dantd5 Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 Hi Fellows.... I got this twisty movement on my td5 110 99 model and making the effort to change the drop arm.. The problem is that it is simply impossible to get the drop arm out.. I just could not believe how those...%&? words came outa-ma-mauwth( outofmymouth).. Anyway I am also using a tool to pull it out but to no avail... I have a pic on here.. Any one been into this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonb Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 Hi Fellows.... I got this twisty movement on my td5 110 99 model and making the effort to change the drop arm.. The problem is that it is simply impossible to get the drop arm out.. I just could not believe how those...%&? words came outa-ma-mauwth( outofmymouth).. Anyway I am also using a tool to pull it out but to no avail... I have a pic on here.. Any one been into this? Hmm they are f**ing tight. I had to angle grind mine off - arm was scrap anyway- long story...Ideally you need a big puller - local dealer may lend you theirs. Others have used brute force or driven a short distance at low speed ( on a private road) with the nut loose to pop off the arm...obvious health warning here.... The ball joint by the way can be changed in situ without removing the arm. Its on here somewhere how to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 I have a long chrome vanadium bar that I use specifically for this purpose. I put it down through teh engine bay onto the lugs that are either side of the drop arm where it fits onto the box, then belt each lug in turn - using a lump hammer (club hammer). After a few goes it usually comes off. An alternative is to take the box off and do the same thing on the ground. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted March 31, 2008 Author Share Posted March 31, 2008 I got it Les.. that was cool..... I will give it a try tomorrow... Thanks for the tip.....I better fight it like a Zulu worrior... with your Chrome... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 The one on my old Tdi 90 never did come off. It broke several pullers, got driven for 10s of 000s of miles with the nut loose, had the (faeces) beaten out of it, got attacked with the blowtorch, nothing. It went in the scrap with the old box after I destroyed both in a vain attempt to remove it. I did manage to change the joint twice in-situ though. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted March 31, 2008 Author Share Posted March 31, 2008 The one on my old Tdi 90 never did come off. It broke several pullers, got driven for 10s of 000s of miles with the nut loose, had the (faeces) beaten out of it, got attacked with the blowtorch, nothing. It went in the scrap with the old box after I destroyed both in a vain attempt to remove it. I did manage to change the joint twice in-situ though.Chris Grinding my teeth now..... .Well I will give it a try then.. The plan is to armour myself to the teeth..... thanks for the tips.. Will tell you how it went... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 I had to do mine once. The trick we used was to put the puller on the drop arm, tighten it up and then hit the bottom of the puller. This managed to shock it free. HTH Ivan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 I spent all Sunday trying to change the ball joint on the drop arm. Tried to get the arm off and didn't succeed. So went to do the ball joint in-situ. Went ok until trying to tap the new cup in. I can't get it all the way home. So now the arm needs to come off so I can try and press the cup in. No amount of beating and swearing will get the arm off. Also broke a standard puller. Have just ordered a hydraulic puller, so we'll see what that makes of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted April 1, 2008 Author Share Posted April 1, 2008 I had to do mine once. The trick we used was to put the puller on the drop arm, tighten it up and then hit the bottom of the puller. This managed to shock it free.HTH Ivan Owwwww.. getting the chills down my spines... I guess a solid hydraulic shock to it will help.. I can see they used locktight in addition... The safety measure here was overdone I guess... Tell me how it went with the Hydy puller.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted April 1, 2008 Author Share Posted April 1, 2008 I had to do mine once. The trick we used was to put the puller on the drop arm, tighten it up and then hit the bottom of the puller. This managed to shock it free.HTH Ivan Really?.. Was there enuf space to hit the lower part of the pullar arm? did you use a sledge hammer? And how hard did you hit?... Just curious.. Currently at work and still making plans to get the #¤!! thing off... Even though i have supported and resecured the chasis.. do not want to end up in bloodpool out of loosing the stand.Looking forward to taking pictures when it is out...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milemarker Type S Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 Ideally you need to get hold of one of the 2 leg hydraulic type pullers- Even then you will have to wind it up very tight and be ready for a very loud bang when it does let go... Your head really hurts when you bang it on the bottom of a Landrover- trust me Best of luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 Ideally you need to get hold of one of the 2 leg hydraulic type pullers- Even then you will have to wind it up very tight and be ready for a very loud bang when it does let go... Your head really hurts when you bang it on the bottom of a Landrover- trust me That's what I ordered. Also has 3 leg and bearing separator configurations. Was so impressed with the one I borrowed a while back that I decided to buy one as I'll always find a use for it on a LR. Not cheap mind. With a bit of luck I might have it by the weekend. Must remember to video the ensuing drama Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 Why do you need to take it off ................ just change the ball joint in situ. Its a fairly easy job that takes about 30mins.............. Here is a link to the tech archive ........... I think Les did this one .............http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14338 Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotian Posted April 1, 2008 Share Posted April 1, 2008 I agree. I changed mine in situ yesterday and it was really easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted April 3, 2008 Share Posted April 3, 2008 Why do you need to take it off ................ just change the ball joint in situ. Its a fairly easy job that takes about 30mins.............. As above, cup stucky, no goey inney. Anyway, I borrowed a pitman puller from my local mechanic, and it came off with a bit of a bang. Once off, I was able to press the cup fully home and got it all refitted last night Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted April 3, 2008 Author Share Posted April 3, 2008 As above, cup stucky, no goey inney. Anyway, I borrowed a pitman puller from my local mechanic, and it came off with a bit of a bang. Once off, I was able to press the cup fully home and got it all refitted last night Wow that was a PITMAN PULLER..... Owww ma Gawd!!!! I am actually planning to get off the whole box and renew the seals... But that was something.. I will find a workshop that can borrow me one...Thanks for the tips.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted April 6, 2008 Author Share Posted April 6, 2008 I finally got the Drop Arm out of place.. I took out the steering box.. A job I will never ever try doing.. Was a bit messy.. But Les adviced using a Chrome Bar which I "found" at an abandoned work site for some years ago... Now it is done... here are som pics.. I managed to break one of the Pullers... Those who adviced changing insitu must be real wise.... listen to them,,,,Anyway it is done.. Thanks to Les' Chrome BAr... Bang Bang Bang and it came Off in a jiffy... No sweat.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 After it ate 2 pullers I ended up having to use an extremely dangerous assortment of 3 crowbars and 3 jacks simultaneously to apply leverage to it while I belted it with my No.1 Abusing hammer, and it still took ages, did give up eventually though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted April 8, 2008 Author Share Posted April 8, 2008 I guess we better fix it insitu next time.... but currently car is in my garage undergoeing serious changes..... cool to get results ainit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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