Post your long-term feedback on paints / rustproofing / coatings etc,

[bishbosh]

Like @simonr, I had extremely good results with garage floor paint direct onto metal for a roll cage and tree sliders. Was impressively tough and so easy to touch up due to the lack of primer etc.

IIRC it was an International Paints product.

[ThreePointFive]

2 hours ago, Ed Poore said:

Funny, Dad does too. Uses it extensively when he's repaired his Shoguns. Also funny that he's on his third or fourth in the 15 years I've owned my 110 

In fairness Mitsubishis make TDI head gasket failure rates look reasonable so he's done well there.

[elbekko]

13 hours ago, simonr said:

My favorite paint, for quality of finish, is CombiColour.  It goes straight on to metal but is not very mechanically tough

That's an understatement. I used it on my bumper build, and it scratches off like crazy. I think when I redo the paint I'll try some 2K primer + finish.

[sean f]

Not quite paint but thought people might be interested.

To keep machined parts rust free between stages in the workshop I bought a small drum of Castrol Rustillo rust preventative, its is advertised as a dewaterer / rust preventative, basically think in terms of a light version of waxoil, it leaves a thin waxy coat on the steel which cleans off easily with brake cleaner. to give it a not very scientific test I got two pieces of mild steel swarf, sprayed one with the rustillo and left them both out side the workshop for a month, the results are below. Considering the recommendation is that parts are dipped into the fluid and I used a spray (ex WD40 spray bottle), it is rated for indoor protection and the surface of the drill swarf is rough with lots of hard to reach pitting I don't think it did a bad job, the rust may well just be spots I didn't get good coverage on.

 

 

Another case of corrosion, this is the prop shaft off a yacht, 316 stainless, and as you can see a total right off due to corrosion, may well have snapped it actually used in anger, this was due to not being earthed back to the zinc's correctly. Main corrosion was just out side the sealing gland and where the cutlass bearing was running on the prop end (tapered at the top of picture) can clear be seen. The replacement was made with duplex, the prop also replaced as that was un healthy as well, the earth was fixed by the owner before they the boat was put back in the water.