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ok so i have just finished changing my swivel oil seals so had to drain most of the oil( about quater of a pint from each?). i have done some searching as to what oil it is and have found something called EP90?? if it is this then where is it best to get from, would it be availible from a motorist discount shop?

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something called EP90?? if it is this then where is it best to get from, would it be availible from a motorist discount shop?

Yep, EP 90 goes in your swivels, axles and transfer box.

More commonly found as EP80/90 or Gear Oil. Available from your local motor factor or Halfords.

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Ive used that one shot grease in my swivels. Get very little leakage from the seals & their not in the best condition.Oil simply weaped out. Cost about fiver a bottle & 2 reqd. Try paddocks or craddocks for best prices. Supplied by britpart. Will admit the idea of having common oils in swivels & axles does away with cross contamination issues.

Adrian

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So that is a good reason to not use grease in the swivels. I don't, and the EP90 does tend to cross. I just reckon the EP90 is better for the CV joints. As mine have now done 262k kms with no problems. maybe I am right. Though if I had grease in there they would most likely also be ok. Very hard to prove either way, except if you have nothing in there the CVs will fail quickly, that we know. Grease or oil is ok, air is not :P

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Just thought I would add this because I too was confused at one time. (not that long ago) "EP90 means "extreme pressure 90" 90 is just the oil weight, it is a gear oil, many brands have a lot of types. 75w90 90w140 etc, like motor oil. Gl-4 and Gl-5 seem to be the standards that you want to get. The stuff stinks something awful too.

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GL5 is fine for the diffs, transfer box and swivels. GL5 oil can damage bronze or brass bits in the gearboxes, mainly the synchro rings. This is why the recommended oil for the R380 box is MTF94, which is officially an 80W GL4 gear oil.

The viscosity ratings for engine and gear oils are completely different. An engine oil of the same rating as a gear oil is much thicker.

I used to fill aircraft engines with sae 100 oil, and we had an electrically-heated bowser so that it could be pumped. The stuff was like glue!

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One shot grease... make yer own... 50% LM (or MS is fine) grease, 50% EP90 (or EPx 80/90) - warm it up a bit in a bath of warm water before putting it into the swivel, job done and it doesn't matter if the axle oil dilutes the 'one shot' ;)

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I am afraid I get very boring when it comes to people using 1-shot grease to prevent leaks.

As a product I am sure it is very good and following a recent rebuild of my swivels I now use it in my 90 (can't be much more of a supporter than that can I?) but to use it to cover up a leak is not a good thing.

If oil is leaking out then you have a leak end of story, at best a failed seal but at worse a damaged swivel. Using grease may stop the leak (after all, if there is no oil in the swivel it can't leak out can it?) but it won't stop muck getting in, especially when off-road and a mixture of grease, water & dirt will not do the internals a lot of good. Instead of replacing a seal that costs only a couple of £ you may (in time) end up having to prematurely replace the CV joint, swivel bearings etc.

To get back to the initial post, yes EP90 is the stuff and it is widely available from all the places already mentioned.

I know you don't need much at this moment in time but I usually buy it in 5L containers from a motor-factors as it is cheaper to buy like that than in the 500ML containers and you use the same stuff in the axles & transfer-box so you will always have a use for it.

I know some people buy it in 25L containers as it is even cheaper but unless you are leaking the stuff like the Torrey Canyon (in which case why not fix the leaks?) the average owner would find that is enough to last a lifetime LR ownership.

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One shot grease... make yer own... 50% LM (or MS is fine) grease, 50% EP90 (or EPx 80/90) - warm it up a bit in a bath of warm water before putting it into the swivel, job done and it doesn't matter if the axle oil dilutes the 'one shot' ;)

But that stuff is not thixotropic like the real thing :blink:

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I am afraid I get very boring when it comes to people using 1-shot grease to prevent leaks.

As a product I am sure it is very good and following a recent rebuild of my swivels I now use it in my 90 (can't be much more of a supporter than that can I?) but to use it to cover up a leak is not a good thing.

If oil is leaking out then you have a leak end of story, at best a failed seal but at worse a damaged swivel. Using grease may stop the leak (after all, if there is no oil in the swivel it can't leak out can it?) but it won't stop muck getting in, especially when off-road and a mixture of grease, water & dirt will not do the internals a lot of good. Instead of replacing a seal that costs only a couple of £ you may (in time) end up having to prematurely replace the CV joint, swivel bearings etc.

To get back to the initial post, yes EP90 is the stuff and it is widely available from all the places already mentioned.

I know you don't need much at this moment in time but I usually buy it in 5L containers from a motor-factors as it is cheaper to buy like that than in the 500ML containers and you use the same stuff in the axles & transfer-box so you will always have a use for it.

I know some people buy it in 25L containers as it is even cheaper but unless you are leaking the stuff like the Torrey Canyon (in which case why not fix the leaks?) the average owner would find that is enough to last a lifetime LR ownership.

With regards your comments.. Yes it was a short cut to mask a problem. I had an MOT to get thru & not enough time or money to replace the swivels etc. The swivels were pitted but not so bad as to fail an MOT. Oil loss was not excessive but was evident around the brake disc shround thingys.I had a spare axle sitting in the garage but again time was a major factor. Without getting into a slanging match of tit for tats, Its all to easy to critisize people suggestions to remedies but without knowing the full story behind the reason for doing so can be wrong to pass judgement.

A point worth mentioning, is that after using grease to masked a problem.It has become evident that if grease does mask such a problem,Therefore is it advisable to continue using the grease on what is considered to be an axle without leaks & no known faults internally.

I know for certain that I wont be using grease on the new axle that Im in the process of fitting & will stick with the common fluids.

I think fortunately for myself that I have learnt the easy way by having a knackered axle to "test drive" using grease in that I now know that ep90 is the better option & hasnt cost me any failure in the process of using grease.

Just hope somebody else will benefit from these comments

Adrian

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