bishbosh Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 I am looking to get a drill press, primarily for birdmouthing tube for a roll cage, but I am sure it will drill some holes along the way too. So what should I look for? Traditional chuck or tapered? Number of speeds? Power? Not looking to spend a fortune, so that will certainly limit the field, but there are still plenty of options around the £100 mark. So what is the panel's advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 I've used a Sealey one for years, for woodwork and metalwork. Hopefully I'll have one of my own soon (Birthday Monday, Pillar drill is on the list!), which'll be used for the above as well as tube, not much good as feedback for you right now though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 having a 16mm chuck is an advantage to look out for but not compulsory, mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 Morse taper spindle and a chuck with a morse taper shank, so that you can use both parallel shank drills & taper shank drills. With drill bits generally anything over 1/2" diameter will be taper shank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 If you're using it for bird-mouthing, I presume you are going to use a hole saw? If so, you need a drill with real slow speeds. I used to have a Clarke drill press - which went down to pretty low speeds, had a 16mm Morse taper chuck and it was pretty good value. The down side was that I managed to twist the shaft between the drive pulley and chuck (I think whilst using a big hole saw) which left the shaft bent and the end of the drill bit tracing little circles about 5mm in diameter. It was toast! There was no way to remove the shaft that I could see. I replaced it with a used one made by Meddings from G&M Tools Although it is a bit fast for hole saws, it has provided sterling service for many years now. They do occasionally come up with a 'back gear' which reduces the quill speed - worth looking out for. The Meddings only has a 13mm chuck with no taper - but it's not been a big problem. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted January 5, 2008 Author Share Posted January 5, 2008 How slow is slow Simon? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciderman Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 Bish I recon for a 45mm hole saw youd want to be doing about 300rpm and loads of oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
istruggle2gate11 Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 Another Factor to consider is Rigidity - A weak setup can cause all sorts of frustrations! Good Base, Good Upright (column / pillar), Good Table, good clamps, good vice etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 150rpm would be better for a 45mm saw. Cutting speed for mild steel is 80ft/min, so for spindle speed, 4 x 80 divided by the diameter in inches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 personaly i'd look out for a secondhand boxford/union, we had one at college that did something silly like 25rpm set up for countersinking, it was a joy to use. Have a clarke one in the workshop and its naff, belt alllllllways slips and have bent every handle and broken the monkey metal casting they screw wedge into, so now you have to use a nice big screwdriver Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 Just sounds like you're abusing it Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Train Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 I would avoid cheap new as well. I bought a Clark pillar drill as I needed one for a job and although it is still in use it is rough and inaccurate. I would go for a secondhand one from an established workshop that is closing. It would have been bought because it was good not because it was cheap. I do scour Ebay for such things and have come up with a few bargains. Even a 3ph one would be ok as they usually sell for a little less and a replacement 1ph motor could then be used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 Just sounds like you're abusing it Will me? abuse things? surley not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 Startrite or Meddings.. we have one of each in the workshop.. both superb. Meddings drills can be found secondhand on ebay... better than a cheapie new chinese toy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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