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200tdi 90 temp guage reading


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Hi Folks,

know its been covered before but cant find it at all.

Done a 200tdi conversion into a 2.5Td 90 put a defender 200tdi temp sender unit in.

Where does your gauge sit? Mine is reading just on the top end of the white with normal driving.

Is this normal?

Cheers folks

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Mine (200tdi) used to sit at top end of the white while motorway driving at 60 ish, anything over 60 and it would go very close to the red. i fitted a tims temp gauge that sat at 90-95 degree ish at 60 on motorway and would start to get to 100 if i tried to go above 60.

Fitted a new radiator and it now sits at 90 degree at 70-75 in the hot weather we had afew weeks ago. The old radiator had no fins and the clogged with mud in patches.

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And it gets worse than that. The Defender TD5 gauge IS made by VDO and gets a perfectly accurate temp reading from the ECU. (I know, cos you can see the temp on the pooter). But then it acts just like any other LR gauge, ie 'in the middle' from 40c to 115c. And if you want a real laugh, try pricing one at your local friendly stealer. It is the price of 3 normal VDO 40-120c gauges and senders. :angry:

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Mine is 200tdi disco engine with the guage from petrol engine and sender from petrol engine. It sits to the right of vertical, just before the black, it remains here watever speed or conditions, that is with no fans running. I think the rad is a bit knackered and i need to sort ssome fans out too.

Jon

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Mine is 200tdi disco engine with the guage from petrol engine and sender from petrol engine. It sits to the right of vertical, just before the black, it remains here watever speed or conditions, that is with no fans running. I think the rad is a bit knackered and i need to sort ssome fans out too.

Jon

That's the problem with LR gauges, they never move (until your engine explodes). I would fit a decent gauge and sender and then, when you have your rad done or fit some fans you will be able to see the difference. At least you will feel that something has happened :rolleyes:

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Hi Folks,

know its been covered before but cant find it at all.

Done a 200tdi conversion into a 2.5Td 90 put a defender 200tdi temp sender unit in.

Where does your gauge sit? Mine is reading just on the top end of the white with normal driving.

Is this normal?

Cheers folks

In the hybrid I have a 200 TDI mated to a series III gauge (I don't know what the sender unit is from - it could be RR petrol...) & the same issue - the rad is sound & large enough & even with a large electric fan it quickly gets up to the top of the white - and sits there - but doesn't go much into the red even when working hard with the fan kicked in. It bothered me at first but doesn't now.

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My gauge seems to be pretty responsive.

Normal driving it sits vertical.

Hammering down the motorway gets it to the end of the white scale, towards the red zone.

I put this down to having pretty much no fins left on the radiator <_<

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That's the problem with LR gauges, they never move (until your engine explodes). I would fit a decent gauge and sender and then, when you have your rad done or fit some fans you will be able to see the difference. At least you will feel that something has happened :rolleyes:

The gauge in my 90 (ex-MOD with 200TDI) responds properly to temperature changes.

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The gauge in my 90 (ex-MOD with 200TDI) responds properly to temperature changes.

Aaah but as Jim says, if u measure the actual water temp with a thermocouple, I bet you your gauge will show "normal" for water temps between 40 and 110 degrees C. Believe me, i've been there done that and measured several, they are always the same...

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Nope, definetly not.

I've had it heat up from a mud plugged rad and it reacts correctly and was not boiling over if kept out of the red. I would agree that the gauge range is around 40 to 110C, which is what it should be.

Maybe other ones are different, but mine has a very linear range. I can actually see the thermostat opening from the gauge.

I run multi million dollar test eqipment for a living and I am very familiar with temperature measurement, displays and sensor response.

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Nope, definetly not.

I've had it heat up from a mud plugged rad and it reacts correctly and was not boiling over if kept out of the red. I would agree that the gauge range is around 40 to 110C, which is what it should be.

Maybe other ones are different, but mine has a very linear range. I can actually see the thermostat opening from the gauge.

