series 3 Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 Ive starting to get frustrated with my goddamn landy, every time I fix something I notice at least three things that need fixed, painted or tightened. So ive decided to strip it down and completely rebuild it so I can enjoy it without fear of something going bang or falling off while its puttering along. I am thinking about buying a galvanised chassis so I would never have to worry about rust. What Im wondering is the end result worth the workload, hassle and the cost? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ser3 J Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 What Im wondering is the end result worth the workload, hassle and the cost? YES A galv chassis is a great idea! For reasonably little cost you get rid of the biggest rusty bit for many years. This will make towing/recovery more safe than a rusty chassis. Things to consider - the chassis wont be the only cost... think iceberg!! Also, think long-game as unfortunately you will never get the cost of the chassis back - especially if you pay someone to fit it! All that said - i honestly think its the best thing you can do if you intend to keep your truck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 Built a 2a with a gen lr chassis that I had galvinised, (you could not buy non gen or galv back then) only hassle was retapping threaded holes , and reaming out spring bush holes . built it with V8 hyd winch , h/s diffs and od , twin tanks, 1 ton brakes all in 2 months The end result was excellent ( back then) 1980 ish HTSH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill B Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 I dont see the point in a Galv chassis. My S3 is 27 years old and when I bought it it still had the original factory paint on the chassis. It needed some welding. I figure if you bought a standard chassis and waxoyled it it'd last a damn site longer than 27 years. I just dont see how you'd recoup the costs or see the benefits of a Galv chassis unless you lived another 40 years. /my 2 cents Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CR88 Posted March 24, 2008 Share Posted March 24, 2008 I dont see the point in a Galv chassis. yes, you have a point, but if you want a job "well done" you will invest in a galv. chassis. I did it to my chassis, and I want to drive it for the next 40 years and in a galv bulkhead as well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
series 3 Posted March 25, 2008 Author Share Posted March 25, 2008 yes, you have a point, but if you want a job "well done" you will invest in a galv. chassis. I did it to my chassis, and I want to drive it for the next 40 years and in a galv bulkhead as well... I nver knew you could get galvanised bulkheads . that would definetly be something worth getting cause I ve replaced footwells before and that would deal with that permanently. Out of curiousity where did you buy your chassis from? ive heard Richards chassis are the ones to get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 25, 2008 Share Posted March 25, 2008 Some standard chassis do last, but then a galv one is only a few quid more than a non-galv one so why not be 100% sure you're never going to have to patch it, weld bits on, etc. for the life of the vehicle? Good Series are going up in value, in years time the galv chassis could pay for itself in value too. Galv bulkhead is a very good idea too, that would sort out the two biggest rust problems you're likely to experience on a LR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill B Posted March 25, 2008 Share Posted March 25, 2008 Aye, Galvy BH is something I'd really go for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CR88 Posted March 25, 2008 Share Posted March 25, 2008 I nver knew you could get galvanised bulkheads . that would definetly be something worth getting cause I ve replaced footwells before and that would deal with that permanently. Out of curiousity where did you buy your chassis from? ive heard Richards chassis are the ones to get. I think you can buy a new bulkhead for a Series, but you could expect very nice prices :s Mine as a wrap, went directly to scrap, and I bought one in good shape, clean it all and galv it. Not only that all the steel body parts have suffered the same treatment, not that expensive but very laborious... Nice look at end Paddock is fine, but try designa chassis Here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sotal Posted March 25, 2008 Share Posted March 25, 2008 I just dont see how you'd recoup the costs or see the benefits of a Galv chassis unless you lived another 40 years. I hope I live another 40 years a lot of people on here have more than 40 years left in them! On a side not a friend had a 109 rebuilt on a standard new chassis, it was zinc primed, then painted with hammerrite, he was moaning the other day because now 3 years later and he's not even bothering to take it for it's MOT until he's welded up the chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted March 25, 2008 Share Posted March 25, 2008 I think a lot of people forget about the inside of the chassis. I'm not convinced that galvanising covers all the inside surfaces so I will be Waxoyling mine inside, even though it is galvanised. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4.6v8lwt Posted March 25, 2008 Share Posted March 25, 2008 Get it galvanised, mine came from Marslands and has been on for nearly 10 years, no sign of any corrosion, no worries about the mot. The vehicle is used daily in all weathers outside all the time. Do the job right and do it once. Even if you do not keep it for ever, it will hold its value and be a lot more saleable in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Labradors Posted March 25, 2008 Share Posted March 25, 2008 I think a lot of people forget about the inside of the chassis. I'm not convinced that galvanising covers all the inside surfaces so I will be Waxoyling mine inside, even though it is galvanised. rtbarton, They may be better done now but when I restored my Series 3 in the late 1990`s I definately agree with you. I borrowed an endoscope (video camera + light on a long flexible tube)from a friend in a motorsport competition workshop and viewed galvanised chassis at two suppliers, the inside galvanising was at best spasmodic. In view of this evidence gathering I restored my old chassis and gave it 3 coats of Waxoyl on the inside,boiled linseed oil & red oxide primed on the outside finnishing off with 2 coats of smooth black hammerite. Now ten years later the chassis shows not a hint of rust inside or out even around the outer rear cross member ! Having said the above I wish I had done a better job on the bulkhead as I have since had to repair both sides just below the bottom door hinge. Bulkhead galvanising - a brilliant idea ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david1701 Posted March 26, 2008 Share Posted March 26, 2008 now i woulda thought that the inside would be galvanised, cos they don't paint the chassis they dip it in hot zinc, how bizzre that it didn't cover the inside, i spose if youu lowered it wrong you could get air bubbles that would stop the galv sticking David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted March 27, 2008 Share Posted March 27, 2008 Or it wasnt properly chemically clean inside before dipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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