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Suspention lift on a series 3


newbe

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Is there any way that you can lift a series 3 without getting a new chassis off a 90? i have quite big wheels on her and the rear quarter pannel keeps digging in and taking chunks out of my tyers. Any suggestions?

Thanks :P

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Here's erm longer shackles, home made in minuites....

Parabolic springs on and erm some of the tub chopped....

post-4890-1210720162_thumb.jpg

I was running parabolics and military shackles with 265/75/r16's on no probs....

Shackles would be quick, easy and cheap...?

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By the way, the rig looks fantastic. I don't know how the drive-train is going to cope with those tyres, but I have opened that phot three times now and it just looks super. Just please re-assure us that more thinking/engineering has gone into it than the "Monster Discovery"....

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What RPR said - if you're running tyres that big I hope you've got some uprated components in your drivetrain and I hope this is going to be better than just fitting the biggest penis extension tyres you can find to look cool kewl.

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What RPR said - if you're running tyres that big I hope you've got some uprated components in your drivetrain and I hope this is going to be better than just fitting the biggest penis extension tyres you can find to look cool kewl.

The disco isnt mine lol. Its from the same blokes that did the disco out of the new LRO mag. tyers were like 5 ft :blink:

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By the way, the rig looks fantastic. I don't know how the drive-train is going to cope with those tyres, but I have opened that phot three times now and it just looks super. Just please re-assure us that more thinking/engineering has gone into it than the "Monster Discovery"....

its not mine! lol its from the same company that did the disco 2 out of the new Lro mag. mine is the blue series 3

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Here's erm longer shackles, home made in minuites....

Parabolic springs on and erm some of the tub chopped....

post-4890-1210720162_thumb.jpg

I was running parabolics and military shackles with 265/75/r16's on no probs....

Shackles would be quick, easy and cheap...?

Yeah a few people have recomended bigger shackles. would you be so kinda in telling me the size of them?

how muck lift do parabolics give you?

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Guest noggy

parabolics dont give you a great deal of lift, they just allow a smoother ride/ better axle articulation,

you need extended shackles/ moved shackle mounts/ SPOA conversion

infact, its really VERY simple to achieve a lift on a series vehicle.

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parabolics dont give you a great deal of lift, they just allow a smoother ride/ better axle articulation,

you need extended shackles/ moved shackle mounts/ SPOA conversion

infact, its really VERY simple to achieve a lift on a series vehicle.

Whats an SPOA conversion? (trying not to sound thick)

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Okay - got it now. Sorry for the tangent but would love to have 6cyltdi come back and talk to us about the engineering behind the Series in that picture.

Newbe, can you tell us what your goal is for the suspension lift, i.e. how much lift and for what purpose? That will help us to provide the best advice. In general, my view is that anything more than the lift derived from longer shackles, aka "military shackles and available from the usuals: Paddacks, Craddocks etc., and parabolics is a bad idea (with the exception of going Spring Over Axle). If the goal is fitment of bigger tyres, and you have done the needful with reagrd to halfshafts, propshafts, power, gearing, etc., then much better to chop body and keep the CoG lower. Besides, after shackles and parabolics, to get any lift will mean more arched springs, which will be less flexible, and rather redneck booty-fab...

SOA is a different kettle of fish. When done well, it can be quite satisfying. It is rarely done well...

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Ok, ok guys.........

There are simca portal axles going on in the next week or so, i have no steering at the moment either as it was LHD and i have converted to RHD and fitted defender steering colum and PAS box for hydro assist steering gearbox and T box are series and running a Daihatsu 2.8 td with a few mods, project should be near done towards end of July......

For the lift, as above tell the requirements and we'll let you know..... Ex MOD shackles are longer and would provide some lift......

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That Daihatsu 2.8 is a nice engine. I'm off to Nova Scoatia this weekend with a chap who has one in his coild conversion SIII. He fiited a smallish intercooler from a Saab and feels it has had a substantial impact. Worth considering. I'd love to see some shots of the Simca portals. They are reasonably exotic and while there's a lot of natter out there about them, much of it seems uninformed.

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Just to hark back to the first post - fitting a chassis from a 90 doesn't gain you a lift, it gives you coil springs and makes you liable for the SVA test, not to mention ruining a Series <_< . These days it's easier and cheaper to just buy a 90. Defender front outer wings have a higher cut arch which will allow more travel without trimming.

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Just to hark back to the first post - fitting a chassis from a 90 doesn't gain you a lift, it gives you coil springs and makes you liable for the SVA test, not to mention ruining a Series <_< . These days it's easier and cheaper to just buy a 90. Defender front outer wings have a higher cut arch which will allow more travel without trimming.

Defenders have higher mounted engine and transmission,so no crossmembers hanging down like dogs danglies, so effectively they have better underbelly clearance for a given overall vehicle height.Similar mods can be done to series chassis and mechanicals but a stage one front axle housing that tilts the diff pinion up higher makes the conversion easier.

Rear wheel boxes on all swb LandRovers including 90's are too low to permit an appreciable increase rear axle articulation and can be cut and lifted 5'' or so in addition to enlarging the wheel openings.

Bill.

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Okay - got it now. Sorry for the tangent but would love to have 6cyltdi come back and talk to us about the engineering behind the Series in that picture.

Newbe, can you tell us what your goal is for the suspension lift, i.e. how much lift and for what purpose? That will help us to provide the best advice. In general, my view is that anything more than the lift derived from longer shackles, aka "military shackles and available from the usuals: Paddacks, Craddocks etc., and parabolics is a bad idea (with the exception of going Spring Over Axle). If the goal is fitment of bigger tyres, and you have done the needful with reagrd to halfshafts, propshafts, power, gearing, etc., then much better to chop body and keep the CoG lower. Besides, after shackles and parabolics, to get any lift will mean more arched springs, which will be less flexible, and rather redneck booty-fab...

SOA is a different kettle of fish. When done well, it can be quite satisfying. It is rarely done well...

From a suspention lift i would like to gain more articulation and a tad more ground clearance, but most of all get my wheels and tyers away from the wheel arch. the pannel is digging into my tyers and taking quite reasonable size chunks out of them. I dont want a huge lift just a couple of inches would (should) do the trick.

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Just to hark back to the first post - fitting a chassis from a 90 doesn't gain you a lift, it gives you coil springs and makes you liable for the SVA test, not to mention ruining a Series <_< . These days it's easier and cheaper to just buy a 90. Defender front outer wings have a higher cut arch which will allow more travel without trimming.

if i got a defender id have road tax to pay though. i was going to get one until i saw this series for sale. im not to bothered about the front, i have plenty of clearance its just the rear is chewing up my tyers. i really dont want to start cutting pannels though.

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Set of parabolics and a set of extended shackles is what i have on mine, had to put 90 arches on but im running 35 12.50 15 mud terrains and wheel spacers so needed to keep it legal(ish). Use the military long shackles at the front so you dont bind up the prop shaft uj and make some up for the rear out of good strong plate or bar i went another inch and a half @ the rear and have only small amounts of under arch scrubbing when at full articulation the fronts dont articulate half as well as the rear so rubbing in the arches isnt usually the issue but tyres rubbing springs on full lock can damage tyre sidewalls hence spacers or offset rims

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