More questions from the rear rad V8 saga.

[Boothy]

Boothy again,

Following advice which was greatfully recieved from you guys, I've had a great big eblag auction clearout to generate some funds for more bits,

Pugwash, Absolutely belting advice in the direction of Summit Racing, and hey presto 1x Chevy V8 racing alloy radiator arrived 2 days later, it's a joy to look at even if it doesn't do the job.

1x16" Pacet Pro fan sucking 3999 cubic metres/hour at only 13amps, this thing will move the Landy without the engine running and still room for a pair of Spal 10" suckers to, but I seriously don't think they will be required, the fans got some serious lungs on it.

Another 100amp alternator and a seperate 3rd Optima battery (only this ones a red top) on it's own independant system well away from the winch yellow tops, but I have put a large 250amp switch that can, if all goes belly up, connect the engine (red battery), to the yellow batteries (winch supply) for starting purposes.

Looks like I'm going to use 1.5" dairy pipe (milking parlour stainless) and run it down the outside of the chassis rails at the top, this might nessetate drilling through the the outrigger and migging a tube in that the cooling pipe will have to pass through because every thing looks a bit tight yet.

Finding the right tube is a right pain in the side, I was going to use hydraulic hose but got warned of because sometimes some black rubbery stuff comes off when it gets hot, which will kinda defeat the object if I coat the rad from the inside in something.

Had a look at Silicone but its far to expensive and only comes in 1metre lenghts which will mean loads of joints.

The other beauty of a V8 is an exhuast pipe running down the inside of both chassis rails which doesn't help.

Tonight's star question is "flow rate", will the standard water pump cope or not? and if not, does anybody recommend a electric pump and if so where from? and do you grind of the impellers from the standard one, or, cut out the shaft and alloy weld it up, if that's the case I will have to re-think me new second alternator pulley, again.

I relealise I will have to keep pipework as smooth as possible and limit corners etc.

I've also put (in the vast space behind the grill that I now find myself with) a new oil cooler bolted to the auto box cooler using the 12" fan that used to be on the front rad, so all in all it should run considerably cooler at times of grunt.

Thanks again for your much valued advice,

I've still got an eblag stockpile of bits if things to sell if it don't work right, its like a bank account the missus doesn't know about (I hope), it was for a new set of Simex'es so it looks like I'll be on the Insa special tracks for a while.

Cheers boys

Boothy

[FridgeFreezer]

I know a few people with rear mounted rads running stock water pumps with no problems, I'd suck it and see. I have an electric water pump that I was gonna fit but the stock one hasn't gone wrong yet so it' still in it's box BTW don't buy the EWP controller, it's about £90 overpriced compared to the components inside it.

[TOR4x4]

BTW don't buy the EWP controller, it's about £90 overpriced compared to the components inside it.

after running with and without an ewp it is definately worth more than the sum of it's parts, i wouldn't even consider not running one.

grind off the impellor, remove thermostat and all should be good

[Steve Hiatt]

I took my controller off, I probably have it lying about somewhere if you want it.

Flow is likely to be higher from the engine driven pump than an EWP so if you're short of funds don't bother for now.

[tinker]

i run a standard rrc radiator in the back, mounted high on the cage running the standard water pump, seems fine but air is the problem, its a bitch to bleed....but i am considering fitting a pump i got off a volvo b10 bus!, the reason being is sometimes my fans come on when the engine is hot but switched off, with the possible outcome of draining my battery, so i figure if i pump the water around for a while after the engine swithches off, my fans wont run as long...

[gav-]

tinker, where is the header/expansion tank mounted, whilst i didnt have any problems with bleeding and only saw the odd high temp guage with a header tank system, i realised that i needed a circulatory header tank so used a mg rover expansion tank and have plumbed the bottom outlet to the bottom of the rad and the expansion pipe from the rad into top of the expansion bottle. piece of tiddle to bleed now.

i have run the standard water pump (god knows its condition) and no issues wit flow.

this is on the bowler running 3.5v8 and 2 15" cav push through fans. with one temp controlled

[tinker]

header tank is top left of cage, above the radiator. will try the circulator system though.

ta

[nickm]

only had a quick read, but what have you done with the pipe that comes from

the inlet manifold, when i had my rad in the rear if fitted a thumb bleed vent

(from a plumber's shop) found it a lot quicker to bleed the system also had 1 fitted

between the heater loop 15mm T piece with the vent soldered to the top,

just remember to remove the rubber seal b4 soldering

these with a small piece of 15mm tube between

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.js...59&id=19155

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.js...21&id=28307

[Boothy]

Boothy here,

There will be no more questions regarding rear radiators from myself anymore because, to put it simply, we failed.

After spending last Saturday mounting the giant fan on the new Summit racing alloy rad, followed by mounting it onto the rear cage downrights, using rivnuts onto the top of my alloy chequerplate tank guard (tank is an alloy foam filled Escort M1/2 boot 12 gallon rally tank), standing back and thinking that's absolutely bl**dy perfect, all wired up and blowing like Billy Ho, and commenting that if the engine fails the fan will push it along like a florida swamp raft, all was now set to do the pipework.

Lots of time spent debating and aquiring the pipe, which in the end was food grade stainless steel "parlour pipe", used by dairies for transporting milk about, 3 x 10foot lengths of 1.5"pipe and an assortment of silicon hoses for the corners etc plus a box full of odds and sods hoses from allsorts, just in case.

Last job load the motor onto the trailer and 35 miles later arrive at John Sales (Saleys) workshop just outside Wigan, because he's jot a four post ramp which makes everything so much easier, especially when your older.

After 4 hours, loads of headscratching and many brews at Saleys we abondoned any hope of routing pipework to rear due to Boothys excellent hybrid build in the firstplace, (thats Boothys opinion, Saleys not commenting).

What I did was to keep the ex-Rangy chassis as tight as possible to the body and bulkhead etc and also with a full cage and 6mm outriggers sitting low on the chassis this makes the outside route of running nigh on impossible, the chassis itself is only 86" so its tight in other respects and its got a King cab (standard truck with a 8" extension and home made rear bulkhead), so the outside is out of the question, as is on top of the chassis rails, there's no room down the middle either, and defenitly no room through the inside, so we gave up.

The obvious answer is on the next chassis, build, plan and route pipe work at outset and not as an afterthought, before any placement of outriggers and bulkheads etc and life will be made so much easier.

So its 2x19 row coolers on the back, one for engine oil (in aeroquip), and one for the autobox, and then see how hot things are getting before deciding wether or not to put a sucker fan on them.

And the big sexy Chevy radiator has been grafted into the front, which in turn meant spacing the wings out by 5mm to make room and then lifting the grill panel up by 1" to accomodate it, which in turn leaves a nice gap at the sides between the wing and the bonnet which can only help cooling, the big fan fits snuggly on the inside and I will try it in a while to see if I've been successfull.

I will try and post some photo's if i can, but no winch cables are on at the moment and I'm still waiting for a hose to be delivered.

Thanks again for all your advice, but I'm now feel a failure and in need of comfort and confidence boosting again from her indoors that brews.

Cheers guys.

Boothy

[gav-]

i found that i had to follow the lines of the gearbox/transfer box to do mine, the s/s pipes sits above the tubular chassis rails. it was extra work but worth it.