crewcab 110 Posted February 27, 2019 Share Posted February 27, 2019 3 hours ago, landroversforever said: They do, but the P38 diff is about 2" shorter than a normal Disco/Defender one, hence the propshaft looking rather too long (compressed) above. god knows whats going on as prop that is on is off a td5 110 ive got axel sorted rust taken off twisted wire brush now then a lick of zinc primer and some black gloss enamel then i will be sticking it in at the weekend fingers crossed then ive got to do transfer box the joys of owning a defender lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted February 27, 2019 Share Posted February 27, 2019 20 minutes ago, crewcab 110 said: god knows whats going on as prop that is on is off a td5 110 ive got axel sorted rust taken off twisted wire brush now then a lick of zinc primer and some black gloss enamel then i will be sticking it in at the weekend fingers crossed then ive got to do transfer box the joys of owning a defender lol I know what's going on . The Post '02 110 and 130 rear axle may look like a 'normal' Rover diff but is actually the P38 'short-nose' type which is around 2" shorter from memory. So as it is with the 'normal' diff in it, the prop is too long. With the proper later 110/130 axle the propshaft will be the perfect length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crewcab 110 Posted February 27, 2019 Share Posted February 27, 2019 2 hours ago, landroversforever said: I know what's going on . The Post '02 110 and 130 rear axle may look like a 'normal' Rover diff but is actually the P38 'short-nose' type which is around 2" shorter from memory. So as it is with the 'normal' diff in it, the prop is too long. With the proper later 110/130 axle the propshaft will be the perfect length. does that number help this is the one i am putting on now all been knotted wheeled and needle scaled zink primer and gloss enamel looks better than the outside of the landy its turned out like a sheet of glass lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted February 27, 2019 Share Posted February 27, 2019 Take a picture of the diff. It will all be obvious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crewcab 110 Posted February 27, 2019 Share Posted February 27, 2019 1 minute ago, Red90 said: Take a picture of the diff. It will all be obvious. this is a pic of it lol ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted February 27, 2019 Share Posted February 27, 2019 The entire diff. Or get a measurement from the axle centre line to the pinion flange face.... 1)Longest measurement is the Salisbury 2)Middle measurement is the one you have (normal coiler axle) 3)Shortest is the one you want. The later type 110/130 rear axle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crewcab 110 Posted February 27, 2019 Share Posted February 27, 2019 1 minute ago, landroversforever said: The entire diff. Or get a measurement from the axle centre line to the pinion flange face.... 1)Longest measurement is the Salisbury 2)Middle measurement is the one you have (normal coiler axle) 3)Shortest is the one you want. The later type 110/130 rear axle yup thats the one in the picture its td5 one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted February 27, 2019 Share Posted February 27, 2019 (edited) 7 minutes ago, crewcab 110 said: this is a pic of it lol ? No. The diff center with the pinion flange. a long nose and short nose look quite different. You are just showing the a arm mounting point and a bit of the axle housing. Edited February 27, 2019 by Red90 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crewcab 110 Posted February 27, 2019 Share Posted February 27, 2019 1 minute ago, Red90 said: No. The diff center with the pinion flange. a long nose and short nose look quite different. You are just showing the a arm mounting point and a bit of the axle housing. i was showing the number on it incase that helped lol yer ive measured and this one is shorter than the disco one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crewcab 110 Posted February 27, 2019 Share Posted February 27, 2019 49 minutes ago, crewcab 110 said: i was showing the number on it incase that helped lol yer ive measured and this one is shorter than the disco one another quick question anyone know the part number for the td5 rear stub axel seals so i dont make an arse of ordering them lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crewcab 110 Posted March 3, 2019 Share Posted March 3, 2019 (edited) well i got the new axel in both stubs were siezed so couldnt get prop on so stuck the wheels on put it in low ratio and rocked it back and forwards to free them lol and guess what happend lost front wheel drive rear prop still turning front prop is just sort of flicking a bit and doing nothing so safe to say ive killed something lol f ing landys dont u love em transfer box must be made of toffee. there is a big diffrence between this axel and the disco one just didnt take any notice and prop is now spot on when in position Edited March 3, 2019 by crewcab 110 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 3, 2019 Share Posted March 3, 2019 If the rear prop was free to spin the front wouldn't get any drive unless you had it in diff lock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crewcab 110 Posted March 3, 2019 Share Posted March 3, 2019 35 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said: If the rear prop was free to spin the front wouldn't get any drive unless you had it in diff lock? yup had it in diff lock was rocking back and forwards till it freed up then wouldnt work again loil just aswel am taking it out and putting a defender one in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crewcab 110 Posted March 3, 2019 Share Posted March 3, 2019 just been outside found the issue the diff lock is sticking just gave it a bash from the top and heard a little click and it must of engaged as ive got drive back to my front wheels also i wasnt able to get the selectro stick forward enough as box is out of disco and was hitting heater box from the tdci dashboard so that needs bending out the way ,thanks again for advice more minds better than one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted March 3, 2019 Share Posted March 3, 2019 For the record, the transfer box on land rovers (the LT230) is very strong actually, known to put up with yank V8s quite happily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crewcab 110 Posted March 3, 2019 Share Posted March 3, 2019 (edited) 4 hours ago, Bowie69 said: For the record, the transfer box on land rovers (the LT230) is very strong actually, known to put up with yank V8s quite happily. yup as ive now found out something was sticking in the box and the diff lock wasnt kicking in so not broken its never been on a road in over 5 years so i doubt it will have any oil on it hence the sticky bit ,never had any bother with my td5 box. also any of you guys using enamel to paint ya bits put some 2k hardner in with it you wouldnt beleive how well it turns out and goes off a lot quicker Edited March 3, 2019 by crewcab 110 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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