Soren Frimodt

Well as topic. One of the weak spots on a defender 110 is the rear corners due to the massive overhang. Since I'm out of job at the moment I can't afford to go buy stuff like that. Anyhow i believe I can make it stronger myself. So work began today. Fairly simple design using 48mm tube. It's hard to tell by the pictures, but I cut the tube at the same angle as the flares, so as to be able to bolt them to the tube from the inside and get a nice and tidy look. I have only made one mounting bracket on them today but of course more will be added tomorrow to keep it hanging onto the vehicle

I found, when I did my swivels, that the new seal from Paddocks was WAY to small in the outside diameter. This meant that when I tightened the metalplate that secures it in a rotating manner it just pushed the seal around and when I was done tightening it sat VERY offset in the hole. So I loosened it all up, did the usual 12-6-3-9 exercise and it was all nice and smooth round the swivel ball. This could be your problem? I have a mate that never could get his "paddock" seal tight so he ended up buying OEM. And when I talked to him about what I had found out he said: "of course, thats what happened with mine" The OEM ones fit perfectly in the hole in the swivelhousing.

Looks like your in need of some portals there HFH

Me like! I could use a pair for my 110, it looks absolutely amazing!

So Rog, how's it going with this project? I'm dying to hear more about it, did you decide to EDIS your Mog?

Simon I really think there are no real alternative to galvanising and understand your pain. But if it is possible and you are up for it, I think you should weld the parts together.

Exactly how I test it on our metal-welding bench at work! Slow burn and poor ignition equals old fuel! Also if you have a feeling theres oil in your petrol, ie somebody "accidently" put motor-oil in it, and the engine therefore keeps flooding the sparkplugs. Just let a bit of it on fire and if you are left with a pool of sticky white bubbly oil, thats your problem

I fix Motorcycles and scooters for a living and see this problem all the time. Petrol does go off, and as mentioned above it doesn't seem to have that much effect on larger vehicles such as cars. But it seems as though the smaller the engine the more fragile it is. For instance; if I have scooter with a tiny bit of water in the petroltank it won't run properly. But if I put this water/petrol mixture in my V8. which is also on carbs, it just rumbles on. Same goes with old petrol. I have cleaned/flushed many imported motorcycles that simply would not start on old petrol. So the science may say otherwise but I've tried a million times.

I did it in my driveway with no help from anybody except my brother driving the Fergie when lifting the engine-gearbox combo. See it here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=47758&st=0&p=435822&fromsearch=1entry435822 VERY easy job, nothing to get excited about really, hard labor, but very straightforward.

You tried mailing them?

Looking forward

My brother has had a similar one for years but just sold it along with his winch. It practically doesn't wear at all and does, as stated, glide nicely against the rope because of the lubricating effect. So I would say go for it! It also might be worth mentioning that the rope he had was of a type I haven't seen elsewhere, but don't remember where he got it believe it was through Oddballrover on here. It had a protective layer ALL the way which made it very durable but sadly also quite expensive. When he bought it some years back he payed in excess of 10 quid per meter.

Probably the best looking LR for years imo. Wonder how long it'll take before someone shoves a RRC chassis under it

Uhh looking VERY good mate, I can see the portal housings are completely interchangeable, even the bolt holes for the caliper bracket! Nice craftmanship indeed. So what are the calipers and brakediscs off then?

Well a series 2 has to have this lovely crunching. It will be so in both first and second gear because these are not synchronized. Only way to get rid of this feature is by swapping the box with one from a series 3. But you get use to it so dont let that put you off a possible purchase

Undoubtably one of the best offroad-carnage pictures I've ever seen! And the look on your face just dot's the i.

Well I didn't "weaken" the braking power on my S2. I still enhanced it by fitting this compared to stock. And so would Retroanaconda do if he installed this setup. But as I wrote, looking back on it I'm not sure it matters that much as the weight is mostly at the rearwheels. But it is simpler to do it the way I did because you use the same wheel cylinder as it does on the stock brake setup.

Okay I see. Well I've never looked into it that much as I knew I didn't want the TLS setup. So you could consider doing it the way I did it if you are worried about the braking power when going backwards. But if I am to be honest I don't see it as that much of a problem since all the weight will be on your rear wheels anyway.

I'm not sure they had the twin leading shoe setup as per 109's did they? Didn't they just have an 11" version of the normal 88" setup? The same as fitted to a 109 Rearend? Anyhow that's what I fitted in front on my 88" series 2 and it helped a lot on the stopping power. I installed this kit exactly because I did not want the double leading setup from the 109" because of poor brake quality in reverse.

Another solution could be a taller and narrower drum. Although not so easy to do because of the way the winches are build, it would work though. But of course you would have a lot of variation in speed. But in many ways, the best setup must be the one off of a 101. It's brilliant

Haha you are so irritatingly right about the Mog, it is SO ready of the box and it can go anywhere, and there's grease nipples for EVERY moving part. Yet I have managed to spend loads of money on mine, tuning, tweaking, rethinking and so on. I now almost seem to have forgotten how good it actually was when I started. WHY won't I ever learn! Well anyways suppose it's because it really is what I love doing so I better keep doing it

But the funny thing is though, the more you build and fabricate yourself, the more you enjoy doing this, and the less you enjoy driving! In the beginning you had tonnes of fun driving a stock (stuck ) series with nothing else than some semi offroad tires. Then it progressed quickly, and before you noticed, you are spending more and more time in the workshop and less time in the mud.. A disturbing thought..

Well FF I think you might consider that Oilworker didn't do the job himself. And maybe this is a cheaper solution to HIM than paying for volvo/mog axles and THEN have someone converting them. Anyways I hear there's a problem finding some steering rod end for those volvo portals, and I know from my own experience that the Mogs aren't the most off the shelve axle when it comes to parts, even though it is very popular around the world. I do for one see the great thing in bolt on portals, and have been considering making some myself out of Mog portals, which the way I would do it would also allow a much tighter turning radius. Haven't got around to it yet though

Thank you for your input Timmy, and you are right it isn't absolutely necessary to space the the two motors even more apart, we could just have a smaller gear made up in the middle this way the motors would sit at the same spot, and so would the center gear. But again this still leaves us with clearance issues at the motors. But I'm not sure you completely understand how it looks on the inside, the way we are planning to do it will only require one gear to be made larger and that is not in the lowerhousing, the large gear in the lowerhousing connects to a gear in the upper housing, and it is this I would make larger, hence moving the tophousing upwards. Nothing explains better than some pictures though. These are the gears I'm on about, and the smaller one, is the one I want made larger:

Yes indeed looking good, the great thing about fitting portals with a gearing is that you significantly lower the stress on the rest of your drivetrain components, it's just like fitting very small wheels, but without the clearance issue Those resplined CV's and shaft's, where did they come from? I suppose he resplined some off the shelve parts?