yellowmitch Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 Hello everyone. I am an Avid land rover man and have owned about!! I want to undertake my biggest challenge yet. Build a 90 from the ground up, the way I WANT!! It needs to be indestructable and last years, so I have decided the following and wish to know am I right or wrong 88 or before 90 (classic insurance) Galv Chassis LT77S box (would love R380, can it be done?) 200Tdi Disco engine (more BHP, no electronics) Galv Bulkhead (where do I get?) TD5 Dash (easily fitted and bought?) Range Rover classic front seats Tip up rear seats Cubby box MG Inca Yellow paint job with black air flaps, black roof and black bonnet Galv body cappings Galv rock sliders Galv rear step Discovery 300Tdi ES alloys (anthracite centers) and 235/70 tyres County sliding rear windows Full roof lining (where to buy?) Hard top (might need to buy one) Chequer plated rear floor Black Chequer plate bonnet and wing tops Heated front Windscreen Remote Central Locking Good Stereo! Towbar and twin electrics Roof rack and 4 lamps A bar and lamps Halogen headlights XS lamp upgrade Dump valve Oil Pressure gauge Hi-lift jack On Board Compressor TD5 Rear door with wiper and heated screen NAS / freelander style hi level brake light (where to get) Chunky black disco 3 style grilles and headlight surrounds Heavy rubber matting 2" lift kit with gas shocks Range rover classic rear axle so as I have rear discs (I have one from an 87 V8 EFi. Will this do?) Heated door mirrors Ceramic Heater 2 tanks (1 with veggie oil, one with diesel(easy??)) PAS (easy retrofit if it does not have??) Can't think of anything else but if anyone can help I want to start buying the stuff and get the proj underwway I think I need a 90 with a 2.5D or a 2.5TD as my base vehicle. Is this correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 Sounds like a good vehicle base, however: LT77S box (would love R380, can it be done?) yes, easily. 200Tdi Disco engine (more BHP, no electronics) with a slight tweek, the defender engine has the same power, although they're thin on the ground and also getting old. i'd go for a later 300Tdi, still no electronics. Dump valve why? Ceramic Heater ceramic hob to go with that? why a ceramic heater? a lot of the other stuff you'll pick up as you go along the way.... stuff like wanting the freelander 3rd brake light, well, you can get a 3rd light fitted to the rear glass on defender rear doors, so you shouldn't need to faff around trying to make the freelander one fit. galv bulkhead... you'd be better buying a "new" plain black one and getting it blasted then dipped. the chassis, well that depends if you can afford to buy a brand new (richards/designa) one or just get a good second hand one blasted and dipped. disc braked rear axle, as long as your one has the dampers facing the same way it'll fit fine. some early rangie ones had opposing facing dampers. Twin tanks.... you can fit a Td5 rear tank into a non Td5 90 (although you may have to change the rear crossmember to the thinner type, so get that done before you get it galvanised), so you'd have the original 12 odd gallon side tank and the 15 gallon rear tank. rest of it, as i say, you'll pick up along the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alantd Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 88 or before 90 (classic insurance)... You haven't mentioned the suspension of your new creation. If you're going for coils then a 90 chassis would be a better starting point IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 You haven't mentioned the suspension of your new creation. If you're going for coils then a 90 chassis would be a better starting point IMHO. and possibly wouldn't come under the wrath of the SVA inspector.... an 88" chassis converted to coils certainly would. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSG Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 Following on from above if you want a coil sprung 90 just go for it - a Series converted to coils isn't worth messing around with these days just for classic insurance. The other point to consider is the SVA test which you will need if you are building a Landrover from parts of a number of different vehicles and ages. If it was me (and I've often thought about the same thing) I'd start with a complete 90 with a rotten chassis as the base vehicle and buy a new galvanised chassis to do the rebuild with. I assume when you say TD5 rear door you mean the one piece rear door (not all TD5s had this) and similarly by TD5 dash I assume you mean post 2002. None of these will be a problem and can be picked up and incorporated easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowmitch Posted February 21, 2008 Author Share Posted February 21, 2008 Hi guys. I did mention suspension (2" lift) Prob go SuperGaz and yellow springs and those nice yellow turrets! And when I say 88 D90 I mean 1988 or before, hence over 20 years old!!! See now? Is the idea for the rear crossmember hard to do? I am looking at a vehicle already ona galv chassis so therefore I am wondering is it easy to install a rear tank (or another side tank) without doctoring the cross member? How do I do all the pipework / tank switch etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowmitch Posted February 21, 2008 Author Share Posted February 21, 2008 I intend it to still be 1 90 on a pre 1988 chassis plate. Only