Jump to content

Disced handbrake


Tonk

Recommended Posts

been workin on a disced handbrake conversion for my truck, as usual Jon White is working with me :)

haven't quite finished yet but bits so far

stripped off handbrake drum and back plate and bolted on caliper mounting bracket

ydbn1l.jpg

disc is mounted to output flange, output flange has been machined down to suit

ydbn1n.jpg

this is the caliper, slightly modified. have extended the arm which locates the cable coming in and theres also an air connection been added which will adjust the caliper when the pads wear a bit

ydbn1m.jpg

just need to pop it all on the back of the gearbox now and connect on the 90 handbrake and cable, should have that finished this afternoon so i can test it out

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It warms the cockles of my heart to see novel applications of copper tubing :lol:

That look like a car type tyre valve on the end - so you pump air into that tube - please explain how it works.

Are you able to weigh the parts so see if it is lighter than the drum hand brake? :rolleyes:

... and neat job BTW.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it is copper brake pipe ;)

the idea is that when the caliper needs adjusting all i have to do is plug an air line on the connector and pump the piston out with air, this will rachet the piston out and adjust it, there obviously no valve in the air connection cos it doesn't need to stay pressurized.

errrrr weigh the parts, hmmmmmmm dont know if i can be bothered, its goin on if its heavier anyway :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does it really matter how much it weighs??? I mean - who cares??? The series handbrake is sooooo carp I couldnt care if it weighed 10 times more so long as it actually works!

Air line fitting is to allow the caliper to be adjusted up as the pads wear as theres no hydraulic connection to it.

Jon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i think there wont be alot of difference in the weight one way or another, dont think it will really make that much difference to the weight of my truck anyway :blink:

As Jon says, it will be nice to have a handbrake u can trust to work and wont wear out as quickly or just sieze up after its been left for a week after drivin in the mud

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the added benifit of seeing it in the flesh, actaully I have the second one in my boot (all bids PM please don't want Jon to know I am selling it, I'll just say it was stolen one night ;) )....

And its

1.) nicely made

2.) simple

3.) WTF does the weight have to do with it ?

Frankly it (disc claiper and plate) prob weight less than the drum shoes mud and backplate, but I am at a loss as to why the weight matters ?...its lathe made so in balance (well enough for a piggin LR), confused and puzzled don't even come into it..

I'd fit it in a nano second to the 90, if it fitted.

Tonk rightly deserves praise for simple well made and clever thought driven improvements, ...

rather than some weird "Wots its weight" irrelevent Q ?????, sorry but as someone who tries to use me brain and do innovative things I if I were Tonk might just be a bit P O with this comment ?...as a Mod maybe he has to behave more, than me ??

Nige

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3.) WTF does the weight have to do with it ?

Frankly it (disc claiper and plate) prob weight less than the drum shoes mud and backplate, but I am at a loss as to why the weight matters ?...its lathe made so in balance (well enough for a piggin LR), confused and puzzled don't even come into it..

rather than some weird "Wots its weight" irrelevent Q ?????, sorry but as someone who tries to use me brain and do innovative things I if I were Tonk might just be a bit P O with this comment ?...as a Mod maybe he has to behave more, than me ??

Nige

I cast out a fat juicy worm and wait for someone to bite...... :lol:

did you not see the :rolleyes: in the original post?

... and why is asking a question comparing their wight to drum, relevant or otherwise, interpreted as an attack on Tonk's design and fabrication abilities?!?!?!?!. Confused and puzzled here as well. :angry:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

HFH,

is that a compliment in there somewhere? :P:)

fitted it all up at the weekend, all bolted up as expected, adjusts up easy with the air line connected and works a treat.

quick pic of it all fitted, hard to see much cos the caliper is mounted between the t/box and chassis so it cant get knocked about

ydestj.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i didn't want to take the sticker off, 2 reasons, they might have skimped on paint and not painted under there, resulting in rust :o

and secondly, i didn't want to throw the balance of the prop out, i've got the mud covering just right now :rolleyes::lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Competition! :)

Looks good!

I presume you machined off the ring of six bolts which normally holds the drum in place?

I like the idea of putting the caliper at the 3 o'clock position - my biggest issue with a series version was how close the disk sits to the back of the gearbox.

I have a fully mechanical caliper - of a much simpler design to the defender model (and a fraction of the price!) which would be well suited to this orientation. I got the caliper originally for a rear disk conversion for quads. With this arrangement, a laser cut back plate with a total of three folds to mount the caliper and cable would be feasible.

SeriesCaliper.jpg

As you can see it is not small.

The first version of the defender disk handbrake used a very similar caliper to yours:

Handbrake-m2.jpeg

Which came off a Volvo 740GLE (although someone has said it's off something else?). The reason I changed it was the self adjust mechanism filled up with mud and corroded to the point of being destined for the bin! Your caliper looks in much better condition to start with - so may have better seals and last much longer. Mine did give sterling service for 2 years though.

What arrangement have you used for the cable? Have you replaced the original lever with a Defender or RR type, or adapted the original mechanical linkage to accept a cable?

Si

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Caliper is rover 800 rear, monted on a caliper plate which is flat, this puts the caliper between the t/box and chassis so it cant get damaged.

disc is flat and mounted to back of out put flange which has had its outer flange machined off with the six bol;t holes in which hold the drum on.

cable and lever is standard 90 stuff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

not meant as competition, if u had a kit ready then i probably would've just bought one, i was just too impatient to wait :rolleyes:

Making your own is more satisfying though! It's just difficult if you don't have the facilities to actually do it, which is where a bolt-on kit comes in.

If you are using a defender lever, did you just add a big spreader plate inside the seat box or come up with a way of mounting it off the chassis?

Si

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i just mounted it on a plate on the front of the seatbox, well sturdy.

i had the disc laser profiled cos i didn't have any 10mm plate, but machined the mounting plate up on the lathe and mill, cheaper that way until i know it all works.

laser profiling is the way to go though imo, unfortuneately i dont have one of them

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i just mounted it on a plate on the front of the seatbox, well sturdy.

i had the disc laser profiled cos i didn't have any 10mm plate, but machined the mounting plate up on the lathe and mill, cheaper that way until i know it all works.

laser profiling is the way to go though imo, unfortuneately i dont have one of them

I'm very fond of laser cutting! It's good value for production runs, but expensive for prototyping.

At the moment, I'm building a CNC plasma table (like a big XY plotter) which should make it possible to produce accurate prototypes - just with a bit more grinding & finishing required. Should be a lot less effort than milling shapes - although I'm starting to wonder if the huge amount of milling required to make the bearing blocks & stepper mounts for the lead-screws is worth it! Suppose I could sub it out to a CNC shop!

Si

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy