Fish13 Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 Hi Gents, Am halfway (almost!) getting through my camshaft swap and need to know the best way to remove the crank pulley? Engine is still in the car ('88 classic EFi) so just put in gear and undo? I've got the correct sized socket but wanted to ask opinion before giving it a go! Cheers, Hugo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 Hi, Here are my experiences in which I teid most of the suggested methods... The crank bolt was set to 280 ft-lbs at the factory 17 years ago and was expected to be a struggle... So it was first gear low box with the hand brake hard on and then: First try was with the rattle-gun and impact socket.. Nothing Next a breaker-bar on it with a copper mallet.. Nothing :angry: Next a two foot extension on the breaker-bar - happily inched the Rover along the drive... but move the bolt? Nah. :angry: :angry: Having read about people who place the breaker bar on the OS chassis and then let rip with the starter so that the bar has a good swing before it hits the NS chassis, I sat and pondered this option for an hour or so... Didn't fancy having a breaker bar and socket flying off into the scenery, so finally discounted it. Despairing now - back to the impact driver (apparently has a break-away torque of 500 ft-lbs IIRC) and this time I just ran it until the compressor cut in, gave it a rest and then when the compressor stopped again I repeated the cycle. After about eight or ten such cycles it came away! Lesson? Give the rattler a chance to do it's job! Hope this helps... TwoSheds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish13 Posted March 3, 2008 Author Share Posted March 3, 2008 Ha Ha! Oh dear!! Cheers Two Sheds! Looks like this maybe a fun job then? I've also been told to try the 'let rip with the starter motor' method and didn't want to give that a go either! Hmm, will try breaker bar and car in gear to see how far I get......watch the veins in my neck dance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hairyone Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 I've used the breaker bar and starter method, but with one subtle difference ... I place the end of the 2ft breaker underneath of the o/s chassis rail and for added safety I usually tie it there with some rope so at most it has a 0.5-1" swing before it hits the chassis. On both occasions 2 or 3 flicks of the starter have done it. T.B.H. the hardest bit was persauding the socket to stay on the bolt not fall down an crack me on the forehead whilst getting it into position. The starter's no use when you come to do it up though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted March 3, 2008 Share Posted March 3, 2008 when i did my camshaft job i removed two of the outer ring of bolts holding the pulleys together and used two long hardened steel rods that were long enough to go in the holes and reach the front cross member. The trick is to lock the pulley solid before clouting it. I also pin punched the head of the pulley bolt a few times for good measure. It took a few attempts and bent the long bolts but worked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discojmz Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 nice long breaker against the chassis and use the starter motor, isnt scary, works every time. as far as im concerned, no other practical method Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 The crank bolt was set to 280 ft-lbs at the factory 17 years ago and was expected to be a struggle... TwoSheds The diesel might be, but the V8 that fish has (early EFI) is 140 - 160 ft/lbs .................... the later engines 4L & 4.6L are 270nM which is a shade under 200ft/lbs. It it is an auto, then remove the starter motor and jam the ring gear with a piece of suitable angle (or a wide blade screwdriver) to lock the engine............. if it is a manual, then put it in 5th gear hi range, hand brake on, and undo the bolt. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted March 4, 2008 Share Posted March 4, 2008 The diesel might be, but the V8 that fish has (early EFI) is 140 - 160 ft/lbs .................... the later engines 4L & 4.6L are 270nM which is a shade under 200ft/lbs.<cut&shut> Ian I stand corrected - although mine, being a 1990 3.9 V8 is quoted in the official LR manual at 271Nm. I don't know where I got 280ftlbs from - hope I didn't mislead anyone... TwoSheds p.s. It was still bl@@dy tight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish13 Posted March 5, 2008 Author Share Posted March 5, 2008 I've got the sump off, can I jam the crank with a piece of wood covered in something soft like a t-shirt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 6, 2008 Share Posted March 6, 2008 A bit of wood between the crank web and block side is ok, but don't put any strain on the bottom lip of the block (where the sump bolts on). The metal is thin at that point and is the weakest. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish13 Posted March 6, 2008 Author Share Posted March 6, 2008 All done! Dropped the sump and used a soft bit of wood wrapped in a t-shirt to block the crank and hey presto! Thanks for ideas guys, some I never would have thought of! Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teslo Posted March 6, 2008 Share Posted March 6, 2008 I have automatic transmission on my RRC with torque converter. I blocked flywheel with screw driver inserted to one of free holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muttleyd Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 Just removed the pulley on a v8 auto today. Was expecting my usual fight whenever I lay a spanner on it. But today Clarke impact gun, low range and first and the bolt rattled out no problem. Sykes pickavant pulley holder was useful as well. It's great when it goes well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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