JimAttrill Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 "Surely my gauge and John's can't be the only ones supplied by Landrover that seem to work ok? " Well my complaint covers the vehicles I know well, which are the 300tdi and TD5 Defenders. Maybe the previous vehicles worked well. This seems to be the case, judging by the replies on this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 I had read something somewhere....about the NAS 110s having a little conditioning board in the line that prevented the gauge from changing from "normal". I wonder if this is a feature of the 300TDI and later models. Ahhhh, here: http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5409 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 I had read something somewhere....about the NAS 110s having a little conditioning board in the line that prevented the gauge from changing from "normal". I wonder if this is a feature of the 300TDI and later models.Ahhhh, here: http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5409 Well I've had my dash panel out on many occasions and haven't found anything like that. In fact IMO Land Rover don't fit a temperature gauge to their vehivles. Just a round dial with a needle that moves in an obscure manner not on any scale. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muck Truck Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 Thats why i changed the LR gauge for a electric temperature gauge (tim, that shows temperature) so i had a better idea of what the real engine temp was. Ok the new gauge may not be 100% accurate, but its 100% more accurate than a gauge with a white and red section that gives no indication of temperature. Having changed to the new temp gauge it confirmed my old gauge kind of worked as it should but its piece of mind you can actually see a real temperature reading. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 OK guys , don’t twist up your knickers …………. On most, if not all gauges of the Cold/ normal/ Hot variety…………… normal is roughly 90C and just as it enters the red (about ¾) is 100C ……….. most just start to lift off the cold stop at 40C I know what john is saying ……………… if you watch the gauge from cold it will go to slightly above normal and the suddenly drop back to below normal as the thermostat opens and lets in a flood of cooler coolant ………… thermostats have a large hystersis ................ it will then slowly centralise at about normal as the engine will run at just above thermostat temp (mostly 88C).............. Me ………….. I use Autometer Competition instruments, probably a name that John is familiar with …….. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 OK guys , don’t twist up your knickers …………. On most, if not all gauges of the Cold/ normal/ Hot variety…………… normal is roughly 90C and just as it enters the red (about ¾) is 100C ……….. most just start to lift off the cold stop at 40C Ian Mine didn't. I used to have a paper pointer on my Land Rover gauge where the needle sat for "normal" temperature. It only rose 1mm up to over boiling point. That's why I bought a SPA-UK gauge. Cheap as chips at £130. A lot cheaper than an engine. It's a stepper motor gauge, what ever that is but I'm told it's very accurate. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreadnought110 Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 I have a 300 tdi in mine with vdo gauge it sits most of the time at 90oC thrash it and it goes up to around 100 ish don't know if this is right struggling to find what temp i should expect?? looking at most trucks etc... this seems right but after spending over a grand on rebuilding the head i too am always panicking Oh and the viscous seems to cut in at 95oC is this right?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 I have a 300 tdi in mine with vdo gauge it sits most of the time at 90oC thrash it and it goes up to around 100 ish don't know if this is right struggling to find what temp i should expect?? looking at most trucks etc... this seems right but after spending over a grand on rebuilding the head i too am always panicking Oh and the viscous seems to cut in at 95oC is this right?? My 300Tdi temperature gauge sits at 86 deg C then when I thrash it up an incline it goes to 91 deg C. I've just re set the warning light to 95deg C and the fan is set to come on at 95degC. I've also geya coolant loss warning light and a coolant level check light. Not bad for somebody that isn't keen on electronic things.... mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROB 110 HICAP Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 Not read all the replies yet (lazy) but try a 19J 2.5TD temp sender and it should read right as the Defender one will be matched to Defender temp gauge, so you need the other one to match your 19J gauge. I've got a 200tdi Disco lump in mine with 19J sender and its vertical in normal driving Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonb Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 I have a 300 tdi in mine with vdo gauge it sits most of the time at 90oC thrash it and it goes up to around 100 ish don't know if this is right struggling to find what temp i should expect?? looking at most trucks etc... this seems right but after spending over a grand on rebuilding the head i too am always panicking Oh and the viscous seems to cut in at 95oC is this right?? Mine sits at 90 once the thermostat has opened, doesn't really ever go higher than that even when thrashed, never heard my viscous ever actually "lock up" when hot but does decouple ok from cold so it looks like its working ok. How olds your rad? once they get to 100k miles, they start loosing metal from the fins and they tend to loose efficency. I've just gone through the head rebuild as well, mpg has improved from 24 to 29mpg though... - I drive with a heavy right foot, but since the new head, its got more torque and I can drive round using far less boost, less than 0.5 bar most of the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin90 Posted July 14, 2007 Share Posted July 14, 2007 Thanks guys, I've just purchased a VDO temp gauge for my 90 based on this thread, ebay £16 brand new! Now just waiting for my sender unit to arrive from Europa. Put a Mazda 35SL in a TD, got it running for the first time this week and it was sitting right on the top of the scale dispite no signs that the engine was boiling etc. Fitted a brand new disco TD5 rad in it so don't think there is an issue! Hopefully the VDO will prove it!! Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted July 14, 2007 Share Posted July 14, 2007 My 300tdi takes a good 15km to warm up properly, and then the VDO gauge sits at 90-92 depending on speed. In very hot weather with a full load, going uphill I have seen 105c on the clock. At that point I switch on my aircon fan, though it doesn't seem to make much difference. I have a standard setup, viscous and all. Electric fans don't work in this climate. Also they are unreliable, not the fans themselves, but the switches and wiring tend to break or fall to bits. An engine is too expensive to take the chance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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