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RRC sounds bad on full lock at low speed


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hi all, i have recently bought a 93 RRC and started to sort out all the small jobs that need doing to get it through the MOT and keep me happy. I had to replace the swivel house seals and decided to replace the cv joints whilst i had them out. When every thing was back together i noticed an unhealthy ticking/clunk coming from the front right hub when performing a low speed full lock turn to the left and right. i have checked the steering lock bolts on the swivel housing are correct, (according to haynes manual). i have checked the wheel bearings and they have a small amount of play. this evening i replaced the original cv joint to see if that stopped the noise to no avail ! :angry: i cannot remember hearing the noise before i changed the original cv joint (but my hearing isnt the best) and now i cant get rid of it. For information the new cv joint is an after market item costing approx £30 - mail order. when i checked it before fitting and after removal it seems stiff to move, which i thought was normal, is it meant to be stiff and the noise is a bedding in process? Unlikely i know but i have run out of sane ideas!! Any advice will be gladly received as i am at a bit of a loss. HELP :blink:

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Hi Deano,

Thanks for the advice regarding the stiffness of the cv joint. I don't suppose anyone knows if it is possible that the cause of the noises can be due to a dodgy front differential? Thanks in advance for any help.

Could be ...

I'd jack up the front end and have a play with the fronts at full lock, that may pinpoint where your noise is coming from. Check the ball joints are tight just in case one has been left loose but if it was that loose it'd be scary! Could even be something stupid like the tyre tread blocks just clipping the radius arms ...

If you replaced the original cv it can't be that ... unless the original was duff?

AndyG

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Is it ticking or a scuffing tyre? It could be (if you have one that is!) that the viscous coupling has seized.

To check, jack up one wheel and try and rotate it by hand. It should require a fair amount of effort but it will turn slowly. If it spins freely or wont turn at all then the viscous coupling is shot.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Is it ticking or a scuffing tyre? It could be (if you have one that is!) that the viscous coupling has seized.

To check, jack up one wheel and try and rotate it by hand. It should require a fair amount of effort but it will turn slowly. If it spins freely or wont turn at all then the viscous coupling is shot.

Hi,

Thanks for the advice, i now need a new viscous coupling! Atleast im getting a good working knowledge of my RRC :blink:

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You are sure you have a Borg Warner T- box then?

Hi- Lo leaver has no "gate" for diff lock to the left?

Just to confuse things, my '93 has a BW but the transfer box lever has markings for a manual diff lock (and the correct one for the BW TB won't fit the selector - different thread diameter). It only moves forward and aft though, not left and right, which still makes it pretty obvious.

So far as I can tell it left the factory like this...

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Just to confuse things, my '93 has a BW but the transfer box lever has markings for a manual diff lock (and the correct one for the BW TB won't fit the selector - different thread diameter). It only moves forward and aft though, not left and right, which still makes it pretty obvious.

So far as I can tell it left the factory like this...

That's SO land rover isn't it?

You can just imgaine the scene at asssembly:

"'ere guvnor this transfer box knob won't fit"

"don't worry son the box probably wasn't made right- just bodge something"

"well i've got one of these old style knobs that seems to work"

"yeah that'll do, ths thing only costs £40k, customers can't expect everything to work properly"

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That's SO land rover isn't it?

You can just imgaine the scene at asssembly:

"'ere guvnor this transfer box knob won't fit"

"don't worry son the box probably wasn't made right- just bodge something"

"well i've got one of these old style knobs that seems to work"

"yeah that'll do, ths thing only costs £40k, customers can't expect everything to work properly"

Hi Chap's and chapettes (well you never know who is looking!) i have taken on board all the above advice (thank you very much) and i have a BW transfer box and a selector lever without the manual diff selection available. Is ashcroft the only recommended supplier of recon transfer boxes? I take it that their advice on replacing the whole box if the viscous coupling is seized is a good course of action? Any pitfalls to a DIY transfer box swap?

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Hi Chap's and chapettes (well you never know who is looking!) i have taken on board all the above advice (thank you very much) and i have a BW transfer box and a selector lever without the manual diff selection available. Is ashcroft the only recommended supplier of recon transfer boxes? I take it that their advice on replacing the whole box if the viscous coupling is seized is a good course of action? Any pitfalls to a DIY transfer box swap?

They're heavy buggers - apart from that it's pretty straightforward. Can be done with a good trolley jack, personally I'd beg, borrow or if all else fails buy a basic transmission jack (I've got one, but I'm in Birmingham).

Only snag I ran into was that if you tip the engine back too far (you need to tip it a bit to get the TB on and off the gearbox) you can snap the pipes off the heater matrix... :rolleyes: You don't want to do this, trust me - that's at least another full days work to sort out.

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If Ashcroft recommend a course of action you can be pretty bluddy certain it is the right thing to do.

Howver, it is possible to replace the viscous coupling on it's own. I suppose it boils down to the condition of the rest of the box, which I am sure Ashcroft would have taken into account before giving their advice.

Also, changing the whole box is a damn sight easier than changing the V/C.

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