D3 advice

[Badger110]

I’m looking to replace my work van ( Citroen berlingo ) with a D3  
 

The space in the back of the disco is enough to carry my gear that I use nowadays…the big heavier stuff is used by everyone else in the bigger vans.

 

what’s a good one to look for? Engine/year combination etc?
 

It will be a work vehicle so I’m not too worried about shiny stuff and the budget won’t be more than 6k

 

Ta

[Chicken Drumstick]

They did offer a commercial D3. But obviously it maybe less practical than a normal one due to less seats. It still had 5 doors though. 
 

As I recall they changed the model variant names after a few years. Well worth looking it up. As something that sounds like a higher spec model might be a base model naming later on. 
 

Most are diesel. Which you can get as a manual or auto (the manual goes better IMO and more frugal). Most manuals are low spec. Base spec is coils no Terrain Response only TCS and 5 seats. 
 

Arguably I’d say the higher the spec the better. It isn’t normally the nicer trim items that cause any sorts of issues. But can make a vehicle nicer to live with and a bit more luxury. 
 

Snappy cranks are the biggest real issue I suspect. But on the flip side there are loads of D3’s for sale with well over 200,000 miles on. So it is very unclear how much of an issue and risk this really is. 
 

Like anything complex I think they all need some tlc and the air suspension if equipped will need maintenance to keep it working. I believe they also eat through a number of suspension items like bushes and rod ends. 

[TSD]

The earliest cars are often showing serious rust issues by now, in the sills and rear wheelarch area. Try to find something that has never had side steps or jackable sills fitted, and check the bottom of the sill underneath the plastic covers.

Around MY2008 there was a change to the oil pump design (in the TDV6) which resulted in a lot of broken castings and failed engines. The preventative is to fit the redesigned pump setup when the belts are changed. I imagine most have been sorted by now, but worth being aware of.

Edited October 26, 2022 by TSD

[Badger110]

Thanks chaps.

I’d prefer an auto if I’m honest for ease of driving ( joints not great these days and the Landy takes some doing )

 

[Willie MacLeod]

Worth checking for chassis rust around at the rear around the rear driveshaft cut outs as well.

Wishbones/bushes galore to check.  Rusty fuel tank cradles.  Failed propshaft centre bearings.  Sticky turbo actuators.  

I've got an early one, 2004 with a lot of miles on it.  Still a nice vehicle to drive.  There are a lot out there with huge mileages on them!  I'd buy on condition and expect to get a good clean one with no faults for £6k, values have dropped a bit recently.  Double check the tax bracket of the specific model you choose so you don't get a shock.

 

 

[landroversforever]

On 10/27/2022 at 4:57 PM, Willie MacLeod said:

Double check the tax bracket of the specific model you choose so you don't get a shock.

Another bonus for the commercial registered ones..... or at least a Pre 06 I think it is falls into the lower category.

[muddy]

Do not buy a manual, the clutches are not up to it and the modern autos are so good I struggle to see why you would want a manual anyway. 

[Badger110]

HSE seem to be the nice ones, 200k and above is normal on mileage.

still looking 

[Badger110]

I may have found one that ticks the right boxes and at a good price.

 

I may be loitering around these hallowed halls bit more, we shall see.