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Can't fit jate rings to back because of tow bar strut


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I know, should have checked first but there we are.

Went to fit the new jate rings to the rear and found that the tow bar bracing strut is in the way.

any ideas on what to do here please? Can't fit them to the front because of the steering guard.

thanks.

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My 90 has another tubed hole about 6" further rearwards...

ive heard that you should use jate rings on the REAR of a defender for recovery as the chassis isnt strengthened like it is on disco/rrc. use the tow bar instead.

apparantly it is fine to use jate rings on the FRONT for recovery as it is strengthened there.

duno if theres any truth in that though, i think i read it on one of the other forums

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Did this to my 110's adjustable hitch bracing arms. had to shave a bit off & swap them from their original locations.so they would clear the fuel tank as fitting the rear jate rings pushed the arms in a bit, I've had some really heavy loads on the tow hitch since doing this about 12 years ago.never had any problems.

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sorry to hijack this thread. But is it ok to use just normal bolts from B&Q to fit a jate ring or are the ones you order from Paddock and the like stronger?

I looked at the bolts in B&Q and they were not stamped/forged with strength markings :o

Assume them to be made from chocolate grade steel.

I was going to take issue with them but considered it above the level of standard £$%^wit employed there.

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Drill another hole, fit a crush tube, and fit the Jate ring. I wouldn't use a B&Q bolt, I have a feeling that the original is high tensile (M8)

Les.

Please, Les,

How would you fit the crush tube,

I've got three to do for another job on my chassis.

mike

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I fitted mine ok by fitting them with the towing eye and towbar brace inside the jate ring, its a snug fit but means both the jate ring and the tow bar bracket are secure

well i hope so anyway!

I was worried about doing this in case the the force of recovery pulled the jate ring back and snapped/bent the tow strut.

/mad

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If you were to drill a hole through the chassis and then put a bolt through - it would tighten-up and distort/squash the sides of the chassis. If you tried to tighten the bolt enough not to do this, then there's a chance that the bolt may not be tight enough, or that the bolt will tear the chassis walls when it's put under any kind of strain. A crush tube prevents distortion and allows the bolt to be tightened correctly. It also effectively doubles the area strenghth where the bolt is fitted.

Les.

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  • 7 months later...

been looking to find that thread regarding crush tubes

has any one instaled them to the rear of a 300 galv chassis from marslands with the TD5 rear cross member the inside metal seems very thin, on the outside there are threaded holes there which i dont want to use for the nato hitch so want to install crush tubes

is it possible or is there threaded plate at the back strong enough??

i do have another plan but that is a big plan

dave

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