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The spot welder trick for aluminium (steel sandwich)


twodoorgaz

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I’ve just ordered myself a new spot welder (nice thing, a Tecna 7902P - does 2x2.5mm steel and has a pulse setting). It was ordered primarily for non-LR projects and steel bodywork repair, but I keep coming back to the trick on YouTube of using it for aluminium by sandwiching the panels between two thin pieces of steel.

 

I do have lots of Series bodywork repairs to do (tubs, seatbases, etc) for a couple of rebuilds and have already got an AC/DC tig set but I’m only just learning how to use the kit and expect it to take me years before I’m vaguely OK with ally.


Using the spot welder would be infinitely easier and would be more in keeping with factory.

 

so the question is: while I know that using the steel sandwich truck, that I can now spot weld aluminium (and it’s alloys), has anyone used this trick themselves and if so - how does the strength of the weld compare to factory spots?

 

Im debating whether to rely on the tricked spot welds as direct replacements for factory, whether to put them down twice as frequently or even whether to do spots in the factory position and use some panel bond epoxy in the gaps to guarantee at least factory strength.

 

Edited by twodoorgaz
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Always meant to but never got round to it. Unfortunately where I live now, the electricity supply is not up to it. My spot welder needs a dedicated 32 amp supply from the fuse box.

I have wondered if, instead of the sandwich, steel contacts would work.

My spot welder works really well on steel, but to make full use of one, you will end up spending a fortune on different arms.

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Thank you - on the arm front I’m sorted. The chap I’ve bought it from reconditions and upgrades them and also makes arms - he told me how to do it and if you have a lathe, which I do, and make a simple rod bender then you can make them in any shape you need for the price of 12mm copper rod. That was the thing that tipped me over into buying one.

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6 hours ago, landroversforever said:

Anyone here actually tried it? I really can't see how it helps as I thought the issue with ali is how quickly it wicks the heat away from the weld area. A bit of steel each side doesn't change that bit?

As I understand it, it is actually to increase the resistance, to intensify the heat in the contact area, or as you say, the heat is conducted away, as the ali has little resistance. Spot welding is a resistance welding process, which is why I wondered if steel electrodes would be any good.

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16 hours ago, smallfry said:

Spot welding is a resistance welding process, which is why I wondered if steel electrodes would be any good.

It’s a resistance welding process in that that’s what causes the heat. If you’ve got the resistance in the arms I don’t think that will help, just mean less power getting to the actual joint. Given the price difference in steel vs copper I’m sure they’d all come with steel electrodes if it was a benefit.  

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