is 24v because of the regulator pack......but the starter can't be changed.
I run 12v and 24v on my mil defender, 12v for the LR body/lights wiring and the 24v feeds the military radio kit and runs my inverter and 24v eberspacher. The systems share a common ground but run on seperate batteries.
I have 4 batteries, 2 running in parallel (from the 12v alternator) in the seat box with a national luna split charge kit for 12v, then 2 in series running off a 24v wolf alternator which sits in the aircon position on top of the engine.
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if it's a 24v pure pulse ambulance, pretty much every electrical component which draws current is 24v. i.e any/all bulbs, wiper motor, blower motor, heated mirrors, horn, relays, glow plug timer, glow plugs, both? alternators, starter motor, eberspacher heater, any ecu's if it's got an electronic egr unit.
levelling headlights motors are 24v, and starter relay
The standard switches and wiring loom will be the same as 12v. it's just carrying a voltage
Blue light and siren circuit will be 24v, along with any illuminated switch tell tales and the hazard unit relay.
Think there is a 24-12v regulator for the fuel sender, not sure about the temp sender and gauge.
To fit or use any 12v items you will need a dropper 24v-12v, i.e cigarette lighter plug will deliver 24v, trailer socket will be 24v (so anything you tow will need 24v bulbs)
on a positive note you will be able to start puma/lynx helicopters
Pete
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Just an idea, could you get a machine shop or friendly engineer to build up the wear with tig/mig, then bore the Inside Diameter on the lathe, then broach/mill a new keyway. That is if the damper is good....
Pete
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Prefer to use better spacers than that if you have the skills/time. by matching the contour of the caliper bracket and having them cut professionally they will be a much better job. Less chance of mud/rust blowing it apart. Not too sure what the copper grease brings to the party?
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I'm not suggesting you do this....... but for a slight touch of the brakes on a private road....... could you swap the left front to right front sensor input to the ecu ad see if the fault code goes with the swap. This would the rule out the ecu if it does or leave the fault at the right front wheel area.
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http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=60726&hl=
this will be a good read....... plenty of info read the detail, 2 general routes earlier wide spaced bearings or replace the lot with 300tdi parts. If you've got the 200tdi drums already I'd personally go wider spaced bearings (use your stub axles and buy some FRC6139 front hubs), stc1268 stc1269 calipers? the 300tdi disc guards don't fit anyway.
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They are rare beasts in the wild, had you thought about an ex electric board quadtech bodied 130, or one like Fridge's? Less spendy.
http://www.exmod.co.uk/defender130.html
Around £15k probably do with more headroom though
In my experience the 24v bits are rare to get for wolf's the necessary bits (wolf wiper motor, wolf alternator) are overpriced, whilst add on truck parts like night heaters are cheaper.
The rarest and most expensive parts on the wolfs apart from the bling bits are the HD rear axle, and the chassis, and in the pulse ambulance case repairs to the box body.
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Wasn't meant to offend Simon
, just being realistic if there were an accident resulting from failure of materials at speed the insurance companies would have a field day. Even fitting certain mods or different wheels tyres can be enough to prevent your insurance paying out in case of a crash. The OP was asking about grades sizes of chain etc and was asking for advice or suggestions, my suggestion is to buy a type approved set and use them if needed. I'm the first to try and make/modify things but some things I know I'd personally leave well alone.That being said I'm sure it can be done well with enough info, but for the time and energy involved is it worth it?.
I'm sure there will be more advice and suggestions, each to their own, and this is what makes the forum enjoyable and worthwhile
Pete
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buy them, it's safer, cheaper, insurance approved TUV specs etc etc. You won't fall foul of damaging the road, other road users or your car.
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I'd suggest if you were low you when you filled up you may have washed some crud from the bottom of the tank into your pickup pipe in the tank.
Back flush the pipes and change the filter. As a temp measure you could lift the sender/pickup out of the tank and stick it in a jam jar of diesel. If it drinks and runs ok You may need to get creative with tank cleaning
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Tips, midge spray and a net.
Kinlochleven is 10 minutes away from Fort William.. and probably cheaper, we stayed here, family owned. http://www.macdonaldhotel.co.uk/
The cabins are good value as they offered a midge free experience over camping, the food, drink and hospitality was second to none. The campsite is small but popular with biking/walkers.
They have a scruffs bar for the camping guys/backpackers and a restaurant for the smart dressed/guests of hotel. The do specialty ales and fresh cooked food.
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can you take the hose off from the air cleaner to the inlet of the turbo and see if the turbo is spinning up? not sure on the p38a. Could be a wastegate is stuck open via a seized pushrod or linkage if it's just packed in with no warning.
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If you continue to have random brakes or strange pedal, it could be a duff master cylinder straight out of the (blue?) box.
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faster than a Waxoyled cat range? and a box for writing your name in case you a) forget it b) are unconscious for varoius reasons. Oh and your blood group so you can have a transfusion at A&E.
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If there is a constant stream of bubbles when bleeding the fuel filter, then I'd say you've found the problem. Could be as easy as a new filter (top rubber seal or lower water drain is perished or open). Other than that you may have a line problem on the feed, i.e is the pipe rubbed through on the chassis? or is your pickup/unions on the tank corroded through?. Is there any evidence of a slight diesel leak underneath along the fuel line or under the filter?
, just being realistic if there were an accident resulting from failure of materials at speed the insurance companies would have a field day. Even fitting certain mods or different wheels tyres can be enough to prevent your insurance paying out in case of a crash. The OP was asking about grades sizes of chain etc and was asking for advice or suggestions, my suggestion is to buy a type approved set and use them if needed. I'm the first to try and make/modify things but some things I know I'd personally leave well alone.
Wiper Problems, any ideas ?
in Discovery Forum
Posted
Yes sorry should have mentioned the lack of park working, the int wiper kit overides the (working park switch) to cause it to run again. Hence why the OP has a constant wiper. My brother had a mini 20 odd years ago and drove 150 odd miles with the wipers running when turned off. Once he ran out of screen wash the wipers were pretty worn.
I butchered the park switch and spliced an industrial microswitch in, it lasted years and years, unlike the rest of the BL parts/body shell LOL