Soren Frimodt

I'm not sure I understand your last line there mate We are not planning on gearing it at the motors, that simply isn't possible if we want to have two motors side by side. The distance would be to great to be able have both motors there. Now try to bare with me on this, I only know the english I was taught in school: The intermediate gear that the motors connect to via their gears (the one you can disengage) is splined over another gear which is the the same spline all the way through. This connects to a larger gear in the lower housing. This gear is the one we want to change so that it would have two different sized splines. One that the intermediate gear still fits on, and one that is larger so that we will have to space up the tophousing and get a taller gearing. Was that understandable? Otherwise great idea regarding the plastigauge haven't thought of that, but I then think we would make it a bit to thin instead and make the correct thickness gasket to shim it. exactly the same way you get the correct squish out of a dirtbike engine

Exactly what we are planing to do Timmy But we are on the look for someone to do it at a proper price

Thank you Simon much to kind. All we need now is to save up some money for yet a couple of motors. But we are having a hard time finding someone to make the gears for us to gear up the winch (Well for the kind of money we are prepared to spend that is) And it really is a shame cos we will have no use of all this power unless we can gear it up somehow. But I would wonder if time wouldn't present a solution of some sorts

Looking nice, but there isn't much extra support in those pieces of thin metal are there? Would like to see some triangulation and thicker/more material. Otherwise nice setup, and you'll love the portals in the mud, keep it up!

The Torqueflite is an extremely durable piece of kit. Can easy cope with many HP's and a large torque. Only downsides are the clonky gearchange (compared to the 4 Speed ZF) And lack of the extra gear and lockup function. But if you are building a mean offroader with not much weight on comfort it's a good alternative, they are DIRT cheap and easy to find. Here's my buddy Mog/LR hybrid where the torqueflite is mated with a Mog gearbox and running a 4,6 Rover V8 on karb spitting out around the 300bhp mark: http://www.obelixen.dk/projekt%20r%C3%A6ser/

Me Dad had bought an old Series 3 88", saturday. And although much time and money was spend on extra's (X-eng brake, turner head, weber intake kit etc etc) It was a right mess. NOTHING electrical worked, and when you cranked the engine on the key it wouldn't start until you let the key go where the inertia of the flywheel would barely kick it to life (wouldn't have done that with a diesel!) So all of sunday was spend fixing the mess the previous owner had left. Got most sorted and now just waiting to get a new alternator and a new switch for hi/lo beam. Also had a go at starting it on the starter handle, surprisingly easy and a funny experience

Thank you Henk, just the measures we needed So basically you wouldn't be able to use RR/defender shafts without making the spacers different lengths, and therefore getting one wheel further out than the other. Not ideal i suppose

Yes of course there is a good reason. But the way I see it their problem could be because the front motor is just hanging off the adaptor that is bolted to the housing. I could imagine this could be a problem. But because we have a support at the rearmost of the engine, this will not be an issue. But I suppose next time we'll just machine a complete housing if it turns out to be a problem. Again as this is only for our own use, it doesn't matter that much if there's errors to be corrected. We couldn't do everything ourselves though, today we just supported Gigglepin by buying one of there uprated mainshafts really looks nice I must say, nice piece of craftsmanship. Now we just have to see if it can be broken

Well, we couldn't stop here could we? We've now made it the early Gigglepin way and are now looking to fit 4 motors instead. And ofcourse we are also looking at gearing it now, even with just two motors we had plenty of power for a higher gearing. So thats next on the list.

Oh and another thing Morten. If you fit a RR frontaxle and then throw on some series 1/2 rims when seeing the beloved MOT man, would you not get away with it? I think you might as they push in the wheels quite a lot, then you would just be running series 3 rims in the back with maybe a small spacer and it wouldn't look too bad would it? Of course you would need to find an MOT place that isn't very familiar with the old landys

Good question Henk. I'not sure it will be, if you look under a defender the diff seems to very close to the righthandside. I have no measures to back this up though and could easily be wrong. Morten: Are you sure that if you use those arms, you will clear the springs? My brother has a TD5 frontaxle on his 90" And I've had the same idea when looking at it, but have never measured if they would clear the leaf.

Yes Nick, they might be stronger and more reliable. BUT parts cost A LOT compared LR and no matter how well engineered a vehicle is, it will break when you use it offroad, even my Mog does this frequently and it's built outrageously strong! And then there are the rust, rust and then a bit more rust. Of course a landy does this aswell but atleast the parts that are aluminum can't rust, and the chassis isn't the size of a twig. I'd say a 90 of some sorts, the best out-of-the-box offroader. IF very tight budget then a 88 with a couple of mods is almost as capable as a 90, but a bit harder to steer etc.

