Exmoor Beast Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 I saw someone making 3 piece centre crossmembers for 110s a while back but didn't keep the details. Does anyone have a contact number or weblink for the company? My 110s needs replacing before the end of summer waxoil session. Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewart Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 SUMMER Lucky you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Neale Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 I saw someone making 3 piece centre crossmembers for 110s a while back but didn't keep the details. Does anyone have a contact number or weblink for the company?My 110s needs replacing before the end of summer waxoil session. Will Will, I've replied over on LRA with the info you want mate. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 Will,I've replied over on LRA with the info you want mate. Matt Not much help to the rest of us if you do not repeat it here. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 This is probably going to be a daft question, but why have a 3-piece crossmember? Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 13, 2007 Share Posted July 13, 2007 Easier to fit into the restricted space, otherwise it's a rear footwell & the triangular panels below the rear side doors off job. Joe Edwards Automotive Engineering Ltd The Haulage Yard Bedford St Leighton Buzzard Beds LU7 8JE email Joe_edwards@talk21.com 01525 851795 mob 07712 441314 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exmoor Beast Posted June 2, 2008 Author Share Posted June 2, 2008 Right here we are nearly a year on and I am finally getting round to this In my wisdom I decided to completely ignore my own initial thoughts that a 3 piece cross member was a good idea and ordered a one piece one. Well how difficult can it be I thought. blinking difficult thats how! took me a day and a half to get the old crossmember out because the 110 was blocked in and I couldn't get it near a power supply or get the generator started to use the angle grinder. I have so far got the old one out and the chassis cleaned up, painted and waxoyled ready for the new one to go in. The triangular panels under the side doors are out. Has anyone else worked out an easyish way of getting the new one in? Removing the footwell is a non starter as the rollcage goes through it, I might be able to lift it up a bit though. All the fixings are rusty and I still can't get close to power at the moment so everything has to be removed with hand tools which is absolutely no fun at all. Absolutely any advice welcome. Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diff Posted June 2, 2008 Share Posted June 2, 2008 Right here we are nearly a year on and I am finally getting round to this In my wisdom I decided to completely ignore my own initial thoughts that a 3 piece cross member was a good idea and ordered a one piece one. Well how difficult can it be I thought. blinking difficult thats how! took me a day and a half to get the old crossmember out because the 110 was blocked in and I couldn't get it near a power supply or get the generator started to use the angle grinder. I have so far got the old one out and the chassis cleaned up, painted and waxoyled ready for the new one to go in. The triangular panels under the side doors are out. Has anyone else worked out an easyish way of getting the new one in? Removing the footwell is a non starter as the rollcage goes through it, I might be able to lift it up a bit though. All the fixings are rusty and I still can't get close to power at the moment so everything has to be removed with hand tools which is absolutely no fun at all. Absolutely any advice welcome. Will Hi Will, I did mine last year. There was no way I could do it without cutting it in half. In the end, I cut off both of the body mounting brackets from the new crossmember as well as cutting it in half. I then removed the passenger side sill and fiddled the two bits in. Very tight. Once in, I welded the two halves together, and welded the body mounting brackets back on. I didn't take the rear floor out. Getting the mounting bolts through the crossmember is fiddly and I think I had to put the front ones in upside down, ie from the bottom up. (may have trimmed them first so they didn't hit the floor when fitted). If I was doing it again, I would cut it into 3 pieces (making sure the cuts aren't over the chassis rails or you won't have enough access to weld). Hope this helps, Good Luck, Regards, Diff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 2, 2008 Share Posted June 2, 2008 Last time mine was replaced it was cut in half & welded back together once in place & bolted up to the chassis/body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exmoor Beast Posted June 4, 2008 Author Share Posted June 4, 2008 I have done it Loosened and removed some of the floor, took the triangular under door panels out and then when it was about 6mm short of going in I used the old school method of using a tree strop and a Freelander to 'ease' it in. Jobs a goodun Needless to say I will be waxoyling it every week to make sure I don't ever have to do it again Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stobbie Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 waxoyl is rubbish.... Waxoyl is popular in the UK. I buy a lot of cars in the UK, most of them have waxoyl, also, most of them are rusty. Rust continues under the waxoyl. Here in the Netherlands a lot of people paint the chassis with a good primer and put a good paint topcoat on that. These cars stay in far better condition. The rear body crossmember is one of the worst bits of any 110, iwhenever I put a new one in, I always have it galvanised... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 Paint is all very good, but Waxoyl is still my preferred method of cavity protection, apart from galv of course, but that's just too much Waxoyl kept a very rusty old Metro of mine on the road for probably another 4 years after the MOT station condemned it, it barely deteriorated in that time, and all that was was 6 monthly treatments, it does work! I'd never use the Waxoyl underseal or the clear stuff on the outside of a chassis, it is too soft and will just wash off, especially as we all partial to pressure washing these days, 3 coats of satin black smoothrite has always worked well for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stobbie Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 Paint is all very good, but Waxoyl is still my preferred method of cavity protection OK, for cavity protection it's OK, but for the outside it's not good... A lot of land rover chassis over here are protected on the inside with linseed oil, that's also very good (and very cheap). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
honitonhobbit Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 Land Rover used to use Lanolin... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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