iron_city Posted June 6 Share Posted June 6 Hello all, I searched through the forum but couldn't quite find an answer to this particular problem. We have a 1988 LHD LR Defender. It's been driving great but recently have had a small issue come up with the clutch. The clutch engages a little too quickly in the travel from being pressed down all the way. So for example you put the clutch in, put the truck into 1st gear, once you start releasing the clutch say even a few millimeters, it will engage the drive. Hence there is very little freeplay. There is a fair amount of freeplay from fully out to when it starts to engage the clutch is more than halfway down. Is there a diagram or video that might show me how to adjust the clutch? Hopefully I'm explaining this ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 6 Share Posted June 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 6 Share Posted June 6 Also entirely possible you have air in the hydraulics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat_pending Posted June 7 Share Posted June 7 In normal service the clutch does not need adjusting, the push rod adjustment is really only there for initial set up. If it's been working fine and the bite point has suddenly changed it would indicate something is failing, either in the hydraulics, the clutch itself or, if it's a 4 cylinder engine, the clutch arm pivot is punching it's way through the clutch arm (V8s have a stronger arm so not applicable). Diagnose the problem rather than fiddle with things. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iron_city Posted June 8 Author Share Posted June 8 thank you all. And to your points, I do now see a little bit of fluid on the clutch arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted June 8 Share Posted June 8 There are only two things, which are important. 1. Freeplay for the pedal. If there is none, the clutch can stay pressed a bit. 2. It has to open completely when pressed. Otherwise gearshifting will be hard. The hight of the pedal can be adjusted as you like it as long as 1 and 2 are guaranteed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fmmv Posted June 8 Share Posted June 8 Well if the slave is leaking, it usually means the master will expire just after you have renewed the slave and filled and bled the system, so it is advisable to replace both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iron_city Posted June 8 Author Share Posted June 8 (edited) I took the cap off of the master cylinder and saw that it was nearly empty. I bled the system with new brake fluid, and it is working much better now. Doesn't look like there is a leak at the slave, but possible a small leak at the master. I think for now I'll just ensure that it remains topped off until it gets worse... Edited June 8 by iron_city Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 9 Share Posted June 9 If it has got to that that (empty) then it will fail withing the next two weeks, just the ways these things go.... Unless you to be stranded by the side of the road you'd be better just to get it sorted, it is not a big job and parts pretty cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted June 9 Share Posted June 9 (taking a deep breath) you really thought about adjustig the clutch and the pedal before looking into the reservoir? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iron_city Posted June 10 Author Share Posted June 10 I'm not perfect, wish I was... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted June 10 Share Posted June 10 4 hours ago, iron_city said: I'm not perfect, wish I was... Ask away with whatever Q's you have, all questions are worth asking. There is a wealth of experience here and most of it is shared with tact and mutual respect. TRW is a common OEM replacement brand this side of the pond for clutch hydraulics . Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted June 10 Share Posted June 10 Sorry, when I offended you. In my head some procedures are so fixed, I can't think of other. Every question is worth asking, thats right. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 10 Share Posted June 10 2 hours ago, steve b said: Ask away with whatever Q's you have, all questions are worth asking. There is a wealth of experience here and most of it is shared with tact and mutual respect. TRW is a common OEM replacement brand this side of the pond for clutch hydraulics . Steve TRW is a sub-brand of Lucas, like GKN. That qualifies them as OEM, and Gen Parts “switched” from Lucas to GKN to TRW as Lucas moved various divisions around in their organisation. But, sadly, their quality is not brilliant. They are better than most aftermarket sources, but not immune to being defective from new; I had a faulty TRW master cylinder that caused a lot of head scratching until I replaced it with a second unit, which has been absolutely fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iron_city Posted June 10 Author Share Posted June 10 no problem @Sigi_H, and thank you all, I'm truly grateful for all of the incredibly helpful responses here. I know I would not be able to manage keeping this Defender running without this resource. 🙏 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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