white90 Posted October 16, 2005 Share Posted October 16, 2005 For a tech archive topic. can you post here what you've done, pics if you have any would be great. Thanks Tony the phrase "fit a TDI" isn't need thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted October 16, 2005 Share Posted October 16, 2005 1) Gen dizzy cap and leads with all connections greased (NB not copperslip or graphite as they conduct) Can make unwanted arc's 2) last resort wrap the dizy with bubble wrap quit tight 3) if its a hot wire system the coil will need to go into a sealed box as any water/steem will knock the coil out instantly 4) carb engines suffer more from steam intake than injection's do but still a big issue a snorkal is a must with a correctly sealed air system That all you need to do I know what my engine will and wont deal with this is why people are always shocked at how good the car is in water, but because I don't take the pi55 out of her so she doesn't let me down. There is only one time when she has failed in water and that was when I had just fitted the 4.2 an I did not know about the hot wire issues Remember a V8 is never going to be as good in water as a TDi so don't push it too far like a tdi will never climb as well as a V8. both facts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cols110 Posted October 16, 2005 Share Posted October 16, 2005 I had good results with smearing silicon grease between all of the plug lead caps and the dizzy cover and the top of the coil, and a smear of it between the dizzy cap and dizzy body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reads90 Posted October 16, 2005 Share Posted October 16, 2005 as i have already posted this before , but to show again. This is Jules 90 in water and the only v8 to make it though this water To some that may say it is not that deep , remeber the truck is on 35" simex and has a 4" lift Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted October 16, 2005 Share Posted October 16, 2005 AS Jon W about V8s and water, He has tried LOADS of tweaks, some have been igenoiyus and have taken hours, problem though for him is if his V8 goes anywhere off road where 2 mice are ahving a water pistiol fight his will stop instantly. We are both pursing a range of whizzy options, so expect some posts on this much later on... In the meantime many have said and I would agree : 1. Do NOT use pattern caps, use a genuine Lucas 2. Same for Rotor Arm 3. Protect 3.9 amp on dizzy - fit remote kit 4. Fit Bosch Coil 5. Fit genuine leads, or better still Magncor 6. Do NOT use Champion Plugs, use NGKs 7. Shield over Cap either fizzy bottle of flash effort, but something 8. Get ECU up hig, or out of harms way or boxed 9. If you can remove viscous fan, replace electrics then switch off when in water so fan doesn't spray everywhere 10. On 3.5 Flapper systems, seal or protect resistor pack (silver box 1.5 x 4 inches) esp where plug goes in 11. Carry Giant WD40 tin at all times Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted October 16, 2005 Share Posted October 16, 2005 On dad's RR he's done the (very) budget version: 1) Snorkel - £20 of B&Q drainpipe and some silicone/gaffa tape 2) Ice-cream tub strapped over the coil with bungee 3) Ice-cream tub strapped over the dizzy with bungee OK it still coughs in deep water but it's surprisingly resilient. Will get some piccies of engine bay if I can find 'em, failing that I'll take some Went through this LOTS of times just to make sure Oh and: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budgie Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 For light water use: 1.Plastic or metal shield to cover the front of the dizzy and stop any spray getting on it. 2.Silicone grease around the base of the dizzy cap to seal it. 3.Holts Easy Start spray on the all the leads. Pull up the rubber cap and spray the top of the dizzy cap and the lead, then slide the rubber cap into place before the Easy Start dries. Do the same on the coil. 4. As stated above about getting an electric fan fitted with a switch and loose the viscous one. These work okay on a carb V8, not sure about EFi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev Baldwin Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 Anyone remember the 'Genuine' V8 waterproofing kit Craddocks were selling something like 10yrs ago. It had a replacement cap that you screwed new braided plug leads into. The new braided leads also screwed on the plugs to create a sealed system. Not sure what happened to the coil. It looked a typical military style OTT thing. I knew a guy who bought one of the last sets from Craddocks. They told him they only wished they had a load more as it was one of the best selling items. Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pugwash Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 I am really interested in this as i am "trying" to make my V8 completely waterproof too. Few things i am doing: A: replace whole ignition system with Megasquirt- use top quality leads and create a setting silicon plug to fit into each of the plugs at the block end. Use heat tape to seal the leads onto the coil packs. Coil packs themselves are already sealed but i might put them in IP56 enclosures to be safe b: Sight ecu on roof console along with most of the switch gear, radio, CB etc c: Taking engine timing from a flywheel mounted sensor- seal up the g/box with lots of silicone and fit expansion pipe where necessary d: try and find a Luca waterproof alternator as used on Winterised Wolfs e: Install seales batteries in rear tub, in a box, which is itself totally sealed apart from vent valves f: Setup extended fuel tank breather with one way valve g: Eleccy fan kill switch that will also kll the signal going form the engine temp control to megasquirt to stop engine temp dropping too quickly and causing the MS to start enrichment which may stall the engine (this latter part might not work) h: Snorkel, obviously i: Underengine skid protection which i reckon would stop most of the water gettting in anyway j: vents on side of vehicle pointing backwards whcih i would hope will work as self extracters as long as you are travelling forward- just like in the bottom of dinghies I am sure that there is some other stuff that i i will do too- most importantly i won't do any of the engine stuff until i am certain that it works properly and completely! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 g: Eleccy fan kill switch that will also kll the signal going form the engine temp control to megasquirt to stop engine temp dropping too quickly and causing the MS to start enrichment which may stall the engine (this latter part might not work) Why not just set the cold start enrichment right in the first place, or set it on the lean side if you still have a problem? The only time I've heard this cause a problem was a new install who drove into an iced-over pond to try it out so perhaps he just hadn't set the warmup enrichments quite right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pugwash Posted October 17, 2005 Share Posted October 17, 2005 Why not just set the cold start enrichment right in the first place, or set it on the lean side if you still have a problem? The only time I've heard this cause a problem was a new install who drove into an iced-over pond to try it out so perhaps he just hadn't set the warmup enrichments quite right? Hey fridge, long time no speaky yeah i heard about that one too- but he's not the only one i've heard about.- if then engine temp picks up cold temps then it will automatically enrichen won't it? and if you are only idling then any significant enrichment would kill the engine dead surely? or i am being really thick here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted October 18, 2005 Share Posted October 18, 2005 Hmmm, think you have to get pretty rich before a V8 will stall. The problem is that tuning the cold start is a PITA 'cos you've got to get the engine COLD to do it, and as soon as it warms up you've lost your chance. I never did mine properly, just stuck with the values from Phil Ringwood's setup which was a supercharged 3.5. It worked OK but I suspect it was on the rich side of things. The coolant temp override isn't a bad idea though, all it takes is a SPDT switch and a resistor: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted October 18, 2005 Author Share Posted October 18, 2005 John can I link to your website in the tech section for the megasquirt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted October 18, 2005 Share Posted October 18, 2005 No problem, you might want to link to Dan's too: http://www.getmuddy.co.uk/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bathtub Posted October 18, 2005 Share Posted October 18, 2005 Bigger tyres. Bigger lift. Or electric fans instead of viscous makes more difference to mine than any other mod. Last depending on water hole size just hit it faster so when it dies at least your in the dry!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted October 18, 2005 Share Posted October 18, 2005 Pete, you also forgot to mention that (unusally) your 'top tips' for Waterproofing V8 include a rev limiter...... a 1st, ........nobody has thought or even mentioned that mod of yours ! Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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