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Rollcage Upgrade


Guest WALFY
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Guest WALFY

I nned to get my wing bars weded on soon, and thought that I would sort out the X bracing at the same time. I sent a few ideas to HFH to peruse and to make sure we get the best solution, he suggested that I post on here to tax your collective knowledge. I know I need triangles, but where is the best place to put them WITHOUT a whole new cage. The rear stays are that distance apart because I wanted to keep the use of the complete load be. They can go wider if needed but not narrower. As you can see I have a bar across under the screen but no bracing on the roof just the 4 sides so to speak.

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With your B pillar hoop where it is you will struggle to get decent lateral bracing in without adding in a lot of material. I think your best bet would be to move the B pillar hoop backwards so you can fit an in plane "X". Some other ideas after 10 seconds thinking, so a pinch of salt is required:

What you could do is add in an "X" that runs from the top of the B pillar hoop to the chassis as close to vertical as you can make fit. This would need to be pretty beefy as it will not be working as efficiently as a vertical "X" in the plane of the hoop. If you do some clever detailing you could make it removable for when you want to use the full load bed.

If you inclined this "X" so it joined the chassis at the rear cross member it would make the existing stays redundant (not doing much for end over end rolls anyhow as they stand) but the "X" would have to be even stronger as it will be even more inclined.

Another idea - put an "X" into the existing rear stays, then add an "X" from the bottom of the rear stays coming forward to the chassis rails at say 45 degrees.

I would also put some bracing in the roof - either an "X" or a "K" (from centre of windscreen)

My head hurts.... :blink:

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Guest WALFY

Bish

Your ideas do make sense but not what I wanted to hear. What I really nead is almost a new cage :angry: . A lot of cutting and shuting to get it up to spec. With this the cost goes up, which is something I'm trying to avoid

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Building off what you have without wanting to kill yourself over it:

1. Stick a diagonal in the 'roof rectangle' - don't bother with any more than that there.

2. Cut the rear stays out and reweld/make new ones that are more outboard. Bring them down to as near to the corner node as possible (where the bar across the back of the truck meets the bars along the outside of the rear tub). Looking at it, I doubt you'll manage a true node, but get the joints as close as poss and consider welding in a corner-filler type brace to help out (dimple die the carp out of it for extra bling and a 53.2% boost to your engine power).

3. Run a main hoop crossbrace (either single diagonal or (better) an 'X') as near to the back of the cab as you can get it from the newly relocated main stays to something chassis-esque down below. There will be out-of-plain misery between these (crossbrace/main stay) joints and the main hoop itself. But you could again brace it (potentially releasing yet more engine power if you haven't worn the dimple die out yet), and as long as you get it in as tight as poss it should be ok (run an X to be safer rather than a single diagonal). [Or you could curve the diagonals slightly to make everything meet up - still not in plain, but another option.]

4. Reach for beer, sit back and say 'nice one, that'll do'.

That's pretty much it, without rebuilding the lot.

By the way, I love the way you left room for a roof-mounted tent under your cage - now that's planning! ;):ph34r:

Just my thoughts, hope it helps.

Al.

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Guest WALFY

The truck was originaly a hardtop. And believe it or not it was tight to the roof. Surprising how much lower the t/c roof is. I think your idea makes sense and gives me some strength that I don't have at the moment.

With new side bars down to the rear hoop, is it best to glue them to the rear hoop or the rails along the side? Or doesn't it make a difference

Will wait for a few more ideas before I commit to any specific design, that way I can pick the best bits from the different ideas.

Thanks for the ideas so far. Keep them coming

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With new side bars down to the rear hoop, is it best to glue them to the rear hoop or the rails along the side? Or doesn't it make a difference

Shoot for right at the joint - so half of the end of the new rear stay is notched vertically, and half notched horizontally (or close depending on the actual rear stay angle).

You should aim to get all your joints to meet at the same place to create strong nodes, if you see what I mean - so new rear stays would be best to meet the rear node (of the rear-tub side bars and rear hoop). Failing that, get it as close as poss, consider if you can be bothered to brace it, and then call it good.

As a rule, its also worth putting your bars / joints at the furthest out point possible. So for example a new rear stay should be welded to the outermost point of the main hoop (ok in this case its a compromise of a lateral maximum and a vertical maximum, since you must choose a point on the curve of the main hoop corner, but anything is better than its current inboard position).

I was just kidding about the height - it doesn't look bad at all. :)

Al.

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Guest WALFY

What about if I had the new tubes glued on so that they "continue" through the B hoop from the tubes that are over the door. Would that help with the strength. Or does it need to go higher on the curve?

Thanks for the advice so far. Lots to ponder

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What about if I had the new tubes glued on so that they "continue" through the B hoop from the tubes that are over the door. Would that help with the strength. Or does it need to go higher on the curve?

Sure - that'll reinforce it. Intuitively though, I'd be shooting for 45 degrees round the bend of the main hoop (so half way between top crossbar and vertical side tube). Sadly that doesn't line up with your over-cab tubes. You could either cut them both out and replace with one that matches the rear stay, or just leave it and put the stay where you like.

Personally, given your desire not to spend the rest of your life building the cage, I'd go for the 45 dgree point on the main hoop curve for the rear stay, and just leave the bars where they are. It'll save you, surely thats the point.

All the other options that occur involve too much fab. I wouldn't have the rear stays mate with the main hoop any lower than the 45 degree point, personally. I think that overdoor bar height is just too low for it (plus it'd accentuate the 'tall' factor).

Dunno. Al.

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Guest WALFY

Al

Thanks for all the advice. I think I have a plan now. Just got to run it by the bloke who I want to do the work and work out costings ;) .

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Guest WALFY

Al

Thanks for all the advice. I think I have a plan now. Just got to run it by the bloke who I want to do the work and work out costings ;) .

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Guest WALFY

Tony

Don't show off cos you're with your mates now. You said you liked my cage the last time we spoke :D :D

That is exactly what I had in mind. Just got to make sure I lose a pound or two so I can get in :) :)

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Guest WALFY

ask_warne.gif

:hysterical:

Nige

Nige

Why would I ask some cricket gadgy about rollcages ;) . Does he do it as a sideline. When he's not knocking leather on willow. Does he frequent these pages or do you have his contact details :D :D

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Tony

Don't show off cos you're with your mates now. You said you liked my cage the last time we spoke :D :D

That is exactly what I had in mind. Just got to make sure I lose a pound or two so I can get in :) :)

few stone more like :)

your cage is special just like your needs :)

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Guest WALFY

I won't argue with that.

Bloody GPS thing you sold me. Stuggling to get it to talk with MM. Exchanged a few ideas with Mark90 but still bugging me. :angry: :angry:

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Guest WALFY

I'm trying to get it to work on a laptop. So slight difference, but if I can't get it to work then I'll bring it all over to get your input, Cheers

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