My rear diff has been noisey since sodbury when after big bang and grinding noise we got big yellow taxi home. the rear pans rusted through and leaked alloil out. So do i just replace or repair/rebuild the existing diff but i i mean pay an expert. Cannot see any dammage looking at the diff with cover off
was flying up A1 in me sprinter van the other evening was pulling over 90 on speedo and a new 90 hard top flew past like was standing still!! was a dealership test drive 1 so maybe they know a way around it
Sold my disco to my dad 94M 300tdi auto ES mint abolutly no rust 140K let him give me £1500 for it. i think th book lies there not worth alot as the market still has plenty of them about
my 110 is ex AA and has a maple technology drivertech imobiser system you can leave eengine running and without the tab soon as you try to drive off it cuts out. Like an idiot i've lost the only tab and now can go anywhere anyone hvae a clue of bypassing removing an imobliser sytem?
Except a late IIA with a metal gril Personal preferance. Anyway my dad was looking atthat series 3 is a very nice motor and the dash wouldnt be as bad once you had a radio cb and some switches installed just looks a little plain
There much better than using a grinder well worth having in a workshop. Your cuts will always be square and there no more noisy than a big grinder plus no risk of it catching and nearly taking your hand off.
Auto disco's dont have a viscous its same LT230 as the manual with the manual diff lock. Well mine does i love the auto its lazy in traffic and easy off road
I've just done mine no need to remove alternator or airbox. Viscous fanoff then cowl top rad and intercooler hoses. undo pully nuts with the belt on then take the belt off clamp the hoses and remove the pump and refit new pump and put back together