Mad Pad Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 However - because the pistons are going to be too tight in the bores I will be using a very high/expensive oil initially. My thinking being that cheap is cheap, and this might not be a good idea. A high quality oil will de a better job I think.Les. I recall being told not to do this on a brand new rebuild. The reason being that a very good quality oil will prevent the tapered edges of the new rings wearing flat in the way they're designed to. Paddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 Most of the larger L/R parts suppliers sell items made by different companies - you should ask what make or state which make you want. Genuine parts are quite cheap from these companies (sometimes half of what the main dealer would charge you). If you have to order from abroad, then to save future bother it might be worth going for genuine parts. Wheel/swivel pin bearings are made by the likes of FAG, Timken, etc, so perhaps you could source those locally. Oil seals are a nightmare as there are so many different manufacturers and some are awful. Again - considering the damage a failed seal can give you (mess, contamination of other parts, having to take it all apart again), then again buying genuine would be wise. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridaT Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 Use a special running in oil with a freshly rebuilt engine for the first 500 miles to ensure piston rings bed in correctly and prevent bore glaze. Then change oil and filter and use a good quality engine oil. For the first 500 miles or so - do not leave the engine idling, use variable speeds. If anyone knows of a good shop go on, tell me about it Engine parts as used in our own production and shipping worldwide available. http://www.turner-engineering.co.uk/html/landroverparts.html FridaT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 Thanks Frida - That answers that then Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muzaz Posted March 5, 2008 Author Share Posted March 5, 2008 Hi me again... a couple of months ago had bought a complete set of gaskets for the whole engine including the head gasket... today was having a look at the new gasket and after comparing it to the old one I noticed I was slightly different... to start with the old one had 3 missing holes (on the new one they are visible as trangular holes between each cylinder)... the new one has got 2 smaller holes at each top ends instead of big holes( for the tappets and pushrod) Is it ok like this or? Dont know what brand is it...only saw made in UK on the box! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars L Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 Can't say anything about your question, but your new gasket is thinner than the old one. Is that planned or a mistake? It has only one small hole at the edge, your old one has three. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 You need to fit a new 3 hole gasket, to allow for the piston protrusion, a thinner one will allow the piston to possibly contact the valves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muzaz Posted March 5, 2008 Author Share Posted March 5, 2008 Should be ok I think...measured with a feeler gauge before I removed the pistons and had a reading of 25 thou... when I took the pistons off I cleaned and polished them...took some material off their faces, the part no on their face can hardly be seen... I'd guess i should have sanded 2 thou, so at 23 thou I'm at a one hole gasket no? Having said that, when I reassemble everything I'll measure again, pity I dont have a DTI and mag stand... so I'll have to do with the feelers. What gets me is that the old gasket was blanking three holes, I'm not sure if those are water or oil, prob water... do you see what I mean? chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars L Posted March 5, 2008 Share Posted March 5, 2008 Well, you seem to know what you're doing. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't a mistake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muzaz Posted March 10, 2008 Author Share Posted March 10, 2008 Next inline was the turbo...looked a bit dirty from the inside, lots of black oily grime, so I thought I might as well clean it! The bearings look fine to me, no endfloat at all and the wheel turns freely...think it should be servicable So I started by taking the downpipe at turbine side... well two nuts came off with a moderate amount of cursing and sweat... the third and last one refused to come off, it just didnt want to know of giving up, breaking a spanner in the process (yes I did slide the spanner in a 5ft long pipe for added leverage)... so I had to use my old friends, the hammer and chisel... 