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Fitted the Mayflower winch


Betsy
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Finished of the Mayflower installation last night. Looks really good on the vehicle, and it works very smoothly to. Did a few test pulls by winching the Disco 3 up the drive a few time. The operation is smooth and very quiet. Its amazing how the 2/14 engine can pull the D3 up the hill without even straining. It just keeps idling away. I've not tried straining the winch until I get the proper shear pins. I have some on order.

Here's some pictures.

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Looks great!

But if possible, I would inverse the way the cable is spooled on the drum, i.e. from the bottom instead of the top. This will make a huge difference in the strain put on the bolts securing the winch.

Greetz,

Filip

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Looks great!

But if possible, I would inverse the way the cable is spooled on the drum, i.e. from the bottom instead of the top. This will make a huge difference in the strain put on the bolts securing the winch.

Greetz,

Filip

How do I do that then? the drum turns one way when using forward gears, the other in reverse. To do what you say would mean winching in reverse? I have downloaded an installation and operation manua, and it says winching is normally done in 4th gear. I can see what you mean though, but it sure is a heavy duty mounting.

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Hmm, I was afraid it would be difficult with the PTO-coupling. If it's designed that way, it should be OK I guess, but it's the first time I see a winch spooled like that (apart from that one electric winch whose owner had unknowingly swithed the connections :rolleyes: ).

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I've had no issues with the mounting, its solid and fixed to both chassis rails and the front crossmember on mine, will pull forever in a low gear.

Good luck, but make sure you have a decent cable, I use 12mm plasma on my front winch and 11mm wire on the rear without problems.

These winches could pull a house down.

Make sure you 've got a decent strop for the other end as you'll need it if pulling someone out.

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With the mounting points effectively in line with the centre line of the drum, surely it doesn't matter if the rope comes off the top or te bottom of the drum? The bolts will see the same force either way...

???

Mark

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Are you running the landy on parabolics?? If yes ... are they standard?? i mean do the standard ones manage to support the weight of the winch?

thanks

Yes, CP Components parabolics, with extended shackles. They seem ok. I have not gone off-road yet, but they seem to be fine so far.

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The cable is spooled on the correct way. These winches are designed that way!

Just one question - is your centre bearing mounted to the sump bolts? If so then you've got the sliding joint in the wrong place. Its designed to take acount of the engine/box moving backwards and forwards on the rubber mounts. If the centre bearing is chassis mounted then its fine where it is, but if its mounted to the engine then it needs moving to the front rod between the winch and the centre bearing.

When i had one of these on mine I never broke a shear pin funnily enough. Most people tend to fit the prescision calibrated HT bolt however!

Jon

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With the mounting points effectively in line with the centre line of the drum, surely it doesn't matter if the rope comes off the top or te bottom of the drum? The bolts will see the same force either way...

???

Mark

The mounting bolts are on the bottom of the winch. If the cable comes of the top of the drum, this represent a far larger lever compared to the situation where the cabel comes of at the bottom, close to the chassis. The resulting torque depends on the length of the lever and must be handled by the mounting bolts, with the rear one being pulled up and the front one pushed down.

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The mounting bolts are not in the bottom of this winch - take a look at the pics.

This winch is correctly mounted and the cable is correctly spooled.

Jon

I think I see what you mean, the winch lies partly between the chassis-arms, right? That would indeed accomplish a good distribution of the forces.

BTW, I never stated the winch was mounted incorrectly, I just wondered about the cable coming off the top.

Thx for clearing it up!

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Correct - the winch comes within a purpose designed cradle that was made specifically to fit the series chassis. Infact the cradle is almost an integral part of the winch.

These are beautifully engineered bits of kit, that were made to a quality and not to a price. You'll find no plastic anywhere on these, and everything is on proper bearings no bronze bushes etc.

They're also immensely powerful, and will carry on working for as long as your engine is running! No flat batteries etc to worry about!

Jon

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  • 2 weeks later...

