Rear wiring loom from trailer socket cable tips and advice required

[Mossberg]

On removing my wiring loom to allow replacement of my rear crossmember I have realised it has seen better days and replacing it with trailer wiring cable would be viable. I cut the loom at the front as I couldn't pull the loom through. 

My current loom has 10 wires wich are 7 for the lights, 1 permanent live plus 2 for the fuel tank (pump and sender).

I don't have a rear tank so those wires are redundant- do you think it is worth adding these anyway? I can't really see me adding a rear tank.

I have ordered the 13 core trailer wire so I do have spare wires, but my thoughts are to stick to the trailer wiring colours where possible as this will simplify identification in the future.  This will mean I have provision for the addition of a switched live, a dedicated earth for the lights plus a dedicated earth for each of the live circuits. It will slso then have one spare.

So what are your thoughts on connections at the rear. Is there a suitable terminal block available, do I use spade or bullet connectors or is there something else?

Where the loom passes from right to left rear j will solder those connections.  I will use the same type of cable here but not connect the right hand only wires.

My intention is to route the loom along the top of the chassis in a spilt convoluted tube with P clips.

Your thoughts and experience would be welcome. 

Many thanks. 

Mick

[western]

IIRC solder joints are not used in production as it adds time & cost, but join your wires as you see fit, I always use crimped terminals as its easier then soldering in a awkward position on the vehicle. 

[Northwards]

I thought I’d read somewhere that solder joints weren’t common on cars because where the soldered wires meet the rest of the cable is a single point of movement/flex. Vibration over time can cause the cable to break. That said, it was probably something I read on the internet, and might be of no value at all.

I always use crimp connectors, and getting a good crimping tool makes all the difference. It’s also easy to get any variety of different multiplug connectors, so that you can have options to remove/change/service in future. 

If it was me, I’d get a replacement loom section from the likes of autosparks, or get lengths of cable in the right colours and make up your own replacement. I know from experience that you do a job one year, using what’s to hand, thinking you’ll remember the colours - 20 years down the line - not a clue! If you stick to the standard colours, you can still reference via the wiring diagrams.

Not sure it’s even worth tuppence, but that’s how I’d approach it.

[Mossberg]

2 minutes ago, Northwards said:

I thought I’d read somewhere that solder joints weren’t common on cars because where the soldered wires meet the rest of the cable is a single point of movement/flex. Vibration over time can cause the cable to break. That said, it was probably something I read on the internet, and might be of no value at all.

I always use crimp connectors, and getting a good crimping tool makes all the difference. It’s also easy to get any variety of different multiplug connectors, so that you can have options to remove/change/service in future. 

If it was me, I’d get a replacement loom section from the likes of autosparks, or get lengths of cable in the right colours. I know from experience that you do a job one year, using what’s to hand, thinking you’ll remember the colours - 20 years down the line - not a clue! If you stick to the standard colours, you can still reference via the wiring diagrams.

Not sure it’s even worth tuppence, but that’s how I’d approach it.

I agree about the wiring colours which is why I liked the trailer cable option.  I know it's not Land Rover standard colours but it is standard colours so easy to reference through the Internet etc. Infact, when I was trying to identify the wiring, I used the wiring to the trailer as a great reference as it is really easy to find trailer wiring colours. 

And I can say Northwards, even if I don't follow your suggestions, your input is valued and appreciated.  And also, whilst you are commenting on my questions, I have gained much insight through reading advice given to others.

[muddy]

Whilst the risk of solder fracturing is there I would say in practise the risk is minimal and the benefits far outweigh the negatives, what I would say is buy some 3:1 ratio adesive lined heat shrink this will make a big difference to the longevity of the joint. 

Not sure which way you were pulling but the loom goes in at the back and out the front when installing opposite for removal. Its usually best to cut the back as there's enough spare to pull out and make up a new rear loom or at least up to the RH tail lights.

[Mo Murphy]

You can buy multiway connectors from any of the big electrical retailers.

Buy a male and female and cut the connector off the main harness where the rear connects, fit the new replacement where the old was and then fit the other new connector to the trailer cable. 

Then you are plug and play with a new waterproof connection.

HTH

Mo

[Mossberg]

Does anyone have any links to the heat shrink crimp connectors and to heat shrink.

Preferably somewhere I can get it quick, and if possible ebay or a place that accepts PayPal.

Alternatively, do electrical places stock them for reasonable money? 

I don't want to pay stupid costs but also don't want inferior kit either.

Links would be great if possible as I would prefer to look at sites/sellers you folks have had success with. 

Many thanks.

Mick.

[Junglie]

Try these folks:

Vehicle Wiring Products Ltd Suppliers of Auto Electrical Parts

Not used them myself but friends have and have been happy.

SB

[Mossberg]

Many thanks,  I will have a look. 

[cackshifter]

I have used VWP no problem and Pole_Volt