5min later the last nut surrendered! Next was the big circlip on the compressor housing,lacking a proper circlip pliers, that was a bi%## to take off...but I managed. Wont bother taking the turbine housing off, it will become black anyway! The question I have is, can I flush the bearing compartment with something or it could damage the bearings? Cleaning the compressor with scotchbrite and some degreaser, not too difficult a job The compressor housing was too dirty for my liking After cleaning the compressor...looks better now...well who cares!! Housing much much better now!! Not going to install the housing at this moment in time... will give it the correct orientation once the engine is bolted on the vehicle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 I suppose you can flush the bearings out with something that won't do any damage - such as diesel or maybe carb cleaner/brake cleaner. You would have to spin the engine on the starter to pre-lube the bearing though. Anyway - my turbo is blingier than your turbo Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 Is that a 200 Tdi turbo Les ? My 300 has the 3 stud flange fitting for the exhaust, yours looks like the 200 defender type with a slip joint. Curious Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muzaz Posted March 10, 2008 Author Share Posted March 10, 2008 WOW!! Good job! I now have proof that I'm not nuts as my girlfriend often remarks... Well I'm not finished with it yet Les... so by the time I put it beck again it might become blinger than yours! Anyway, so diesel or some light solvent shouldnt do any harm... I dont know if there are any rubber seals internal to it which might get damaged if I used a degreaser...thats why I'm asking... After cleaning the bearing I'll fill it up with oil and turn it a bit by hand...should be fine I think, but as a precaution before I fire it up (whenever that day comes!) I'll do it like you said Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 I cheated a teensy bit - that one is off a TD engine Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 WOW! a turbocharged workbench..... Les doesn't charge by the hour, but by the second! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muzaz Posted March 10, 2008 Author Share Posted March 10, 2008 So this is it...gave it a coating with a rust converter... dont feel like polishing the manifold and exhaust housing, it will rust anyway! Any recomended paint for the manifold? I mean one which does not go off as quickly as you put it on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 You would have to use a specialist paint, such as Sperex VHT, which can stand the temperature. That's what I used and I also baked it in the oven as it's supposed to get a better finish/resistance to heat. You put the parts in the oven on a low setting, and every 30-minutes or so turn it up a bit until you eventually have the oven on maximum. Interesting smell - if you like that sort of thing Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muzaz Posted March 10, 2008 Author Share Posted March 10, 2008 You would have to use a specialist paint, such as Sperex VHT, which can stand the temperature. That's what I used and I also baked it in the oven as it's supposed to get a better finish/resistance to heat. You put the parts in the oven on a low setting, and every 30-minutes or so turn it up a bit until you eventually have the oven on maximum.Interesting smell - if you like that sort of thing Les Hmm, will see if I can source that kind of paint locally...I have my doubts tho... I had used Plasti-Kote Hot paint, resists up to 1500'F it said.... you apply it today...and its gone yesterday! The oven thingy is a bit dangerous, might find myself in the oven if caught Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muzaz Posted May 21, 2008 Author Share Posted May 21, 2008 So after a couple of months decided to do some more work on this never ending project... took the crank at the machine shop to have the keyway for the pulleyand tvdamper welded and recut as it was damaged, and took the head for refacing (if necessary) the guy at the shop noted that the exhaust valves had some play in the valve guide so I decided to replace all of them... so I ordered 8 original guides. I received the guides yesterday and noted that the valves wont go through the valve guide... is this normal, I mean should they be reamed after installation or they should fit ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted May 21, 2008 Share Posted May 21, 2008 IIRC the guides should be reamed after installation to the correct isize for the valves Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muzaz Posted May 21, 2008 Author Share Posted May 21, 2008 Hmm that means more work and more trouble! Didnt find any mention of this on the manual... Any idea of the size for the reamer or should I measure the valve and get one accordingly? Hopefully I'll borrow one of the correct size from work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 21, 2008 Share Posted May 21, 2008 The engineers will measure the valve stem diameter and ream the guides out to fit. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muzaz Posted May 21, 2008 Author Share Posted May 21, 2008 But he's not exactely an engineer Les...how shall I put it, he's a work mate, but he's got a whole lot of tools and machinery to make him one... guess he knows his business, when I was there he was replacing bronze guides on a cosworth head, dont know if he used reamers tho I left before he finished. Ok then, I'll have a word with him, just wanted to make sure I have the right parts...thanks to all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted May 22, 2008 Share Posted May 22, 2008 Play safe and take it to the marsa guy, i did several heads at him and they all turned out fine, he knows his onions as its his daily job. Grem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muzaz Posted May 22, 2008 Author Share Posted May 22, 2008 Didint know he did heads as well, last time I was there I only saw engine blocks...loads of them! I'll check with the other guy first, I know him and I know that if he cant do it he wont...to be honest I did a fuss bec I thought I got the wrong ones, but the part no should be correct, the invoice says LGJ100880 200/300TDI Valve Guide Brand New (genuine) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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