B) First use in anger over the weekend

Hauling my 2a up a rocky lane. I would normally have driven up, but was anxious to try the winch out. My mate in his Disco drove up the lane first and then we attached the cable, and started winching.

All was going very smooth until the front wheel came up against a large rock. Then the shear pin broke! I now know how big a pain that would be if she was stuck up to her windows in mud!. I have a cubby box in the middle, and have to crawl under to replace it.

I then drove it up over the rock, and carried on winching.

The one thing with these winches, is you cannot really tell how hard its pulling until the pin breaks. I was winching in 2nd gear, as 4th seemed a little fast. The cable had also bunched up on one side of the drum, so that may have contributed to the pin shearing.

Anyway, I shall be thinking of modifying the cubby box to allow a hatch in the bottom to get to the pin a little easier.

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It looks like a lovely job, and a nice bit of kit - I quite fancy one for my IIA. Problem is with the overdrive stuffed into the PTO hole... Did they do a conversion to drive one of these off the engine crank directly??

Ta

Mark

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Finished of the Mayflower installation last night. Looks really good on the vehicle,

<SNIP>

Too right it does that looks just great... slightly green with envy. Really nice job.

Now the stupid question - how does one of these work - I am guessing there is some sort of take off from the gear box -

Excuse my ignorance but I'm still new to all this Series stuff....

Edit - derr sorry ignore me I've just looked properly at the pics (last one) which of course answer the question.

PS could still do with a pic of the gubbins connecting your raised air intake to the air cleaner - cheers if you get chance.

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It looks like a lovely job, and a nice bit of kit - I quite fancy one for my IIA. Problem is with the overdrive stuffed into the PTO hole... Did they do a conversion to drive one of these off the engine crank directly??

Ta

Mark

Some Fairey overdrives had a dog to engage a PTO, don't know serial nos or whether you need a special PTO.

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Too right it does that looks just great... slightly green with envy. Really nice job.

Now the stupid question - how does one of these work - I am guessing there is some sort of take off from the gear box -

Excuse my ignorance but I'm still new to all this Series stuff....

Edit - derr sorry ignore me I've just looked properly at the pics (last one) which of course answer the question.

PS could still do with a pic of the gubbins connecting your raised air intake to the air cleaner - cheers if you get chance.

I'll try and remember when it stops raining!

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With the mounting points effectively in line with the centre line of the drum, surely it doesn't matter if the rope comes off the top or te bottom of the drum? The bolts will see the same force either way...

???

Mark

It's all in the leverage isn't it??? If the cable is off the top it's got a good two or three times the leverage on the back bolts (in tension) than if it's off the bottom... Or am I missing something ? ( As I usually am at this time of night after a few pints of Black Sheep :) )

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It's all in the leverage isn't it??? If the cable is off the top it's got a good two or three times the leverage on the back bolts (in tension) than if it's off the bottom... Or am I missing something ? ( As I usually am at this time of night after a few pints of Black Sheep :) )

oops... Sorry - please ignore this lode of twaddle. Just read the rest of the thred... I better go to bed now :)

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My point was that since the winch seems t be sitting good and low between the chassis rails, the actual bolts holding the winch down seem to be pretty much in line with the centre line of the drum rather than at the bottom as per the conventional electric drum winches (Husky, EP9, etc), therefore the leverage seen at the bolts is very much less. Equally, since the mounting point is on the centre line, the leverage on the bolts would be the same if the rope came off the top or off the bottom of the drum...

does that make sense???

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I always found 2nd gear to be about right for winching. Can can tell how hard they're working to an extent cos the U/j's tend to start to rattle!

I think you've foud the reason why people tend to replace the shaer pin with an HT bolt!

Cheers

Jon

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It looks like a lovely job, and a nice bit of kit - I quite fancy one for my IIA. Problem is with the overdrive stuffed into the PTO hole... Did they do a conversion to drive one of these off the engine crank directly??

Ta

Mark

No - you have the choice - overdrive or pto winch. You cant have both! The only crank driven winches I've ever seen are the capstan ones.

Cheers

Jon

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