nicedayforit

Another simple way to dis-able it is to unplug the modulator block.

Certainly make your lights brighter but unfortunately they are illegal to use on the road. Any lighting on a vehicle has to have E marked bulbs in compatible E marked fittings. As the existing headlight units are not E marked for use with HID lamps they can't be used on the road. I use these on my 300 tdi, I find them very good and a lot cheaper. http://www.consumabulbs.com/content/Osram-Car-Bulbs.php

Locking inertia switch faulty

If you loosen the filter first then knock a hole in the bottom of it you can drain the oil into a shallow dish. Something like an old tupperware container. When the oil in the filter is drained, remove it . No mess.

Have a look under the carpet and sound-deadening sheet in each of the front footwells. If it's wet, thats your problem. Rainwater leakage somewhere or the condensate drains on the ac (if fitted) are blocked.

On a 300tdi the coolant flows out of the head at the top rear to the inlet of the heater, so I suppose it's a heater inlet pipe. Don't know which way round it is on a 2ootdi.

We shall simply have to disagree on what constituted an immobiliser in 1994. In it's day I don't doubt it was called an imobiliser.

Non of the above apart from the red lamp indication. When I lock my car by single button fob or with the key the alarm sets and the starter is inhibited. It works because I can test it by creating a "door mislock" condition. It's obviously not as sophsticated as you describe the later models as having but it is an immobiliser all the same.

Thats interesting because my 94 300tdi does, and I know for a fact it's original fitment. It's also described in my handbook.

It does. The immobiliser is activated when you lock the car.

Interesting, buts thats not the abs system that's on my 300tdi Disco, no tc either.

Under normal brake operation ie when the abs ecu detects no abs assisstance is required the brakes operate as any other car without abs. The brake servo operates to provide braking assistance and has nothing to do with an abs system. The brake servo operates in exactly the same way whether abs is operating or not. Under normal braking conditions ie with servo assistance the abs modulator valves are all in the open position ie the master cylinder is connected hydraulically to each wheel caliper assembly independently. If the abs ecu detects wheel slip it shuts the modulator valve serving that caliper and by operation of the modulator pump reduces hydraulic pressure in that caliper. If the abs ecu then detects the wheel is providing grip again it re-opens the closed valves and re-applies hydraulic pressure using the modulator pump as the pressure source. Each wheel operates independently at all times through out this sequence. The pulsing of pressure to each wheel caliper can occur up to about 20 times per second to each wheel individually. Throughout this sequence other wheels can simply be braking as they do at any other time or any-one or all can be operating in an abs induced manner depending on circumstances. The abs modulator pump is there to provide pressure assistance at times of abs operation it does not in any way substitute for the brake servo which continues to operate as normal abs or not. On switching on the ignition of an abs equipped car the abs ecu runs a diagnostic check of the system and if for any reason a fault is detected the ecu disables the abs system and indicates this by way of the famous abs warning light. In this condition the cars brakes will operate as a non abs equipped car, it simply won't have an operating abs system. Pulling the main fuse for the abs system replicates the disabled situation. Obviously if you present a car for an mot with the abs system not functioning your car will fail. If you wish to remove the abs system from the car there's nothing to stop you doing it. This particularly applies to an older car where because of the cost of abs components should they require replacing it's not such a bad idea. Removing the system really only requires pulling the main fuse, removing the modulator block and doing a bit of plumbing to the brake pipes around the prv to connect everything back up. Also removing/ disconnecting the wheel sensors and possibly the wheel sensor rings on the back wheels. I'm advised by my mot man that this would be acceptable - I'll let you make your own enquires. Hope this helps a bit, it's the basics of abs although some systems have other operating modes added.

Don't know anything about range rovers I'm afraid. I have a disco with abs and when I had a faulty sensor causing problems I pulled the fuse until I got it sorted, the brakes just worked as normal but without the abs assistance which I never needed anyway.

No, it justs means the abs won't work. It'll just be like driving the same model of car but one without the abs option fitted. No different to driving a car with faulty abs, the brakes still work.

You could of course just pull the fuse for your green laning trips and put it back for on-road use.

You have checked the bulbs?

This any use to you, not quite a full workshop manual but a lot of info even if american biased http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic27.html

What he says ^^^^^^^ totally different.

There is another possibility. The heater matrix may well be hot but the face/byepass dampers on the heater may be stuck in the position that bye-passes air from the heater so it doesn't heat. Possibly worth checking that each of the control knobs are correctly operating the dampers. The control cables are known to come off the knobs. It's not a V8 by any chance ?

I don't think you are alone in this. Had to change my hose some years ago for the same reason.

Just buy a new one and plug it in.

The best way I 've found if the heater air locks after filling is through the heater flow connection. This is the pipe that rises off the head at the rear, not the metal pipe that runs along the head. Undo the hose from the connection on the top of the head and lift it vertically in the air. Place a thumb, someone elses, over the head connection and fill the hose with a coolant mix. Quickly refit the hose whilst coolant is pouring out. Usually works first time.

You can make yourself a simple pipe bender for that size of pipe by screwing a 25mm length of wood dowl about 40mm dia onto a flat board. Just lay the pipe on the board and gently pull around the dowel.

I'm not been funny, but have you checked the bulbs? It not uncommon for one to go then the other. Second thing, check the 3 pin plugs on the back of the headlights, are they in good condition, they have a habit of melting causing bad contacts. Lets know how you get on.

If you coat all your brake pipes with a layer of general purpose grease, touched up each year as required, your pipes will never corrode and thus will not need replacing. Same with steel fuel pipes. It's a lot easier than replacing the pipes. Mine are coming up to 16 years old and look like new under the grease. Well worth the effort.