I run multi million dollar test eqipment for a living and I am very familiar with temperature measurement, displays and sensor response.

So you can see a five degree rise in temperature and KNOW that the temperature has gone from 86Degrees to 91degrees on a standard Land Rover temperature gauge on your Defender.

Please explain how.

mike

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So you can see a five degree rise in temperature and KNOW that the temperature has gone from 86Degrees to 91degrees on a standard Land Rover temperature gauge on your Defender.

Please explain how.

mike

The needle moves.

The posters above are saying that the needle stays in the "normal" position from 40 to 110C. All that I am saying is that MY GAUGE, does not act that way. It gives a reasonably linear reading in its 90 degree sweep of around 40 to 110 C. This is the same way that a VDO gauge works. If you want specific number readings like 86C, you need a digital gauge or a very narrow range analog.

I am not saying that the posters above are wrong. I am just stating my experience with my vehicle.

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The needle moves.

So the needle move.

What temperature is the vehicle running at in degrees? That is what I would like to know.

Let's look at this. The needle sits in the middle in tha gauge.Fine but the actual temperature could be 100 degrees in the engine. It move lets say 2mm that's about ten degrees.

One blown engine.

I'll repeat my question

HOW DO YOU KNOW WHAT TEMPERATURE IN DEGREES THAT THE ENGINE IS RUNNING AT. You have stated that you know that the needle moves. From what to what ?

Please answer what I asked.

mike

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Mike,

You really need to learn how to talk to people.

I KNOW that the water is not boiling at the top of the "white" section with the cap off, so it still below around 105 C or so. I know that it enters the lower part of the white section around 60 C. I know that the thermostat opens at 88 C... It is new and I tested it before installation.

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Mike,

You really need to learn how to talk to people.

I KNOW that the water is not boiling at the top of the "white" section with the cap off, so it still below around 105 C or so. I know that it enters the lower part of the white section around 60 C. I know that the thermostat opens at 88 C... It is new and I tested it before installation.

At least I have a name.

You have no idea what the temperature of your engine is do you. It's between 60 Degrees C and 105Deg C as as has already been said.

My temperature warning light is set ast 95 degrees C.

I have this thermometer. I have to know what the temperature is. it only reads hi to low. That must be one of your good pieces.

For me I user a tempetratutre gauge that tells me the temperature. Yes the temperature not some obscure reading.

Ye see not many people will pay goodmoney for a proper temperature gauge. They will pay over a £1,000 for an engine. Up to 5,000 or more but not the money to know what the engine temperature is.

Then cry when it overheats.

At least I use my name mike.

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The name's John, if you must know, as I'm sure most around here already do.

If I have time, I'll do a full gauge calibration for you. As stated, I have millions of dollars worth of test equipment available and I spend too much of my life testing and measuring things. I'm quite confident the gauge is working fine and the range and accuracy are suitable for the duty.

That said, I will throw a VDO in one day, but just for the looks, not for function and will add an audible alarm at the same time.

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Guest WALFY
:lol:

I was wondering if it is the newer gauges that are the problem. Perhaps having signal conditioning in the line somewhere. Or have you guys tested new and old?

Mine is from a 1991 ex British army vehicle.

Then I'm very surprised it works. Knowing how we treat them :o :o :o :o

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I have to say I seem to be one of the lucky ones too in that case. The temp gauge in my 1985 110 2.5 petrol does exactly what I expect of it too.

The 82 degree thermostat opens when the needle gets to between the quarter mark and the middle of the gauge, and the electric cooling fan comes on when the needle just goes past the 3/4 mark on the gauge. The switch is in the top hose and set to come on at 92 degrees. It cuts off when the temp is at 87 degrees at which point the needle is just above the middle of the gauge. Given that the top hose rad switch position is probably 3 or 5 degrees cooler than the actual cylinder head temp. This means my gauge is working fine and with the normal running temp of the needle in the middle, I am confident that I can rely on my gauge.

Surely my gauge and John's can't be the only ones supplied by Landrover that seem to work ok?

Regards,

Diff

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