Oh Its never a good idea to spend too much time with Ole. He messes up your mind, and gives you weird ideas Well the easiest way I see to fitting RR axles if you choose that path is by doing a SOA setup. There are two obvious disadvantages by this as far as I see: 1 Being the height, but if you find/make some quite flat springs and even move the mount up into the axle housing you should up with what could be a normal lift. 2 Being axle wrap, but since thats already a problem it should be prevented anyways. There are a number of ways to do this. But the advantages are obvious. MUCH easier mounting of RR axle and better clearance under the springs so you won't get humiliated by all the coilers driving past you in the mud cos you're stuck on the b***dy spring perches. Keep cracking on the idea and keep us posted, it all helps keeping the mind warm in these cold winterdays

Looking good! You definitely have your work cut out for you there, but a great bit of learning the Series is, and you will absolutely adore it when you get it finished. Crack on

Interesting Bill, I have always admired the simplicity and ruggedness of the Tracta joint. But haven't seen or heard of any people using them so I assumed they where carp. But you don't think so? I think they are quite clever and suitable for permanent 4wd aswell right?

Hehe your quite right FF, but I really don't think you would be able to find any of these things that would fit the vehicle. I haven't seen any cars having either wipers nor a heater blower that looked similar. The Mogs are quite odd actually

Well I've only driven one of the engines myself that has done this. But all three are below 30K km. So if you have to re-torque your cylinderhead more often than that I would say serious engineering fault!

I actually think that is quite a lot to have to get rewound isn't it? It can't be cheap. And you will not be able to use the starter off of a 12V Merc car. They don't fit, been there done that. There is actually a lot of sense in keeping it 24V, It really works and the only time you have problems with it is when you need to change a bulb, they are not just around the corner. But regarding 24V-12V converter, When I got my Mog it had just such a beast for the ignition as there was fitted the ignition off of a saloon car. It had no problem coping with the draw of the ignition coil, but ofcourse you have more than just that in this case.

I like your thinking mate! Look what i've done to the same tyrepattern as yours! This is defo the way to do it, I've won competitions one these tyres on my landy and no matter what off the shelf tyre i put under my landy, they are simply outperformed by my old MPT's (offroad only). Mine are only 900x16" though. (notice the sidegrooves) As to M130 I really don't know, they are terribly hard to come by and every time one has popped up on ebay.de I haven't had the money. I have no experience with the M130 although I know its construction is very similar to the M180. It has way better numbers though and I would love to get one for my Mog. So if you want to keep it rather standard looking I would say go for an M130. It's easy to drop in just make sure you get one with carbs not injection, though they perform even better they are simply to big to stuff in there.

Thanks. Well TBH I don't think I would go through all that trouble on the M180 engine. It really isn't one of Mercedes' best achievements. If your going to be running this engine be prepared to change headgaskets every now and then. I know I have an M180 aswell and although it was the easiest way for me to gain extra hp, if I had known back then what i do now I wouldn't have fitted it. I have no less than three more or less complete 2,2L M180 engines with blown headgaskets laying around. But ofcourse if it's something you really want to do then I wont stop you, I just think that maybe your time/money could be better spent. If you have seen my thread in the Members Vehicles Forum you will have seen that I have been working on a Turbo'ed M180. But I have dropped this project completely 'cause I have lost all trust in the M180.

Well welcome to the Mog world then! Enjoy your stay, and remember although the 404 seems simple, it takes all sorts of special tools to do even the smallest repairs when it comes to the drivetrain. If your used to old Landys you'll be surprised! Re: Injection have seen this?: http://www.raawfab.com/product_installations_and_f/electronic_fuel_injection_f.html

Oh an I have an absolute softspot for LWB PU leafers with the sparetyre in the well at the side of the load bed, it looks marvelous

That there NightTrain, is the prettiest Land-Rover ever!

Steve don't know if this is of any help, but did what you could call the opposite. I mounted the housing off of TDI axle with a 24 spline airlock (RD128) into my series axle casing along with the series R&P. I just made a hole to fill in the oil using a nut and a bolt. as simple as that! Don't worry about the other nut it is for my airlock bulkhead thiny because I didn't have the right tap for the threads.

Hi Morten, nice to see another Dane on here I've been at the same point as you are right now. I looked at all possibilities and really came to the conclusion that the best and cheapest solution is fitting the disk brake kit from Zeus engineering. you must remember that it includes NEW calipers, discs and pads. Remember to add all this into your calculations! And then there is the point that you save LOADS of hassle and mucking about. And getting one-off parts made is like wetting your pants the moment you need new parts. And the fact about the UJ's being weak, well it's a hard question. The HUGE advantage of the UJ is that it isn't weaker at an angle like the CV, I've even killed Nissan GR's when they tried to follow my little 88". I just banged the wheel at full lock into the bank to make the turning circle as tight as possible in a rut, and did it several times, when it was his turn it made the classical grrrrrrrrr sound AND on same tyre size I might add. Another fact about the std series shaft/UJ setup is that they are absolutely EVERYWHERE in Denmark as you probably know. So remember; keep it simple, easy to repair and easy to acquire parts for. The landrover way!