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Panhard rods


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Can someone confirm I'm not crazy. Hard task I know. Thanks. 

Was a RHD panhard rod straight and the LHD one has the diff bend. The LHD fits either but the RHD one being straight does not. It was straight, right....?

Secondary but less important question....

Then later they went to 35mm tube not sold 30mm and only made the 35mm tube one in the bent version. (Edit seems also in straight) this question answered. 👍

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On LHD vehicles the rod requires a crank to clear the diff, on RHD it does not.

Pre-2002 they fitted the same cranked solid rod to all cars regardless of drive side, though it was unnecessary on RHD ones.

From 2002 they moved to the welded hollow tube, and at that point RHD and LHD differed, with the former having a straight rod and the latter using a cranked one.

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So the plot grows thicker with every second passing. When the guys in Angola did my conversion from right hand drive to left hand drive they obviously needed to change the cast brackets underneath the LHD power steering box. The casting is the newer type from a TD5/Puma so has a 16mm hole in the casting. It also follows the panhard rod they swapped is also the newer type (of the tubular variety) which means it has the newer bushes at each end with a 16mm hole in the bush. Yet not surprisingly the guys in Angola decided to use the 14mm bolts, probably because the axle mounting hole is 14mm but the bush is 16mm. The 16mm bolts wouldn't have gone through so they used the 14mm bolts (on both ends 🙄).  So I have a panhard rod with a 16mm bushes, an axle with a 14mm holes in it and casting with 16mm holes in it and 14mm bolts in both ends.  So I need to buy new rated 16mm x 80 bolts (in Africa!) and some new bushes because the bushes don't look good.  Drill the axle hole up to 16mm. Now I do have a drill with me but as we all know a normal electric drill can't cope with a 16mm drill bit so I don't really know how I'm gonna do that unless I can find a reduced shank one that's meant for a domestic drill. All in Africa....

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4 hours ago, tweetyduck said:

Am I correct that the "forged" one is 30mm and the tubular one is 35mm ? 

I vaguely remember reading that on here. 

The tubular one is certainly 30mm.....the cast one I think is 25mm. 

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Not a great deal of fun, but can you not use a circular file to open up the axle bracket holes if you drill won’t cope?  The other option may be to get a 16mm drill bit’s chuck end turned down on a lathe to whatever diameter your drill will take.

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1 minute ago, Snagger said:

Not a great deal of fun, but can you not use a circular file to open up the axle bracket holes if you drill won’t cope?  The other option may be to get a 16mm drill bit’s chuck end turned down on a lathe to whatever diameter your drill will take.


I find step drills to be the most effective for opening up holes that have already been drilled, but that might be a bit tricky to find.

Other option is running the 14mm bolt, but have a different tube made for the centre of the bush? Or roll a bit of 1mm sheet as a temporary sleeve for the bolt? 

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Step drills are great.  I was very impressed when I got one and wished I had got it before.  Without having a close look at the bracket, I think that it would be impossible to access the rear hole with one, though, access from the front only and needing to drill the rear hole through the front hole.  Not sure about it, and worth a look to check.

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1 minute ago, landroversforever said:

It's probable the other issue of it not being long enough and no access to drill through from the axle side. 

With the end of the cone cut off, I would think a larger step drill with the wider part cut off as well would be long enough to get through from the front side, it may be hanging out the chuck a little, but would do it :D

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8 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

With the end of the cone cut off, I would think a larger step drill with the wider part cut off as well would be long enough to get through from the front side, it may be hanging out the chuck a little, but would do it :D

I have managed to do it in the past in a different application by posting the step drill back through the first hole so it's trapped and then putting the drill back on it to drill the second side of a clevis I couldn't get to. 

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Tips and more tips. After 4 engineering places I found one. 16mm with 12mm shank. 3 shops only had 13mm. I had a cone cutter so it might have worked as you say but I got it done. Just driven away from the workshop. Had to remove the steering bar and steering protection to get to it but not too bad. They even gave me a sheet of cardboard to lay on. I paid him £3 and he wanted nothing. Only used the drill bit as I have a battery drill. We've used the place before as they have a press in fact we've had other overlanders go there for all sort. So I now know all about panhard rods. 🤔

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