Jump to content

How the 4x4 works on Defender1997


Recommended Posts

:blink: Sory but I am a biginner in Defender 'life-style'

So..I tried to drive my Def. off road and I can not understand how this diferential's,gearbox+transferbox,low,hi,diff-lock-WORKS

with wich speed can I drive with diff-lock...and so on...

(I have the manual but it is not so EXPLANATORY)

Please help me to understand the way it must be DONE-Correctly

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its really simple. Here goes (somone else might be able to explain better but this is my way)

You have your normal gears (hi ratio/range) and then you have that little stick that does the diff lock and the Low ratio/range. When that little stick is fully back and right you are in normal High ratio for driving on the roads.

When you go off road you might want a little bit of extra grip. You should only put diff lock on when it is muddy or the ground is very loose. You put it into diff lock (in either high or low) by pushing the lever (the little one) to the left. When it is engaged a little orange light will come on on the dash. There is no mechanical sounding clunk or click so just be on the look out for the light on the dash.

As soon as you get back onto hard ground (dry grass, dirt road or tarmac) push the lever out of diff lock (to the right) and carry on normal driving.

The Diff lock on the Landrover is a centre diff lock. There are three diffs in a landrover. one in each axle and one in the gear box. When the lever is to the right (out of diff lock) the rear wheels turn independantly from the front. This is so that when you go round corners on the road you dont end up with the prop shafts being wound up and damage to the gear box. When you go round a corner the rear wheels take a slightly shorter route than the front wheels so they do less milage. When the diff lock is engaged both the front and the rear are forced to turn at the same speed meaning that when the rear want to turn fewer times somthing has to give in the middle (normally your UJs) .

You can engage diff lock while moving at any speed so long as you are on ground that will allow the wheels to turn (so even though the rear wheels are turning less than the front, they are slipping on mud so the props dont wind up.

We use this diff lock to negotiate difficult terrain. it will help stop the back end swinging out when you are driving on very sloppy mud and when you go up a steep hill. Also if you are trying to get over an obstical and either the front or the rear wheels loose grip... putting in diff lock will allow the other end wheels to turn even though one end has lost grip. Without diff lock the power from the engine will take the route of least resistance mening its possible to have two front, two rear or two from one side spinning and you are not going anywhere.

I hope I am explaining this ok. if not then please say and I or somone else will rephrase.

The other thing is the Low range. There are many different reasons to use and not to use in different situations. I'll let somone else take on that one as in amyn cases its a matter of opinion and also makes a difference what engine you are using. With a more powerful (bottom end torque) engine like a TDI you dont need to use it so much. When I had a 2.5 petrol in mine I had to use it as soon as I went off road or I would stall in the mud.

With low range you can engage it up to about 10mph.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just thought I would make you aware of an experience I had while using the diff lock. I engaged it, obviously innapropriately while driving in snow and broke a half shaft. Ironically I engaged it so I would not get stuck but when the half shaft broke I was truly stuck! I now understand the diff lock should only be used when traction is very seriously impaired.

MINESAPINT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was once trying to pull a lorry out of a hole on the side of the road. I was on the tarmac and my front wheels were spinning (but the rear were staying still) Stupidly I engaged the diff lock to stop the front wheels from spinning and it instantly broke a half shaft (the front right). I had to drive the next 3 months with 2 wheel drive all accross winter in Romania :(

Thinking about this and what minesapint said, the problem with having diff lock engaged on the road isnt with the props and UJs but it causes the half shafts to wind up. When you have axle wind you can get rid if it by either bumping the wheel off a kerb, driving onto soft enough ground or jacking it up. In all cases when the wheel is free to turn it will suddenly whip back to where it is meant to be and hopefully not have caused any damage. It is of course best not to ever have this situation happen in the first place.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It means theat when I drive normaly it is 4x4 all the time but the gearbox and differentials always find theat weel wich is easyer to rotate--so--sometimes the right-front weel is engaged,sometimes the rear-left weel and so on..

But when I put the little stick in diff-lock it means theat as rear and front weels are engaged at the same time(but with diffrent speed) and now the front and rear differential chose wich weel must work on each axle? Or?

In low range Is just another transmition ratio--MORE POWER to the weels and LESS speed. Or?

