Gazzar Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 I like the idea of rebuilding brake master and slave cylinders. It seems less wasteful, and all that. But, it's a braking component, thus has to be good. What's a good way of testing a rebuilt wheel cylinder? Blank the unions, clamp the piston, and pressurise with the air compressor? What pressure would be a good test pressure for a drum braked system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 I also like rebuilding and am currently in the process of cleaning up and shot blasting some 110 front callipers to rebuild. A leaking cylinder is pretty easy to spot during the bleed up process, I would bleed the brakes and clamp the piston. You should have a hard pedal that does not creep, and loss of fluid will be easily seen at the cylinder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted December 23, 2021 Author Share Posted December 23, 2021 I use a vacuum bleeder, so it can be hard to spot a leak, so it would be nice to be 100% certain, plus having the confidence of a test process is something that I'd like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 Instinct says you're going to surely generate more pressure with a press of the pedal than you'd stick on it with an airline. I'd build it up and install. You'll soon feel if there's a leak I'd have thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 If in doubt I start from the master cylinder, block the exits with a bleed nipple. Fill with fluid, bleed and test for movement on the pedal. Then move out to the next set of bleed point bleeding and testing. This way I can prove both systems if a twin setup. If I get to a caliper and it is spongy I use a combination of bleed nipple and female joints to prove the system but eliminating the caliper. It's just like testing electrics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted December 23, 2021 Author Share Posted December 23, 2021 That's the current plan for the particular problem I've got at the moment. It's for the rebuilt spares that I was thinking about. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted December 24, 2021 Share Posted December 24, 2021 If you use an EziBleed with a modified output from the bottle to a fitting for the cylinder port instead of a cap for the master reservoir, then you can check the cylinders at tyre pressure (you could connect the unit to a compressor, but a tyre will generate plenty of pressure to find leaks - a bad seal will leak more at low pressure than high, as it’ll be forced against the cylinder walls better under very high pressure). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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