change as far as Mr mot man will know will be 200Tdi. Post 2002 door and dash is what I want. Need a set of Electric window front doors too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milemarker Type S Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 I would say that an earlyish 90 with a screwed chassis would be the best base vehicle- cheap and most sensible route in relation to SVA and registration etc. That would sort the PAS and the majority of the other bits you want are then just bolt on jobs. I would suggest that fitting a second standard under seat fuel tank on the left should also be considered- might be easier than fitting a rear one. D4X4 did this on their 110 trayback build- all the info is on their website about the mounts required- I think you also need to trim a small amount off the back of the front left radius arm mount to clear the extra tank (this is shown on their site as well). I would try to get a defender 200tdi as well as the turbo pipework is far far easier and neater- would also leave you with a vehicle worth more IMHO than one with a discovery 200tdi. Not sure that anyone supplies galv bulkheads so will have to buy one and get it done yourself- TD5 bulkheads are cheapest and will fit with minor mods (lots of info on other threads about mods required before getting it galved). Not even going to start on the dump valve...why??? Best of luck Shrek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gruntus Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 Hi Mitch, Do have you a timescale in mind and suitable lockup/garage? Don't sicken yourself, plan the basics and then possily expand your wish list once its on the road? Otherwise you can easily add 6months/year (or more ) onto your project. HTH. Cheers G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowmitch Posted February 21, 2008 Author Share Posted February 21, 2008 I've done a teardown and rebuild on an 88" county in under a year before, and that was with trying to re-use loads of parts. This one may not be so bad as that! I can get a disco 200Tdi lump quite easily and that's why I wanted to use that. It also has a slightly higher BHP which I thought was good. The reason I want to go from the ground up is because I want my custom colour scheme and want it to pretty much last forever. It will only cover about 3000 miles per year and I have no intention of selling it if I build it! It will be my little boat towing showpiece!! Mitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 LT77S box (would love R380, can it be done?) Yes, easily. Galv Bulkhead (where do I get?) You start with a normal bulkhead and take it to the galvanisers Chequer plated rear floor That'll be nice on the knees Black Chequer plate bonnet and wing tops Each to their own I guess. Dump valve These don't actually work on TDi's you know, have a search. NAS / freelander style hi level brake light (where to get) Anywhere that sells Land Rover parts at a guess... Chunky black disco 3 style grilles and headlight surrounds Are you sure? You mean LRX style ones? if so, then quite frankly you're ruining what could be a very smart vehicle. Heavy rubber matting Oooh, suit you sir 2" lift kit with gas shocks On a "Boat towing showpiece"? I'd want standard ride height for stability and to avoid all the faffing about a lift can cause. Ceramic Heater You mean those little 12v ones? If so you may just as well use bottled hamster farts, they're about as useful. If you've got heated windows and mirrors that's the demisting taken care of, stick to the engine heater or a diesel-fired Eberspacher for instant toastyness. I think I need a 90 with a 2.5D or a 2.5TD as my base vehicle. Is this correct? If it's just for towing and posing I'd go for a 110 - better ride, better towing, more space, cheaper to buy as a base vehicle, stronger back axle that's easily upgraded to discs if it doesn't already have them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowmitch Posted February 21, 2008 Author Share Posted February 21, 2008 I had thought about a 110, but the turning circle put me off for driving it in the town. I have a Range Rover classic already and think that is big enough. Chequer plate floor will not be hard on the knees as it will have the heavy rubber over it LRX grilles I thought would look good with the black and yellow. Maybe not? Ceramic heater is bad then. Fair enough. I did not know this SuperGaz and standard springs it is then How do I do the R380 thing then? would craddocks or someone have the box and where do I put the oil cooler? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 A 110's turning circle isn't that much different really, once you're used to driving it you adjust to suit, I've never found myself wishing the 109 was shorter. If it's just for towing & carrying a 110 is going to make more sense for the reasons above. It's down to you, obviously this is your dream and practical considerations are not always the most important things when building your dream car so don't let people put you off doing what you really want unless it's a blindingly good reason not to do it. For the R380 I'd phone Ashcrofts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige90 Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 Dump valveThese don't actually work on TDi's you know, have a search. Fridge is right, dump valves open to atmosphere as you shut off the throttle to