Question:

In diff lock position are the differential(rear and front) -Blokated(obstruct)????

Can I do so-Put in Diff LOCK-then-LOW or HI position?

Can I Put in Diff unlock-then-Low or Hi position?

And when the traction is 100% engaged (when al 4 weels simultaniously revolving(rotating))-?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just thought I would make you aware of an experience I had while using the diff lock. I engaged it, obviously innapropriately while driving in snow and broke a half shaft. Ironically I engaged it so I would not get stuck but when the half shaft broke I was truly stuck! I now understand the diff lock should only be used when traction is very seriously impaired.

MINESAPINT

this what has hepened with me esterday:

When I tryed to get on a hill with grass with normal( diff-unlock) I wasnt able to do theat,so,I put the diff lock and rised up this hill.When I stoped and put in diff unlock--the car didnt move!!!! :blink: ---I looked under the car and the propeller shaft was rotating but the car wont move :o (I get to home with diff lock ONLY)

Is my half shaft broken or..???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In low range Is just another transmition ratio--MORE POWER to the weels and LESS speed. Or?

Yes, low range is another set of transmission ratios.

n diff lock position are the differential(rear and front) -Blokated(obstruct)????

No, in diff lock only the centre differential is locked, so 50% power goes to the front axle and 50% to the rear axle. To lock the axle differentials you need to fit axle differential lockers like ARB or Detroit.

Can I do so-Put in Diff LOCK-then-LOW or HI position?

Yes you can but for a beginner it is best to stop the vehicle to change from high to low and back again.

Can I Put in Diff unlock-then-Low or Hi position?

Yes but if you need to be in low then you'll probably need diff lock anyway.

And when the traction is 100% engaged (when al 4 weels simultaniously revolving(rotating))-?

You can only get this if you have axle differential locks. Then you will get 25% to each wheel all the time.

Hope this helps

Mo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm afraid you have indeed broken a half shaft. Or possibly a CV-joint or differential.

Regarding the torque division often mentioned, in an open diff, the power is split 50/50, which means the axle or wheel with the least traction will determine the torque that can be applied.

With a difflock (either the central one or in an axle like an ARB), both shafts will be turning at the same speed and torque will be transmitted depending on traction, up to 100% on any one tyre. This obviously puts a lot more stress on halfshafts and other driveline components.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ebdesign

Without wanting to sound rude, it sounds as if you really need to get together with either an experienced off road driver and / or a suitable instructor who can run through the practicalities of the 4wd system in use on your vehicle. I've always found practical demonstration and experience to be far better than a set of written instructions.

There are plenty of "off road" driving schools advertised in the mags - or you could hook up with a local club (there's no location details in your profile, so I've no idea where you are...!)

Failing that, there are plenty of suitably experienced / qualified members on this forum who would no doubt jump at the chance of sharing their knowledge with you.

Bottom line - it's very easy to get it wrong and damage either your vehicle - as Scotian found - and as they say, a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing.

Matt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just to add to what has been said - if you are on a loose surface you can use diff-lock as the wheels can slip a bit and you won't break anything, I would say it's better to have diff-lock in early than leaving it until you are stuck. The lock helps to spread the load on the drivetrain more evenly, rather than one wheel spinning fast and then breaking a shaft. I have seen a few people break diffs because they were driving off-road with no difflock in.

You can use diff lock in Hi for example if you are driving fast on a gravel or mud road, or ice, to give better handling. As has been said, if you use it on a hard surface it will "wind up" and something will go BANG :o

Axle diff locks are available from several places; you can buy "normal" ones (like ARB or KAM) which lock 100% like the centre diff lock, or you can buy automatic ones such as TrueTrac / NoSpin / Quaife ATB which allow one wheel to spin at a different speed but not too much different. Many people like these, but they do need a wheel to have a little bit of grip to work properly, and they can cause issues going round corners if you put one in the front axle :o

The 100% lockers like ARB often require compressed air to work, which means more effort to fit them (and ARB's own compressor is £££).

If you fit axle diff locks you might want to fit stronger shafts & CV's as now all the power can go through one wheel rather than spinning away in the air :P

If you only fit one axle diff lock, the back is usually preferred as it helps with climbs and you do not need to uprate CV joints which can be expensive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy