unclebill Posted December 4, 2006 Share Posted December 4, 2006 Having read the thread on pegged diffs, I was impressed and as the rear diff has to come out this Christmas thought OK thats on the to do list, so was chatting to a mate as you do and he come back with this from a well respected off roader and competitor. He doesn't peg his diffs, just machines a groove in the half shaft near the hub end to give a natural shear point, therefore before any damage is done in the diff the half shaft will shear and at a relatively easy point to change, now thats also struck me as a damned good idea, obviousely how much to machine out is important, but a much easier route to go than moding diffs etc. Any thoughts. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
istruggle2gate11 Posted December 4, 2006 Share Posted December 4, 2006 (edited) Bill, Its a proven mod with varying results, very popular with Comp Safari chaps, and usually works well for them, I believe Kam offer a shear pin for the front axle which works on the same principle. Get the groove as far to the edge as poss to allow tools to grip on the stuck shaft (sometimes they become so twisted they just dont come out) else get an X-eng magnet. One argument could be that with pegged, 4 pin or lockered diffs, they should be able to take a little more stress than the sheer point would allow. Edited December 4, 2006 by 898kor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted December 4, 2006 Share Posted December 4, 2006 proven to break diffs too IIRC Paul Wightman did this then duly broke the ARB instead of the shaft I may have the wrong person but not the failure problem: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=1139 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted December 4, 2006 Share Posted December 4, 2006 Easier to fix but depends if you are after ultimate strength or not? Introducing a new (weaker) weakest point is not progress in that respect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwncidur Posted December 4, 2006 Share Posted December 4, 2006 I to know a chap who has done this on the front axle of his trialer. he has an early rangie axle with ashcroft 1/2 shafts and an ARB, the early rangie has the short outer stub shaft so he has a small step machined in to that shaft a smidge under the depth of the spline. simple to carry a couple of those stub shafts round as spares. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted December 4, 2006 Share Posted December 4, 2006 Don't GKN make a slipping clutch that replaces the driving member on the hub? The idea is that it slips before anything breaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted December 4, 2006 Share Posted December 4, 2006 Don't GKN make a slipping clutch that replaces the driving member on the hub? The idea is that it slips before anything breaks. Yes, rare as hens teeth (I've been told 35 sets but I don't know how accurate that is and AFAIK there are 3 sets owned by regular forum members at the moment) and before Ashcroft CVs were available I was prepared to spend a lot to get hold of a pair if they turned up. Both the Read brothers (Ali and Jules) used them on challenge trucks with mixed success (Jules had a front shaft break on a hill climb, truck slippped backwards, backflipped and was written off). Another friend had then on an Ibex that he owned for a while and also broke shafts when trying hard. Basically, I think they help but aren't a total solution. There are 2 schools of though on weakspots: Easy to replace weak link or strong enough not to break. Both have plus and minus points although I've always gone with the later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astro_Al Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 Hi Bill, here's probably the only thread addressing grooving so far on this forum (I think?): http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=1139 Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 I could be mistaken but it looks awfully similar to the one mentioned in post #3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astro_Al Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 Just checking you are awake... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 Having read the thread on pegged diffs, I was impressed and as the rear diff has to come out this Christmas thought OK thats on the to do list, so was chatting to a mate as you do and he come back with this from a well respected off roader and competitor.He doesn't peg his diffs, just machines a groove in the half shaft near the hub end to give a natural shear point, therefore before any damage is done in the diff the half shaft will shear and at a relatively easy point to change, now thats also struck me as a damned good idea, obviousely how much to machine out is important, but a much easier route to go than moding diffs etc. Any thoughts. Bill No need to machine a groove, they will break just as easy without Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astro_Al Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 Quite right Daan - why take something carp and make it crapper? Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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