Blanco Posted August 8, 2021 Share Posted August 8, 2021 So the AC is getting drained Monday morning and the plan for the week is to haul the old lump out clean up the engine bay a bit and slot in the lower mileage replacement. Pics will appear here as I get stuck in. Just looking at Rave I see that LR haul out the engine and box together, which might be tricky by myself, is there any reason why the engine cannot be removed by itself? Anyone been there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon_CSK Posted August 8, 2021 Share Posted August 8, 2021 1 hour ago, Blanco said: is there any reason why the engine cannot be removed by itself? Anyone been there? Blanco On my 4.6 I have the engine and gearbox out individually.I couldn't see how it was practical in a home workshop environment, or in my case in the paddock, how the two could be moved together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted August 8, 2021 Author Share Posted August 8, 2021 Thanks Simon, I guess the V8 and the diesel are a bit different but Plan A is to go that way unless someone flags up an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted August 10, 2021 Share Posted August 10, 2021 We've done a couple of P38 diesels, I usually try to take out the engine separately. There is no reason not to split them, but some of the bolts on the bellhousing are hard to get to. We've had one box that just couldn't separate from the engine, despite a few good tugs with the forklift (used to lift out the engine). So in the end we did resort to taking both out together, which does complicate matters. Especially if you plan to leave/refit the gearbox. It is easier to refit a manual gearbox outside of the car, less problems getting everything aligned. Your 2001 DSE will be auto, so shouldn't give much trouble getting out or back in. Good luck! Filip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon_CSK Posted August 10, 2021 Share Posted August 10, 2021 11 hours ago, Escape said: but some of the bolts on the bellhousing are hard to get to. Filip Exactly the same with the V8's to get more room I usually lift the block with the gearbox attached off the engine mounts, remove the engine mounts and let the engine and box rest down on the chassis. Removing the engine mounts greatly improves the access to the bellhousing bolts at the top of the engine.. Shouldn't be any different on the deisels. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted August 10, 2021 Author Share Posted August 10, 2021 OK, so I got started........... It took me a little while to remember what where which order, but the front does come out of the P38 quite handily 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted August 10, 2021 Author Share Posted August 10, 2021 That was the easy part really... took me ages last evening trying and failing to get the heater hoses off... I managed this morning having slept on it I made a couple of mini shepherds crook type tools out of high tensile fence wire and managed to separate the rubber from the steel pipe............ Two other items of interest in this shot, .... if you remove the engine on it's own then you don't have the benefit of the LR designated lift point which is attached to the gear box, so you have to get creative to lift the back of the engine, I elected to go right underneath and loop round the LH engine mount bracket, there really isn't much to get onto on the back of the RH side. Also while I was standing on the front crossmember rigging up I noticed that the low pressure reservoir pipe over to the ABS pump was rusting through and needed replacing, I don't know why it should fail, but clearly it has., Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted August 10, 2021 Author Share Posted August 10, 2021 Some of the transmission bolts were tricky, .... there is a range of different bolts used. 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 8mm Allen, 10mm Allen. My toolset was weak on 15mm until a legacy just a few weeks ago and I was very pleased to have some extra spanners to hand. The two most tricky to get at were this one with limited clearance width wise and length wise, with the added difficulty of having the shoulder of cast block just adjacent and the top starter motor bolt which defied most regular tools except 12 point ring spanners. (Edit, that obviously is the top starter bolt, must've been the one next to it!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted August 10, 2021 Author Share Posted August 10, 2021 Eventually got a grip on things and prepared to hoist it all out,..... And all went pretty well, the only real cock up becoming apparent right at the end when the engine had to be slid forward a surprisingly long way to disengage the transmission,.... in my defence it is the first time I ever separated an auto transmission and of course I was being guided by Rave which naturally doesn't cover disconnecting the flex-plate! Still I got there, and the better half turned up just in time,.. Note puddle of ATF groiwng below,... oops! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted August 11, 2021 Share Posted August 11, 2021 Just be sure you get the torque converter seated all the way before refitting, or your gearbox will be toast! And it'll be a right faff too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon_CSK Posted August 11, 2021 Share Posted August 11, 2021 9 hours ago, elbekko said: Just be sure you get the torque converter seated all the way before refitting, or your gearbox will be toast! And it'll be a right faff too... And don't do as I did, try forcing them together. You will wreak both the gearbox and the torque converter. Putting the torque converter is relatively easy, keeping it in place not so easy. I drilled a couple of small holes in the bellhousing and tie it in place with some wire. Once the engine is bolted on cut the wire pull it out and fill the holes with silicone or a self tapping screw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted August 11, 2021 Author Share Posted August 11, 2021 Thanks for the tips on the transmission. Spent the day sourcing parts (major pfaff post Brexit, minimum carriage from Paddocks is now 45 quid!) and cleaning, and bolting the best of the ancilliaries on the replacement engine. Just leaves the engine bay to clean up, 'pop' the TC back in and swing the new one in,..... how hard can it be? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted August 19, 2021 Author Share Posted August 19, 2021 Well harder than it should be! The TC only resisted for a minute of two and I held it in with a small hardwood wedge, that part went very well. Swinging the engine in went very well. The apparently 'dry' engine, wee'd all over the floor as soon as I turned it over so out came the rads again and I swopped in all my old water pump, t'stat and heater pipe at the front, just got it back together again but no start,.... I am quite tired of it now, and just a bit grumpy. Fuel is through to all the injectors, compression test is good all cylinders 380/390 psi. Stuck for what to do next really. No messages or beeps. Any thoughts greatly appreciated as always. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted August 20, 2021 Author Share Posted August 20, 2021 Decided to go with 'known' good parts from my old engine, changed the crank sensor last night (hell of a job getting the old one out, it left it's outer plastic cover inside the hole) no improvement. Have removed the old injectors and the engine loom this morning and will swap them in, if that doesn't work then I have run out of time really before we go to Scotland next week so it will be the Polo instead of the RR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted August 20, 2021 Share Posted August 20, 2021 Might be worth a search on here or elsewhere but is the fuel injection pump coded to the engine ECU and BECM? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted August 20, 2021 Share Posted August 20, 2021 I would check the timing of the injection pump. If you are getting diesel to the injectors, the injection pump is working but timing could be out. I feel your pain, I went through similar with a DSE last year... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted August 20, 2021 Author Share Posted August 20, 2021 Timing has been on my mind, .... I wanted to check the pump timing before it went back in, ( my old engine was a sluggish starter) but the adapter kit to use the DTI on the back of the pump still hasn't arrived from the UK (well I think it has but it is stuck in the BS mess left by Brexit). But as far as the FIP goes it was running before and should run now? I discovered that Nanocom gives me a timing (modulation?) reading of some sort which was about 94.5, which sounded good to me. I keep thinking I might have installed the flywheel incorrectly but looking at it again, it only has one orientation. I have the loom swapped over this morning and I am just about to refit my old injectors, which although higher mileage have had a couple of fuel system cleaner treatments through them and were working pretty well. I am double checking the injector pipes, but I am sure I have that correct, and I marked them all anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted August 20, 2021 Author Share Posted August 20, 2021 .... and the solution was.........., wait for it ............ Easy Start! .... must've been an air lock in the FIP or something, althoiugh fuel seemed to get to the injectors well enough, can't believe it now that it was that simple, probably wasted all this week on head scratching. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted August 21, 2021 Share Posted August 21, 2021 Glad you got it sorted. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted August 21, 2021 Author Share Posted August 21, 2021 Actually been running around in it since this morning, seems OK except that it took several starts with Easy Start before it would start by itself. I think the pump timing does want checking, it seems little better than my old one at starting but otherwise I have what seems to be a good replacement engine, no smoke. I tend to the view now that the FIP had air and/or dirty (or 'alternative'?) fuel in it and until it was all cleared through with clean fuel it didn't want to play. Just need to get re-gassed now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted August 21, 2021 Share Posted August 21, 2021 Do you have the worn pump/hot start kit on it? Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted September 5, 2021 Author Share Posted September 5, 2021 Sorry Pete, been away to Mull, just back and catching up. On 8/21/2021 at 7:09 PM, pete3000 said: Do you have the worn pump/hot start kit on it? Yes with swapping my loom onto the engine,.... it transferred across. Just up to about 1200 miles now on the engine including the trip to Mull. ran very well and started very well once I replaced the heater plug fuse. I eventually got the timing kit delivered to an Oban hotel to get round the Brexit headaches. Haven't tried it yet but it is starting so well it can't be far off. Three niggles so far, a small diesel weep from an injector pipe which I cured en-route, the crank rear oil seal appears to have failed (I put a new Corteco one in) I will have to try and source a genuine one. Before the seal failed, for the whole trip up it didn't use any oil at all that I could see. The worst 'niggle' seems to be bad/dirty diesel bought on the island,... we were on a dual carriageway I think when the engine light first came on and the engine died. Nanocom recorded a fuel supply fault I forget the exact wording, it happened three or four more times on the trip South. I am going to put some Redex fuel cleaner in it with a tank of fresh fuel and change the filter. Can't think what else it could be. It was fine on the way North. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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