russ1 Posted October 6, 2007 Share Posted October 6, 2007 Afternoon. I am looking into 4-linking the backend of my landy. I am abit unsure what kind of joints to use. Has any one got any info on 4-linking and the best joints to use. Any help would be gr8. Thanks Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted October 6, 2007 Share Posted October 6, 2007 Just out of interest, what have you done to your front suspension that you need to get more out of rear? Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russ1 Posted October 6, 2007 Author Share Posted October 6, 2007 Tbh mate i havent done anything to the front as yet just doing the rear then moing on to do the fronts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petergg Posted October 6, 2007 Share Posted October 6, 2007 Afternoon.I am looking into 4-linking the backend of my landy. I am abit unsure what kind of joints to use. Has any one got any info on 4-linking and the best joints to use. Any help would be gr8. Thanks Russ This is how I have done mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted October 6, 2007 Share Posted October 6, 2007 This is how I have done mine. You could do a lot worse than looking at what Pete's done - Jonny Joints are fairly cheap and work pretty well. Nth degree mobility gyro joints are another option although I've heard these need a fair amount of work to make them perform as they should. I personally like the X-joint - I've got some reserved for when the first batch are ready. IMHO they're a very elegant solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted October 6, 2007 Share Posted October 6, 2007 Hmmmm Do you really what to go through the amount of work cost and complexity of a 4 link rear ???? There is a huge amount of improvemtn you can gain on the rear for a fraction of the 4 link time cost complexity scenario, all the more so when the front end is the one which is a real piggy to get to flex better over std. IMHO you may be better turning your attebntion to the front axle end and serious mods and costs as the rear can be made much better easily and cheaply. Its no use IMHO have shed loads of flex at the rear and not have it even close to matched at the front end ? Just a thought Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russ1 Posted October 6, 2007 Author Share Posted October 6, 2007 Nige You say there is loads ov things you can do to the rear insted of the 4 link way. Can you shed some light on these as i am open 2 all ideas. Will Am trying to come up with different ideas for the setup you showed me just to solve the a-frame problem. Thanks again ppl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted October 7, 2007 Share Posted October 7, 2007 Nige You say there is loads ov things you can do to the rear insted of the 4 link way. Can you shed some light on these as i am open 2 all ideas. Will Am trying to come up with different ideas for the setup you showed me just to solve the a-frame problem. Thanks again ppl Match springs for pundage and length for ride height. Cranked arms, disc / relocating cones, raise top mounts and fit huegly longer shocks, make the washers like a saucer shape rather than flat, fit X-joints / better A frame joint, or even rose joint, reduce bump stop heights, raise up wheel boxes etc etc The front is a much more tricky prob to get around, 3 link is one options as many have done - I looked but decided against for a raft of reasons - mainly the high risk with road use seeing too many hedges too close Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted October 7, 2007 Share Posted October 7, 2007 Actually, you already have a 4 link really. Jusr because the toplinks use the same joint, doesnt make it work any different. So I cant see much point to change, unless you really need massive travel, but as said before, start looking at the front first. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russ1 Posted October 7, 2007 Author Share Posted October 7, 2007 I already am runing most of them things, I have bought the mx6 dampers from will and am looking into making somthing with big travel. I have Cranked arms, disc / relocating cones, of the d44 kind, ome springs and dampers. The design Will has shown me looks really good but its the a-frame thats limiting the setup so i need to get around this. will be using all the stuff above but will be replacing the dampers with the longer travel mx6. Thanks again for all your ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted October 7, 2007 Share Posted October 7, 2007 I already am runing most of them things, I have bought the mx6 dampers from will and am looking into making somthing with big travel.I have Cranked arms, disc / relocating cones, of the d44 kind, ome springs and dampers. The design Will has shown me looks really good but its the a-frame thats limiting the setup so i need to get around this. will be using all the stuff above but will be replacing the dampers with the longer travel mx6. Thanks again for all your ideas. OME springs will mean for pure flex it will be oversprung dampers will limit even more MX6 dampers have less travel available than +5 Procomp stds STD A Frame ball joint locks at 17.5-18 degrees travle, other ball joints can get you to 22 degrees, X_Eng do something too The front is the issue ! Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T1G UP Posted October 7, 2007 Share Posted October 7, 2007 Been look9ing at this and the front IS the problem,the rear can be made to flex,just look at the X eng site for there springs etc. Been looking at using the rear A arm on the front with somw home made arms eta or a full 4/5 link. Engine gets in the way mostly so big lift is needed from what i can see to give some room. I've found some stuff on t'internet like this 4 link Loads of info around. Petes set up looks great on the 90. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted October 7, 2007 Share Posted October 7, 2007 Engine gets in the way mostly so big lift is needed from what i can see to give some room. Mine clears the engine with no lift When I was evaluating potential suspension designs for the front there was space for 1 link and panhard, three link and panhard (even with upper third), four link and panhard (five link), upside down four link, and the upside down four link/A frame thing I've got Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T1G UP Posted October 7, 2007 Share Posted October 7, 2007 Thats good lewis, like the A frame upside down idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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