prevent the turbo stalling with the pressure build up against the throttle butterfy. But, as diesels don't have a butterfly there's nowt to stall the turbo. All a dump valve will do on a diesel is give the "pssst" noise, which I actually find quite annoying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowmitch Posted February 21, 2008 Author Share Posted February 21, 2008 I must actually admit you see that I LOVE the 'psst' noise (hence why I want it) Ps Nige, you seem to already be driving my dream!! I don't think my overall ideas are too far off the mark do you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiall Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 I must actually admit you see that I LOVE the 'psst' noise (hence why I want it)Ps Nige, you seem to already be driving my dream!! I don't think my overall ideas are too far off the mark do you? pulling away from the traffic lights hmmm , dunka dunka dunka pssssttt dunka dunka not for me lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowmitch Posted February 21, 2008 Author Share Posted February 21, 2008 I got this idea because I LOVE the NAS 90!! I have just been offered a 1995 300tdi defender 90 with discs all round locally for a good price. It needs 2 wings, possibly some doors and the back xmember replaced. I can buy it for around £1000 and could use this as my basis. Should I? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 that would make for a cracking base. bang goes the classic insurance though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 Seems a decent bet, although suspiciously cheap. Classic insurance is over-rated, you're just as likely to get a discount for being in a club, running limited mileage, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowmitch Posted February 21, 2008 Author Share Posted February 21, 2008 Well, it's coming from a Landy dealer whom I know VERY well It's coming to me trade and is filthy you see! Hence why it is cheap P.s. I love this - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2003-LAND-ROVER-DEFE...1QQcmdZViewItem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve 90 Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 Ashcroft have the short bell housing R380 which is a straight swap for a 90 (pre 300tdi) on he shelf! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milemarker Type S Posted February 21, 2008 Share Posted February 21, 2008 If it is from a source you trust then snap it up for a grand- the parts alone would be worth far more than that... Shrek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowmitch Posted February 22, 2008 Author Share Posted February 22, 2008 OK. Going to look at the 300 tomorrow. It's a 1995, so I hope that means no cat, no ecu and no egr. If the chassis is savable (i.e. a crossmember) then I will fix this just to get it on the road. I will then tidy the bodywork as it is (dark blue) do my interior mods, change the wheels, sort the mechanicals etc. I will see how long it will live like that and buy the parts like the chassis, doors etc as I go along. In an ideal world it would be yellow and galvanised within approx one year!! p.s. How many types of bulkhead are there? is there just early and TD5? or is there more than 2? Maybe the bulkhead that is in it would be worth Galving? Who knows? It's a one owner from new vehicle so thats good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nas90 Posted February 22, 2008 Share Posted February 22, 2008 OK.Going to look at the 300 tomorrow. It's a 1995, so I hope that means no cat, no ecu and no egr. If the chassis is savable (i.e. a crossmember) then I will fix this just to get it on the road. I will then tidy the bodywork as it is (dark blue) do my interior mods, change the wheels, sort the mechanicals etc. I will see how long it will live like that and buy the parts like the chassis, doors etc as I go along. In an ideal world it would be yellow and galvanised within approx one year!! p.s. How many types of bulkhead are there? is there just early and TD5? or is there more than 2? Maybe the bulkhead that is in it would be worth Galving? Who knows? It's a one owner from new vehicle so thats good My nas cd rom tells me that the high level brake light is AMR3941 complete. When LR say complete it might just be the tubular steel frame lamp and fitting. There are some door fittings to take the cable that do not look part of the "complete kit" Suggest you ask your local friendly dealer and if complete is less than complete shout me This is for a soft-top which is utter rubbish because you are wanting a hard-top? Back in a few minutes.................. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nas90 Posted February 22, 2008 Share Posted February 22, 2008 My nas cd rom tells me that the high level brake light is AMR3941 complete.When LR say complete it might just be the tubular steel frame lamp and fitting. There are some door fittings to take the cable that do not look part of the "complete kit" Suggest you ask your local friendly dealer and if complete is less than complete shout me This is for a soft-top which is utter rubbish because you are wanting a hard-top? Back in a few minutes.................. High level 90 Station Wagon, full height rear door with glass = AMR1285 but not sure how complete is complete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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