Soren Frimodt

Just what I was thinking. With the Gigglepin you get to inputshafts into the winch, one for each motor. This one doubles the stress on the one shaft. But If nobody has have any problems with this, I would prefer this to the gigglepin. No Hydraulic is not a dirty word, atleast in my book. But when you already have a 8274, and is quite pleased with it, but whant just a tad more power I think dual motor is a better solution. Anyways Hydraulics wheighs more, and in my experience every kilo you remove your car handles better in every sort of terrain. yes I've heard of this guy in Oz. Would really like to see his winch go!

So does anyone have any sort of experience with this setup: http://images.google.dk/imgres?imgurl=http...DN%26start%3D42 I quite like the idea as it dosn't affect the gearing. and looks VERY simple to install! But what is the downside? Except for the price tag? And even better can someone provide some detailing pictures of this? Ex. how do you couple the shaft in the dual adaptor to the rear end of the shaft on the inner motor? Thanks

Very interesting indeed! To me it looks like ordinary RR classic driveflanges, but as Bill says, it looks as though it has series like drainplugs at the bottom of the diff's, maybe some early RR's had this?

Yes indeed, no prob's at all

Did the exact same thing on my 88" to get the same bumper level as a Defender. But in turn that gives me a much better approach angle than Defenders because my frontaxle sits more towards the front.

And what I forgot: i use a Defender TDI diff casing (so that I don't have to mess around with bearing spacing, metric vs imperial) And simply put the series pinion in it. On the airlocker/crownwheel I use a spacer like others. You would be able to this aswell with a landrover 4pin diff.

Hi all. Just as Ole i run the RD128 airlocker (new type 24 spline) in the rear. Not having a fat wallet, I decided to use as many stock landrover parts as possible. So both my rear halfshafts are standard landrover items, "how can you do that?" I hear you all say. Well.. On the right hand side you can fit a 110" drum braked rear sal's righthand side halfshaft. All you have to do is machine the surface for the axle seal down as there is no room for this inside the stub axle. So from now on this side wont break On the left hand side I simply took the late type 88" halfshaft, which has 24 spline outer and 10 spline inner, and turned it the other way round! Now this would obviosly cause a weakspot by the 10 spline end. But as this is now the outer end it will be very easy to replace. So I simply took a spare halfshaft with me so I could change it in a matter of min's. But I've now been running this setup for a year with 2,5TD engine and 900x16 tyres and haven't popped a single shaft, letalone twisted one! I'm not super light fooded, but I apply a certain amount of mechanical sympathy.

I'd say about 2600kg

Hmm.. I think he's right actually.. My roof lining looks exactly like that, though more rough. And I haven't seen it before either, but didn't give it much thought till I saw youre link

LoL Nope, can't you tell it's under perfect control?

We were out havin' some fun this weekend, and a pro-photographer showed up, so I decided to give him something to shoot at, this is the result:

Hi. Dunno if this will be of any help, but here's a link to my buddy's build where he uses 404 chassis, axles and some of the g-box. http://www.obelixen.dk/projekt%20r%C3%A6ser%2008/ And my own current Mog-build, much more stock-ish: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=37917

Maybe because you limit the amount of flow into the intake when you close the throttle-blade on the carb? Usually you don't have this on a TD.

Looking very tasty Lara! where did you get those?

Haha.. yeah suppose you could say so

Well it's a common problem.. People tend to overfill the side indicators, and then the fluid runs inside the fenders and down into the footwell

Always remember that side indicators use a different fluid. This is specially designed to help corrosion of the fender

This particular engine has only done 155kkm. And a piston-ring has snapped along with a broken piston. He's getting aprox. 170 hp from it, and ofcourse that won't improve the lifespan.. But it has only been tuned to this degree for a couple of years.

I repair bikes for living, and often they use locating dowels to prevent the cap from sliding around, but ofcourse there is bound to be a huge difference in production cost on these two solutions.

Okay, thought somebody on here would know I have never heard about this fracture splitting of conrods before, but get the idea. But still I think its a crappy way to do it, what if one egde of at fracture touches another, just a bit, when tightening? It would go all pairshaped (hope its spelled correct) and result in slack.. Well as I wrote earlier it is just a friend of mine who has send the pictures. So I hope he knows which ones belong together.

Sorry white90 too slow If this truly is how it suppose to be, I am speechless..

Wondered that myself.. But don't think they're suppose to be there.. But what I can't get 'round my head, is that if this is a failure from running, and not a fabrication failure. How on earth could it happen?

I will agree with FF on this. Take a look on the picture below. This happened because the springs were super-soft and me running a 2,5TD and 900x16 tyres.

Hi chaps. My mate is running one of these lovely TD5 engines in his 110. It started overheating and had a "Ticking" noise from the engine. So he decided to take it apart to find out what was going on, and look what he discovered! Never have I seen such bad engineering in my whole life! (And I often repair china bikes) I really don't hope the engine was fabricated this way?? Could anybody shed some light on this? Thank you from a shocked dane

Thank you all! parts ordered