Double cardan for parabolics does anyone know a good alternative LD 88 series 3 propshaft or Company?

[Jackjack]

Hi

I have just bought a modified series 3 that has John Craddock parabolic springs on it.  The universal joint was failing so I changed both of them but I have a vibration at 45mph to 50mph

as they are both new propshafts and I have tightened up the output flange I though it must have been there from the lifted springs (i dont know the shackle type)  and checked for play

so I fitted a wedge to change the castor angle and the vibration is better but not gone. it is especially bad if towing or under load. It has had a 200tdi fitted so i expect also the angle of the gearbox etc to be out as well.

although the vibration isnt bad i cant keep driving it knowing the bearings and UJs are being mashed up and i dont want to start messing with engine mounts and getting myself deeper into trouble. so it seems the fastest solution is to fit a double cardan on the rear. but they are very expensive. (one company wouldnt quote as they do all theirs though gwyn lewis)

does anyone know someone who can do a good price on a high angle double cardan? or one that would fit of another vehicle? as the back of an 88 series 3 is 54cm closed im sure there are other vehicles that have these too?

 

thank you for your help

 

 

[western]

Try GwynLewis4x4 or Bailey Morris

[Jackjack]

Gwyn is very expencive. I hoped someone would know of cheap way of converting a disco front the costs 150 a pop. must be alot of profit in it compared to Gwyns 500. im sure his are nice but that is alot of money :)

[western]

Ultimately you get what you pay for, propshaft can cause lots of damage & more if they are not designed, assembled, balanced & fitted properly, I wouldn't use a home made prop on any vehicle, you might find a suitable DC prop on ebay 

[Jackjack]

I dont want home made as in weld myself. however The disco ones are balanced, assembled properly, and fitting is 8 bolts (you cant even get the bolts the wrong way round) all for £150 other than the right flange on one end and the length I dot see the £350 markup. I dont mind paying for something that is quality or value, but not just because everyone else is paying. Reading on here I see that one person used a company called dunning and fairbank so  i will give them and bailey morris a ring tomorrow

[Bigj66]

North West Propshafts made mine. They advised against fitting a DC shaft and instead suggested a wide angle yoke style.

The angle between the gearbox and the diff is important and should ideally be below 15 degrees but the closer to single digits the better.

I fitted spacers under my axle pads to achieve the right angles but I’m still to use it on the road so can’t say yet if it’s ok or not.

[Gazzar]

Is it the rear prop that's causing concern?

 

Do you have the original series box? And rover diff?

 

I'm asking because it's not usual for parabolics to cause this problem, but if you've a short prop (longer gearbox or diff) it might be the cause.

If so, then the DC won't help, much; it's better for misalignment.

Another gotcha is the phasing of the prop, having the yokes in line can cause trouble.

Some photos of the springs and shackles might help.

 

[Wytze]

A few picture's would help.   Normally just a set of parabolic springs would not cause this.  

 

[Snagger]

I have had prop vibration from two issues, both of which changed the diff orientation and took the diff pinion flanges out of parallel with the transmission drive flanges - one was fitting 1-Ton (longer) spring shackles with a standard chassis, the other is fitting coiler axles (front diff is inclined).  If you have either of those mods, then that is the cause.  In the case of the former, refit the standard shackles.  If the latter, then a DC front prop with the DC joint at the transmission end will help.

I you have a standard vehicle except for the springs, then you probably have a damaged or worn prop shaft and fitting a new standard replacement should cure it.  You’d be amazed at how much vibration is created by sticking or worn UJs, slip joints or incorrectly phased yolks (they should be exactly in line with each other on Series vehicles).

[Jackjack]

Hi just a bit of an update, thanks for all the advice. I have been and measured everything with an inclinometer and the front diff was out, all thought it seemed to come from the back i took the prop off to test and it went, hurrah. I have some wedges to fit and if that doesnt work then i will cheat and use freewheeling hubs